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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I thought I would try this group before I head to dealership. I have a 2012 s touring that will not accelerate to redline while in gear but will in neutral. Each gear I go up the max rpm I can get to decreases. The bike feels like it’s running on one cylinder. It shakes/hesitates when it stops accelerating. There is no error code displayed on dash. It starts just fine and does not pop/backfire during acceleration/deceleration. I have run chevron Techron through fuel, replaced spark plugs, replaced fuel filter, borrowed and tried from friend a working crankshaft sensor and working coils with no change. My exhaust valve is rusted in place but I wire tied it open. I took off the exhaust cover to ensure i understood which way is actually open. Air filter is clean, throttle bodies look clean. I only run highest grade gas that my local BP or Shell station has. I am about to take it to dealership so they can hook it up to computer. About a month ago I hit big pothole that blew out fork seal and replaced the fork seals/fluid. It doesn’t appear to get better or worse, just consistently soft. It will throw an error code if I unplug a sensor. Any ideas?
 

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Yeah the touring mode is speed limited at around 110ish sport mode is the only mode that will let you keep the rpms and the speed (150mph+). Your bike is fine. Touring mode if I remember correctly cuts the rpms off at 7k.

The bike shaking when you're not accelerating is likely a wheel balance issue or the forks are misaligned
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I will have to try it out tomorrow in sport mode. I don't think i can get anywhere near 110. I think the bike tops out around 75mph in its current state. Is the power reduction/restriction that much different between touring and sport? My touring mode is in 150 HP mode not the 100 HP. My friend also has a 2012 Multi S and his is like riding a wild animal. This thing feels dead. My 600 f4i has more pull than this thing. Something has to be off.
 

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You say it shows an error if you unplug a sensor wire...but what if you don't?

This sounds like a sensor problem to me- intake velocity or exhaust gas sensor. But that's a wild-ass guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
There are no error codes displayed. I only unplugged a sensor to see it the computer would actually produce an error code.
 

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Yeah the touring mode is speed limited at around 110ish sport mode is the only mode that will let you keep the rpms and the speed (150mph+). Your bike is fine. Touring mode if I remember correctly cuts the rpms off at 7k.
There is no RPM or speed limit in touring mode or any other riding modes for that matter.
 

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Can you swap out the coils? On old-school bikes, my next guess would be the spark advance (timing), followed by overheating coils. I'm about out of ideas-
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I borrowed a coil off my friend whose bike runs well. Using his coil in place of mine did not change anything. I have a general question. My exhaust valve is wire tied open because the valve is rusted in place. The servo motor also does not even try to open it or actuate when the bike is turned on. I would assume this should throw an error code which it does not. I bought the bike used from a dealer who didn't have much info on it. Any chance the ECU could have issues and that is why it is not showing an error code? Or is the ECU modified to not show the error code and some weird fueling maps were uploaded to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I ran Chevron Techron through it and 3 different tanks of different gas (shell high grade, bp high grade and exxon high grade). No change.
 

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If the exhaust valve is wired open, have you put a spring on the cable to fool it that it is operating? I believe you need to do this to fool the ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
There is no spring on the cable. That is why i think it is a modified or aftermarket ECU that has the servo turned off. It does not even try to open when you start the bike but there is not error code.
 

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I am sure this is a redundant question, but the exhaust valve spring should keep the butterfly valve open with no "wire". Just removing the cable prevents it from closing. The valve defaults open. Just thinking maybe the wire tying it "open" is actually closing the butterfly. Cheers and happy hunting.....
 

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Take a hard look at the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensors hoses. There are one sensor and hose for each cylinder, from the intake to the sensor. Some report cracked or split hoses. If so the cpu will adjust the fuel mixture to try to meet the map signal. If sucking air the afr will be wrong. Worth a look see, but will require removing the tank from hell. Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the idea. I will take a good look at it tomorrow. I have taken the tank off at least 5 times now trying different things. At first i was pissed but now it is almost relaxing.
 

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Thanks for the idea. I will take a good look at it tomorrow. I have taken the tank off at least 5 times now trying different things. At first i was pissed but now it is almost relaxing.
Have you had a chance to look into this further?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I checked the lines and there are no cracks in them. I am trying to schedule shop visit at dealership so they can run the computer on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Got it back from the dealer today. They said it was in limp mode due to issues with the exhaust valve. The mechanic lubed up the valve, cleared the errors and it is running perfect. I had wire tied it open previously and it would not run correctly. My computer would not produce an error code. Does the exhaust valve being open or closed change parameters in the ECU? I had read previously that people who had theirs frozen open had no issues other than an error code.
 
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