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Discussion Starter #1
I got my bike back earlier this week. Smoothed things out and everything seems good. Install requires Y-ing into a few stock harnesses and two T-taps for TPS sensor and something else (speed sensor?). I'm not thrilled about the two t=taps but those factory plugs are not available for purchase and Bazzaz didn't want to make injection molds of these plugs due to costs. Bazzaz had a hard time finding a good location so the Z-fi unit is zip tied to the charcoal canister on the left side of the bike just above lower fairing and behind oil cooler.

O2 eliminators were used to tell ECM a steady AFR. Bazzaz unit then controls injector duty cycle at all RPM's. Their software is very simple to use and saving, uploading, and modifying maps looks real easy. It is ran in closed loop and although AFR stays constant (o2 eliminator), the ecm (stock) still adjusts for atmosphere/elevation.

Bazzaz unit has two maps (unplug a jumper harness for Map2...takes a few seconds), so I had them tune it for Arrow slip ons with and without baffles in. I believe the unit will come with stock map and slip on from Bazzaz.

I got this for free and also got a free dyno tune. But I would say the benefit of going this route is I can have it tuned by any reputable shop with the Bazzaz software which is free for download from their site by anyone. Reflashing my ecu was the route I would have went with had I not been the test bike for Bazzaz, but that would not have resulted in a tune specific for my bike and where I live.

Lastly, with the Z-fi it is much easier if I ever made any changes to my bike that warranted a re-tune (such as air filter or full system).

Here are the charts, I didn't care for the gain, but the bike feels smoother and I'll be putting more mileage on the bike soon to see how lower rpms behave in slow riding situations (ie school zone, parking lots). Considering how lean the bike was under 5k and rich everywhere else...I was surprised to see the stock power levels weren't too bad. I wonder if timing could have been adjusted if the tq curve could have been fuller especially between 5k-8k.

Sorry Photobucket is down so I attached images using the forum attachment
 

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I agree. That was the main reason I decided against using the Bazzaz or PC5. I just don't like the idea of hacking into my factory wiring harness with scotch locks. If Bazzaz is claiming it's to keep costs down I would pay $50 more for the unit to have all matching plugs rather then hacking into the factory harness. That would be $25 per plug. If I remember right there's two scotch locks.


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We use a posi-tap on this bike also for the TPS. These are less obtrusive that T-taps but are still not ideal. Some molds can cost upwards of $8000 and then you still have to purchase the connector. Unfortunately on low volume units this is a hard pill to swallow!! But like on the Multistrada we did mold the male half of that connector but we can use this on a car application we have and also on the Kawasaki 300x Jetski so in the long run it makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Well I certainly can understand there just isn't enough sales to offset the costs of the mold fees. Every establishment has to operate within the realistic confines of their business. I"m sure they could make molds left and right...but what are the long term affects if they can't sell enough to cover the costs of the molds. It is irresponsible not to assess the situation before making these investments. I personally didn't care about t-taps, I use them all the time for cars (alarms, homelink auto diming mirror, turbo timers, etc.) Two didn't bother me and I got this for free (including dyno tune) so I can't complain.

I did express to Bazzaz that a lot of owners will be against this t-tap approach and would probably rather go standalone and/or reflash instead. Regardless, the bike runs better than stock and the software was really surprisingly very easy to use, I'm happy with it and you won't be hearing any complaints about factory tune or rideability, or needing/wanting a 14T sprocket coming from me now :-D

The way I see it competition benefits consumers. I don't mind having more options to choose from...it is better than having no options. The only reason I would consider standalone is if I had a reputable tuner nearby who was familiar with the said ECM and if timing could be adjusted.

Do our bikes have variable cams? I wonder if standalone ecms can handle variable cam timing. How about ignition timing?

I wonder how the tq curve looks on the 848 superbike compared with our SF...I believe their cam over lap was more aggressive than our 11 degrees... like 40 something degrees?

