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2007 S2R 800 clutch won’t disengage

1341 Views 21 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  RI Monster, 
R
Hi all:

After unsuccessfully searching the forum, here is my problem.

I have a bone stock 2007 S2R 800 Monster with 3,000 miles and the clutch won’t disengage. The bike has sat for a few years.

I initially got the engine up to operating temperature and shut off the bike, put it into 6 speed and tried rocking the bike with the clutch lever in to see if possible sticking clutch plates would release. But no luck.

I’ve done the following so far:

1. Change the brake/ clutch fluid
2. Bled the slave cylinder (the clutch lever seems to have no resistance through the entire stroke)
3. Taken the slave cylinder off the engine and bled it hanging by the hose to ensure the curve in the clutch hose is not entrapping air (however, when I pull the lever with the slave cylinder off, the clutch lever will lock up hard
4. Removed and inspected the clutch shaft. It was free of debris and had surface grease like it just came from the factory.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.
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QLDs4
By bleeding it off the bike you might have had the slave piston travel to it's full extension of travel, this would possibly explain the hard lever you now have.
Have you tried bolting the slave back onto the bike?
Was it hard to do up the bolts?
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ducvet
Pull the clutch pack and separate the plates they may be bonded together.
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B
does it have pressure in the clutch lever when you pull the lever in? if so, all the bleeding is a waste of time. it's the plates that are stuck.

zip tie the lever in and let it idle in neutral until hot. then drop it into gear and see if that gets it free. i have a customer with an mts620 that does it regularly.

does it jump and stall when you put it into gear, or just cut out? if it just cuts out it's a logic circuit issue - side stand / neutral light / clutch switch
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B
1. I wouldn't stress the hardware. Bike is a sitter and probably won't break loose. Watch the pressure plate move out. If it moves, it means all is good up to this point.

2. Disassemble, shuffle the plates and steels around. Note cutting edge of the steels. Cut side faces the pressure plate.

3. Wet plates coat with oil. Dry clutch assembly, shuffle like cards and install. Miles are too low to address plates with spray cleaners, sandpaper and the like.

Signed,
NOLTT
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R
QLDs4 said:
By bleeding it off the bike you might have had the slave piston travel to it's full extension of travel, this would possibly explain the hard lever you now have.
Have you tried bolting the slave back onto the bike?
Was it hard to do up the bolts?
Click to expand...
yes. I relieved the pressure on the slave cylinder prior to reinstalling on the bike (no resistance on bolting it up), whereby the clutch lever is back to its original state with little or no resistance. I assume there should be some resistance when engaging the clutch. I’m wondering if the clutch basket assembly is the problem since the bike has been sitting a few years.

Thanks.
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R
belter said:
does it have pressure in the clutch lever when you pull the lever in? if so, all the bleeding is a waste of time. it's the plates that are stuck.

zip tie the lever in and let it idle in neutral until hot. then drop it into gear and see if that gets it free. i have a customer with an mts620 that does it regularly.

does it jump and stall when you put it into gear, or just cut out? if it just cuts out it's a logic circuit issue - side stand / neutral light / clutch switch
Click to expand...
No pressure on the clutch lever when I pull it in.

I tried warming up the engine and dropping it into gear (by I didn’t zip tie the clutch lever in) but it just jumps and stalls.

It jumps and stalls when I put it into gear so it’s probably not a logic circuit.

Thanks.
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B
if there's no pressure then it's hydraulic. maybe the master is just rooted.
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Beauwulf
Two things, did you check the adjustment of the lever screw to the clutch master plunger? Screw in to get more throw. Second, to break the clutch plates if stuck, put in gear and bump the bike backwards usually pops them loose.
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DaveAu
RI Monster said:
Hi all:

After unsuccessfully searching the forum, here is my problem.

I have a bone stock 2007 S2R 800 Monster with 3,000 miles and the clutch won’t disengage. The bike has sat for a few years.

I initially got the engine up to operating temperature and shut off the bike, put it into 6 speed and tried rocking the bike with the clutch lever in to see if possible sticking clutch plates would release. But no luck.

I’ve done the following so far:

1. Change the brake/ clutch fluid
2. Bled the slave cylinder (the clutch lever seems to have no resistance through the entire stroke)
3. Taken the slave cylinder off the engine and bled it hanging by the hose to ensure the curve in the clutch hose is not entrapping air (however, when I pull the lever with the slave cylinder off, the clutch lever will lock up hard
4. Removed and inspected the clutch shaft. It was free of debris and had surface grease like it just came from the factory.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
G'day RI Monster.

I've freed up a sticky crutch on a hyper before :devilish:.

Got a frantic call from a Sheila and when I arrived I just started the bike in gear (clutch in, brake on, sitting on bike obviously ;)) and it freed up easily. Depending on how long yours has been standing, the plates may or may not be dried out and we'll stuck....but hers was only unused for a month or two and freed up as soon as the engine fired.

