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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been riding my 848 almost every day in Florida. I moved to Maine in 2016, and have only ridden it a couple of times. I have a new battery, and kept it on a trickle charger at all times. I have now moved to NY, and went to start it, and it won't start. My 2011 Multi was treated the same and it starts and runs fine. The 848 started fine for me in 2017 the last time I rode it much.

1. Key is on, killswitch is in the run position
2. Horn works fine, lights work fine.
3. I have checked that the battery is holding a charge which it is, and it reads 12.4 volts on my volt meter
4. Display shows that I am in neutral...have taken it in and out of neutral several times to be sure it's truly in neutral
5. I turn the key to "on" , and hear the fuel pump whir.
6. I press the starter button and hear a click every time...nothing else.

I got frustrated once and kept pressing the start button on/off rapidly, and it tried firing once, but I let go of the button too quickly so it didn't start. I can't get it to do that again.

I have checked battery connections, and fuses, and they are fine. The battery holds a charge. The bike won't start even if I try jump starting it with my car.

I wonder if my sidestand switch is gone? Does anyone have a pin-out for the switch so I can try bypassing it? I have unplugged it, and replugged it several times, but unless I know the switch pinout, I don't know how to even test its functioning.
 

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Check for a loose cable somewhere ground possible, or replace battery it could have a bad cell, not having enough amps to turn the starter
 

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Check firstable the starter relay. The positive signal is from a fuse the negative grime the ecu.
The sensor you can test with a multimeter with sound check, is a simply contact between two pins.



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Fuel in the tank?
Do you know if fuel is making it out of the injectors down the intake manifold?
Bad starter maybe.
 

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Fuel in the tank?

Do you know if fuel is making it out of the injectors down the intake manifold?


But the engine must be turn without starting if was a fuel problem...
this is a electrical/mechanical start problem (ground, relay, starter motor, freewheel starter gear)



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12.4 volt is a too low reading. Your battery is probably checking out


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Agree except he said he tried jump starting so it would have started if it was the battery.

Try bump starting it.

And see if there's 12v on the starter post when you push the button, maybe just a bad contact in the starter.
 

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First off. Even though you may have checked battery voltage you haven’t done a load test, most likely because you won’t have a load tester. No big deal. A quick and dirty way to do this test is to bridge the two large terminals on the solenoid and see how quickly the motor turns over. Quick turnover indicates problems from the solenoid back to wiring harness BUT NOT THE BATTERY. Slow turnover points to bad earth, bad battery or dud starter motor. Dud battery can have a lot of resistance and jumpers sometimes won’t get the current through. Do these checks and get back to us.
 

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Have you tried with the clutch pulled in and the side-stand up??
Also, intact fuses are not necessarily carrying current. Give all your fuses a good wiggling to clear any light corrosion that may have occurred between fuse and holder.
Agreed that 12.4 is low but you'd think it would try to turn over.
Any errors on the dash??
Never done it myself but it's not uncommon to bypass the side-stand switch by bridging the connecting block with a paper-clip.

Have you checked all the connections in the starter circuit for looseness and/or corrosion. Earth connection from battery, battery to solenoid, solenoid to starter, starter to earth.
When you hear the solenoid click, do the lights dim??
 

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Lots of people already said it, but your battery might not be much good. Test the voltage across the battery as you're hitting the starter, and see what it drops to.
 

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Agreed that 12.4 is low but you'd think it would try to turn over.
Back in the old days, yes, but now they put protection circuits in and if its not getting the voltage it wants it scrams. My Guzzi did this too when it had a weak, but not dead, battery. Dash, lights, etc all fine but once you hit start the dash would flash for a split second, click, nothing. Dash stayed on, etc.

New battery solved all of that.
 

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With an AGM battery, 12.4 volts is only around 50-60% charged.

If you're really using a trickle charger and not a smart charger, purchase a smart charger like a Battery Tender or other when you buy a new battery. Your battery will thank you.
 

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I'd try arcing the starter...you essentially bridge the positive and negative terminals with a screwdriver...if it cranks it's your starter solenoid/relay...if it just hums and gets hot your starter is cooked
...or remove it and hook it up to a battery directly
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the ideas. I shorted my relay posts with a screwdriver, and the motor tries to turn over. It drains the battery too quickly (two tries) to allow the engine to start. I replaced the solenoid, thinking that it might be bad, but I still get the clicking when I hit the start button. I'll try jump starting the bike with the battery disconnected. I would rather buy a new battery than a new starter so I'll check that first :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Actually, I do use a smart charger. It goes into maintenance mode once the battery is charged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I mis-spoke in my original post. The battery is originally at a little over 14 volts until I try the starter button. When I do that, the voltage drops to about 11 volts.
 

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The battery sounds fine. If it was hitting 10.5 or less during the cranking we could tell you to get a new battery.

i am back to my original post, fuel.

(I've cranked over a few engines when the battery draw was 9.0 volts when cranking)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Have you tried with the clutch pulled in and the side-stand up??
Also, intact fuses are not necessarily carrying current. Give all your fuses a good wiggling to clear any light corrosion that may have occurred between fuse and holder.
Agreed that 12.4 is low but you'd think it would try to turn over.
Any errors on the dash??
Never done it myself but it's not uncommon to bypass the side-stand switch by bridging the connecting block with a paper-clip.

Have you checked all the connections in the starter circuit for looseness and/or corrosion. Earth connection from battery, battery to solenoid, solenoid to starter, starter to earth.
When you hear the solenoid click, do the lights dim??
Yes, I tried it with the clutch in and sidestand up. I will give the fuses a remove/reinstall cycle and see if anything happens. No errors on the dash. I have replaced the solenoid after shorting the old one's posts, and hearing the engine turn over a couple of times. Still no joy, but I think that means that the starter is OK. Sounds like I may have a bad battery since it goes to zero charge after I short the solenoid and try turning the engine over just twice. Thanks for the suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The battery sounds fine. If it was hitting 10.5 or less during the cranking we could tell you to get a new battery.

i am back to my original post, fuel.

(I've cranked over a few engines when the battery draw was 9.0 volts when cranking)
It has plenty of ethanol free fuel, so I guess I would need to do some checking at the injectors.
 
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