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2012 SF1098S dropping out of gear?

6K views 26 replies 17 participants last post by  redtail 
#1 ·
Hello All,
Picked up my new SF last Thursday and took it out this weekend in the twisties to break her in. Was having a great time and was starting to get comfortable and did some high speed straights in 4th gear and while coming up to corner would let motor decel compression braking and right about the 4k rpm area she would pop out of gear leaving me to tackle corner with out power but motor was still running. As soon as I could lean her back upright I selected gear and off she would go. Now if I keep revs constant and not let decel she will do fine. I lost track of how many times she popped out and did it in all gears. She does not do this while I am riding around town. Love everything about this bike but I don't trust her right now. Have read post about false neutrals but I am not experiencing those. My dealer took her out and could not recreate my scenario. So frustrated out I went again and charged up straight let off throttle for corner and just about tip in point 4k she pops out leaving me again in a corner with no power. Good job I knew the road. I will go back to dealer this week as I am almost at 600 mile mark for first service. Any input or experiences much appreciated.
 
#7 ·
My Multi 1200 just got out of the shop after being in a month to fix the same issue. Mine was mostly dropping from 2nd into N, though all of the gears were kind of loose. The dealer ended up replacing both 2nd drive gears, the shift drum, all the shift forks, and some other stuff. I've got about 800mi on it since the fix and it's working great now. Good luck.
 
#13 ·
Dropping 2nd into Neutral



Dang, I wish I had read these posts sooner... I had the same thing happening for months and then just about lost it on a hairpin turn coming down Pikes Peak with my gal on the back!!! Can you say, change your shorts!?

My 1200S is still in the shop after a month and completely torn down with lots of promises to expedite the fix...

My question is: At what point does the Lemon Law kick in if there are so many 2012 bikes in the shop for the same issue? What is the repercussion for compensation for lost riding time (in prime season)???

Can the bike be trusted again?

What if something serious happened to me and my gal when this happened?

Seems hush hush and would like to hear from any others including Ducati service.

Thanks,
:mad:
 
#8 ·
Hello All,
Just wanted to report that my dealer took fantastic care of me and installed new shift drum and forks. After 29 hours labour from the shop I have put on 1900 miles and bikes has not skipped a beat. Love the power of this bike and just rails in the twisties. Just need some suspension tweaks but overall very pleased with machine and dealer.
 
#9 ·
Good news that your problem was fixed and you are happily riding your SF; but the fact you needed such major work done (as have others) on a brand new bike raises concerns over Ducati quality control. I hope Audi money working through Ducati's new Lamborghini overseers improves initial quality. I doubt the brand can continue to thrive if something isn't done to keep new owners out of the shop and on their bikes ...
 
#11 ·
I am still having my bike drop out of gear in 5th and 4th gears too. My dealer said its probably my lack of skill for riding, and not putting it into gear completely. So I politely told them to fuck off and I am going else where for service.

My bike is a 2010 1098F, and needless to say I've been riding kawi's for 10 years before this bike and never had this kind of problem.
 
#12 ·
Very sorry to read that you are having problems with the switchgear... There have not been many ( read - NO -complaints) on this forum regarding 4th or 5th gear issues... Hope you resolve your issue -and remain a Ducati member...
 
#14 ·
Well between getting my tank replaced and working my ass off, I have had no time to ride much this season. It probably was because of the lack of me getting the shifter adjusted right and soft top shoes I had on at the time...

(did get a 3rd gear power wheelie on my way to work the other day)


I did take it out over the past weekend, and it seems to be okay now, but it feels like the clutch isn't grabbing 100% like it should.... But it more sounds like the notorious flat spot/nut loss in at the 5000rpm mark.
 
#15 ·
When I first got my bike i had a false neutral going from 5th to 6th. The service guy said that I wasn't shifting hard enough. I always thought that no matter what there shouldn't be a neutral there anyways. Well after the first service it went away and hasn't happened since. Just thought I would log my complaint. 2010 SF.
 
#16 ·
There's no sticky on this one, but the 5th to 6th false neutral has been experienced by many of the earlier owners, including me. Mine seemed most apparent at the track, and was easily remedied by...believe it or not... adjusting the shift lever (down, in my case). I guess it allowed me to get a more positive, full throw shift movement. Easy fix. Never had a problem after that.
 
