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Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to change the timing belts on my 2010 Evo. I have timing marks on the cam pullys(dot stamped into them) but none that I can find anywhere on the cases or timing belt covers. I have a mark on the crank pully and there is the timing "line" on the engine case. Has any one here replaced the belts on their evo? Is there something I missed? the manual I have is for '09 and older twinspark models and none of the timing marks it talks about exist at all except the mark by the crank pully on the engine case and the dots on the cam, and crank pullys them selves. I have searched every combination I can think of on here and google only to come up with nothing. Any help anyone can offer is greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Called Cacycleworks today and was informed on how to do the belt swap. easy but a little improvisation is necessary. tonight, new belts!
 

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You line the mark on the crank with the mark on the housing, then you take a marker and put your own marks on the belt cover in line with the marks on the cams, then you loosen the tensioners and remove the old belts. now you install the new belts being careful of the marks, and set your tensioners horizontal cylinder first, then rotate the mtor 90 dergrees to bring the verticle cylinder to tdc, and set its tension. turn engine over by hand several times to make sure no clearance issue with valves and piston etc. put sparkplugs back in and fire it up. listen for funny noises, shut down put covers on, put gear on go for ride.
 

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You line the mark on the crank with the mark on the housing, then you take a marker and put your own marks on the belt cover in line with the marks on the cams, then you loosen the tensioners and remove the old belts. now you install the new belts being careful of the marks, and set your tensioners horizontal cylinder first, then rotate the mtor 90 dergrees to bring the verticle cylinder to tdc, and set its tension. turn engine over by hand several times to make sure no clearance issue with valves and piston etc. put sparkplugs back in and fire it up. listen for funny noises, shut down put covers on, put gear on go for ride.
Tnx! :)
 

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I have fitted new belts to my 1100s. Each was individually tensioned to 110 Hz at TDC. I get variable higher readings when the belts are off TDC, - is this correct?


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not sure I didn't tune to freq. I'm still waiting on mic. to arrive. I adjusted to the allen wrench spec. Tight enough for a 5mm allen key to just barely slip between the idler pully and the belt, but a 6mm allen key will not fit at all. When my mic. arrives I will tune to tone of freq. What program are you using? I've heard of a couple different ones just curious which you are using.
 

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I use a programme called PitchPerfect Musical Instrument tuner ( PitchPerfect is one word). It is brilliant. Open it and just start plucking the belt, there's no set up, it displays the Hz crystal clear. The microphone I use cost £1.50 from eBay, nothing fancy just the simple type that came with most PCs in the 80s. Regarding my last post, I'm assuming you wouldn't be able to slide your Allen key between the belt and roller when the cams are not at TDC. Have fun.


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Q!

.... set your tensioners horizontal cylinder first, then rotate the mtor 90 dergrees to bring the verticle cylinder to tdc...QUOTE]

Are you saying that the flywheel or cam pulley should be rotated exactly 90 degrees to bring the vertical cyl to TDC?

Also, did you find that acheiving 110Mhz on the tuning of the belts required additional tensioning/loosening after you tensioned them using the 5/6mm allen key method?

thanks for the writeup. very helpful!
 
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