-Ray
 

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I personally didn't care about t-taps, I use them all the time for cars (alarms, homelink auto diming mirror, turbo timers, etc.)
Besides the fact that they damage the wire, they are not too bad in an envorironment that is not exposed to the elements. They are a really bad idea on a motorcycle where corrosion will get into the copper wire and cause it to fail. On a throttle position sensor that means that you will be stranded somewhere searching for a problem that could be very difficult to diagnose.

If I were you I would solder and heat shrink that connection. Use the heat shrink tubing with the adhesive in it and it will last forever.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Besides the fact that they damage the wire, they are not too bad in an envorironment that is not exposed to the elements. They are a really bad idea on a motorcycle where corrosion will get into the copper wire and cause it to fail. On a throttle position sensor that means that you will be stranded somewhere searching for a problem that could be very difficult to diagnose.

If I were you I would solder and heat shrink that connection. Use the heat shrink tubing with the adhesive in it and it will last forever.
Thanks, I'll look into doing that. In L.A., there practically isn't a winter season :p I park in my garage and never ride in raining days (barely rains here). I don't wash my bike with a hose and I wipe it down after each ride or two. Corrosion won't be a problem for me. But I like your suggestion. If I decide to keep it I will do just that

-Ray
 

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I got my bike back earlier this week. Smoothed things out and everything seems good. Install requires Y-ing into a few stock harnesses and two T-taps for TPS sensor and something else (speed sensor?). I'm not thrilled about the two t=taps but those factory plugs are not available for purchase and Bazzaz didn't want to make injection molds of these plugs due to costs. Bazzaz had a hard time finding a good location so the Z-fi unit is zip tied to the charcoal canister on the left side of the bike just above lower fairing and behind oil cooler.

O2 eliminators were used to tell ECM a steady AFR. Bazzaz unit then controls injector duty cycle at all RPM's. Their software is very simple to use and saving, uploading, and modifying maps looks real easy. It is ran in closed loop and although AFR stays constant (o2 eliminator), the ecm (stock) still adjusts for atmosphere/elevation.

Bazzaz unit has two maps (unplug a jumper harness for Map2...takes a few seconds), so I had them tune it for Arrow slip ons with and without baffles in. I believe the unit will come with stock map and slip on from Bazzaz.

I got this for free and also got a free dyno tune. But I would say the benefit of going this route is I can have it tuned by any reputable shop with the Bazzaz software which is free for download from their site by anyone. Reflashing my ecu was the route I would have went with had I not been the test bike for Bazzaz, but that would not have resulted in a tune specific for my bike and where I live.

Lastly, with the Z-fi it is much easier if I ever made any changes to my bike that warranted a re-tune (such as air filter or full system).

Here are the charts, I didn't care for the gain, but the bike feels smoother and I'll be putting more mileage on the bike soon to see how lower rpms behave in slow riding situations (ie school zone, parking lots). Considering how lean the bike was under 5k and rich everywhere else...I was surprised to see the stock power levels weren't too bad. I wonder if timing could have been adjusted if the tq curve could have been fuller especially between 5k-8k.

Sorry Photobucket is down so I attached images using the forum attachment
Thank you so very much for the use of your beautiful bike. We are so excited to be able to offer this product.
 

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I recommend getting rid of the t-taps in a timely manner. They will not hold up over time. You can expect anywhere between a few months to a few years from them depending on weather conditions.

There are many alternatives. The simplest is to just splice and solder, but if you want to use a nice terminal here's one I recommend:

MSD Ignition 8183 - MSD Deutsch Connectors - Overview - SummitRacing.com

You can get those type of connectors from a variety of places other than summit, too. The brand is Deutsch, not MSD. MSD just packages the male/female parts together along with the terminals you need. You have to solder the wire to the terminals, then assemble the connector. It goes together very well and is designed for this type of environment. To splice, you would simply solder a jumper between the two terminals on one side of the connector. They can be disassembled and the terminals can be removed/replaced, too.
 
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