#18 ·
Definitely make sure your shifter position and your ability to get a good long throw into gear, is not the source of the problem. Had to do the same as FlyingQ a week or two after purchase and never a problem since (unless I screw up)
 
#20 · (Edited)
Correct, but also remember to try to keep the shift linkage itself at a tangent to the splined throw arm. If the shift linkage is incorrectly set, relative to the splined throw arms you will reduce the effectiveness of the shift action. You need to aim for a 90 degree angle between the linkage rod and both throw arms. This will make sure the force and throw is maximized and will provide the most positive shift action.

If you think you are suffering from lack of shifting force and not pushing the lever far enough to fully engage the next gear, start by recording the position the lever is currently in using a paper template or tape measure. Then remove it from the splined arm and rotate the shift lever down by lengthening the linkage rod adjustment screws and re attach the assembly. (Beware that on some bikes one end of the linkage rod may have a left hand thread, this allows you to lengthen or shorten the rod by rotating only the center shaft one way or the other). Proceed slowly and carefully so you don't f**k anything up.

If you run out of linkage rod adjustment you may need to remove both splined throw arms and if this is the case try to keep the angle between the linkage rod and arms similar at both ends and as close to tangential as possible.

Lots of stuff online about this sort of thing as well. For example:


Of course if you ever do this sort of thing, three things are very important: do not over tighten any threads, do not damage the splines and ALWAYS check these fasteners whenever you go for a ride to make sure they do not come loose. A TINY speck of removable thread locking compound is a good idea on the spline clamping bolts but don't use too much. Spending a few minutes looking over your bike before a ride is part and parcel of being involved in the whole experience and may turn out to be a life saver. We should always check our bikes before and during rides. Spend an hour at the beginning of a riding season with a set of wrenches checking as many fasteners as you possibly can. If you don't have a feel for nuts and bolts, use a torque wrench.
 
#22 ·
Correct, but also remember to try to keep the shift linkage itself at a tangent to the splined throw arm. If the shift linkage is incorrectly set, relative to the splined throw arms you will reduce the effectiveness of the shift action. You need to aim for a 90 degree angle between the linkage rod and both throw arms. This will make sure the force and throw is maximized and will provide the most positive shift action.

If you think you are suffering from lack of shifting force and not pushing the lever far enough to fully engage the next gear, start by recording the position the lever is currently in using a paper template or tape measure. Then remove it from the splined arm and rotate the shift lever down by lengthening the linkage rod adjustment screws and re attach the assembly. (Beware that on some bikes one end of the linkage rod may have a left hand thread, this allows you to lengthen or shorten the rod by rotating only the center shaft one way or the other). Proceed slowly and carefully so you don't f**k anything up.

If you run out of linkage rod adjustment you may need to remove both splined throw arms and if this is the case try to keep the angle between the linkage rod and arms similar at both ends and as close to tangential as possible.

Lots of stuff online about this sort of thing as well. For example:
Set Your Motorcycle Controls To Fit You - YouTube

Of course if you ever do this sort of thing, three things are very important: do not over tighten any threads, do not damage the splines and ALWAYS check these fasteners whenever you go for a ride to make sure they do not come loose. A TINY speck of removable thread locking compound is a good idea on the spline clamping bolts but don't use too much. Spending a few minutes looking over your bike before a ride is part and parcel of being involved in the whole experience and may turn out to be a life saver. We should always check our bikes before and during rides. Spend an hour at the beginning of a riding season with a set of wrenches checking as many fasteners as you possibly can. If you don't have a feel for nuts and bolts, use a torque wrench.
Good video, but on some bikes they have you tighten top clamp screw to spec on the levers, then tighten bottom. After all you do want them to bind.
 
#24 ·
I can't believe I haven't done this scenario since buying the bike in March of this year, but I just took my 2012 SFS out to try this. And if I take mine up to around ~9,500+ rpm and back off, staying in second gear, at around 4k or 5k it drops into neutral every time. (expletive deleted!) It does this in no other gear, in other words, no false neutrals, just drops out of second into neutral.

Question, I'm going to my dealer tomorrow, has anyone had this corrected and if so, was it the shift drum?

Thanks
 
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