I see you are looking at hydraulic issues from sitting. Slave cyl seals and master cyls don't like sitting with old fluids. Make sure they are clean and not leaking or re-kit.
(y)
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R
Beauwulf said:
Two things, did you check the adjustment of the lever screw to the clutch master plunger? Screw in to get more throw. Second, to break the clutch plates if stuck, put in gear and bump the bike backwards usually pops them loose.
Click to expand...
Plates were hopeless stuck together. Every attempt to bump and free them was without success. Had to take the discs out to unseparate them. Hopefully I can get it reassembled without any issues.
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R
2
All:

Here is the update on my dilemma...

It was definitely the clutch plates fused together. Clutch hydraulics were fine.

This is what I have done so far:

1. Took the disk pack out of the basket
2. Separated the disks and cleaned the metal spacer disks with steel wool.
3. Cleaned the fiber disks and steel spacer disks with parts cleaner before reassembly
4. Reassembled clutch
5. Tested clutch with lever before putting the case back on and everything worked fine.
6. Put case back on, refilled with oil.
7. Clutch worked fine with bike running for 1 or 2 shifts

Current problem:

On the 3rd shift or so, bike will no longer shift into gear. And can only pull the clutch lever in about half way. As noted in the below pictures, the outer clutch basket is not retracting all the way and there is about a 1/8" gap between the clutch basket inside face and the first fiber clutch plate (which is loose because the clutch basket is not fully compressed).

Any thoughts on what to do next?

Thank you in advance for any additional insight.
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ducvet
I am going to say you assembled something incorrectly and the pressure plate is too far away. This is why the clutch lever is rock hard the slave cannot compress the engine case so it is a hard stop. You have the slipper clutch so it can be tough to assemble properly not the alignment arrows and be sure the plates are in order. Also verify one of the small slipper springs has not popped out of place on assembly.
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R
ducvet said:
I am going to say you assembled something incorrectly and the pressure plate is too far away. This is why the clutch lever is rock hard the slave cannot compress the engine case so it is a hard stop. You have the slipper clutch so it can be tough to assemble properly not the alignment arrows and be sure the plates are in order. Also verify one of the small slipper springs has not popped out of place on assembly.
Click to expand...
DUCVET,

Thank you for your input.

The frustrating thing is it worked fine when initially assembled since the pressure plate fully retracted as it should.

I was very careful to ensure the alignment arrows were properly aligned and the 3 small pressure plate springs were installed properly.

I guess I’ll have to pull it apart to see if something moved.
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ducvet said:
I am going to say you assembled something incorrectly and the pressure plate is too far away. This is why the clutch lever is rock hard the slave cannot compress the engine case so it is a hard stop. You have the slipper clutch so it can be tough to assemble properly not the alignment arrows and be sure the plates are in order. Also verify one of the small slipper springs has not popped out of place on assembly.
Click to expand...
DUCVET,

Thank you for your input.

The frustrating thing is it worked fine when initially assembled since the pressure plate fully retracted as it should.

I was very careful to ensure the alignment arrows were properly aligned and the 3 small pressure plate springs were installed properly.

I guess I’ll have to pull it apart to see if something moved.
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R
3
ducvet said:
I am going to say you assembled something incorrectly and the pressure plate is too far away. This is why the clutch lever is rock hard the slave cannot compress the engine case so it is a hard stop. You have the slipper clutch so it can be tough to assemble properly not the alignment arrows and be sure the plates are in order. Also verify one of the small slipper springs has not popped out of place on assembly.
Click to expand...
DUCVET and others,

Pulled the clutch disks and found the following:

1. The three springs between the inside of the pressure plate and the inner clutch drum were all installed properly (see photo)
2. The arrow on the face of the pressure plate was aligned with the tick mark on the face of the inner clutch drum (see attached photo).
3. I believe these are the two (2) reference marks (D &E) noted in the Ducati service manual (see manual photo)
4. With the pressure plates, inner clutch drum and pressure plate removed, the clutch lever is still rock hard and on moves in slightly. I would think that the clutch lever (and transmission clutch actuating rod) would move freely with the clutch assembly removed.

Any additional insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
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ducvet
Did you have the arrow on the bottom aligned with the arrow shown?
I have one but it is not dissembled and the two arrows are aligned top and bottom. Did you have the inner hub out?
If not and it was working prior that is not it.
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R
ducvet said:
Did you have the arrow on the bottom aligned with the arrow shown?
I have one but it is not dissembled and the two arrows are aligned top and bottom. Did you have the inner hub out?
If not and it was working prior that is not it.
Click to expand...
DucVet,

The pressure plate (#13 in below exploded view) has an arrow on the outside face, but the clutch drum (#10) only seems to have a notch in the face (as noted in the middle photo above). I could not find alignment arrow on #10.

All of the work I have done is with the the clutch drum (#10) and the outermost clutch basket (#14) on the engine (I didn't want to take these off unless absolutely necessary).

Thank you for hanging in there with me to try and resolve this.
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B
when you release the lever does the pressure plate move back? did you adjust the screw on the lever? maybe the fluid can't flow back and hence you're pumping the pressure plate out, but instead of returning when the lever is released it stays where it is and each time you pull the lever in it moves further out until it hits the inside of the cover?
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convict
some interesting things here

s2r 800 clutch slipping? or just weird aptc clutch action i cant tell, help!

s2r 800 clutch slipping? or just weird aptc clutch action i cant tell, help!
ducatimonsterforum.org
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