Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum banner
  • Hey Everyone! Enter your bike HERE to be a part of this months Bike of the Month Challenge!
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
God this is driving me nuts, and left me stranded a few times now.

The bike has a brand new battery, for some reason after I charge the battery or jump it to start the bike, the bike will never restart on it's own after that, even after a long ride, it will not have enough power to start the bike. Do I have a serious short somewhere, or is the bike not charging the battery? I cannot figure it out, and any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
794 Posts
If you think there is a charging problem, all you have to do is get a multimeter and see what the resting voltage of the battery is, then start the bike (if possible....jump it with another battery) and see that the voltage rises when running. The service manual will give you the correct numbers, but basically if the running voltage is around 13.5 to 15.5 V (again, consult service manual) the charging system is working.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,391 Posts
Could be the big fuse under the battery. This I believe is the charge fuse . If there has been a short ie if the jump leads were fitted the wrong way at any time this will blow causing no charge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,845 Posts
1. Yes do the voltage check first as 995 stated. With a charged battery you should see 14.5V over 2500 rpm.

2. Take all the cables off the battery and scrape them clean. Also clean the battery terminals. Also take the ground cable off the engine and clean that connection.

3. The most common failure on the ducs of this era (other than the aforementioned fuse) is the stator wiring. Check the connector on the three yellow wires where it connects to the regulator rectifier. These are undersized, get hot and burn up. Or, they just create a lot of resistance and the juice won't flow to charge the battery. Mine acted up within 6 months of new. I simply did a mod and cut the connector off and soldered sections of wire in place which has worked perfectly for 10 years.

The odd thing about this connector is that jap bikes have been using it with the Hitachi and Shindengen reg/recs since the 70's and it was a problem back then. Isn't progress wonderful?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Fellas, thank you very much for the info, here's what I did, I charged the new battery fully, installed it on the bike, and the bike would not start, it tested like 11.75 volts at that point, I jumped the bike and voltage jumped around 15. So it seems to be charging. Now im thinking my brand new battery is bad!?!

Sent from my GT-P7510 using Motorcycle.com Free App
 

·
Super Senior Poster
Joined
·
6,328 Posts
Fellas, thank you very much for the info, here's what I did, I charged the new battery fully, installed it on the bike, and the bike would not start, it tested like 11.75 volts at that point, I jumped the bike and voltage jumped around 15. So it seems to be charging. Now im thinking my brand new battery is bad!?!

Sent from my GT-P7510 using Motorcycle.com Free App
Have the battery charged professionally, don't count on your home charger, Battery Tender, etc., to fully charge a battery. Most service stations and Auto stores can do it for very inexpensively. This way your sure that you have a "good" battery and it's fully charged for optimum performance.
My 999 has a resting voltage (at the dash) of 13.0-13.1. It easily drops off the 12.6-12.8 after a few attempts to start it when cold.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I might just get exchange for another battery, have that charged by someone, then go from there

Sent from my GT-P7510 using Motorcycle.com Free App
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,040 Posts
Battery depletion in short cycles is a sign of a bad voltage regulator
+1 I might start looking elsewhere. I have a similar (yet not as severe) problem w/ my 2006 999. Same as you I have a brand new battery.

I came across this article on troubleshooting a 3 phase charging system on a sport bike:

How to troubleshoot a charging system. - SBN Forum

Things that can contribute to your problem:

  • Battery
  • Stator
  • R/R
  • Parasitic electrical leakage (excessive key off amp draw)

It's possible you have a bad battery, but I would check the others areas before you settle on getting another.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Update?

Looking for a new battery for my 998R so I was checking for threads on batteries. Any updates on the issue? When you measured the 11.8V after the charging was that after you installed it or before? If before, unless your charger sucks, the battery is definitely bad. Fully charged should be nearer 13V but never under 12V. The 15V while running may actually be high, but I'm not 100% sure on that. If high, the regulator is probably bad and the high voltage is burning up cells in the battery. Don't tell the dealer that, the battery should be replaced under warranty.
 

·
Super Senior Poster
Joined
·
6,328 Posts
+1 I might start looking elsewhere. I have a similar (yet not as severe) problem w/ my 2006 999. Same as you I have a brand new battery.

I came across this article on troubleshooting a 3 phase charging system on a sport bike:

How to troubleshoot a charging system. - SBN Forum

Things that can contribute to your problem:

  • Battery
  • Stator
  • R/R
  • Parasitic electrical leakage (excessive key off amp draw)

It's possible you have a bad battery, but I would check the others areas before you settle on getting another.
I had a parasitic draw some where but a s long as I had my 999 on a tender it was OK. I ended up replacing the main harness and starter solenoid last week and found it corrected all my cold hard start problems as well as raised my resting and riding volts considerably. I found when I removed the battery box to install the new harness the ECU ground wire was disconnected. It was just there, not attached to the bolt/nut fastener that holds the ECU to the B. box. There was no doubt it wasn't connected but I don't understand why it would even run. Maybe because the PCIII's ground wire was connected. But my old harness had some nasty kinks in it compared to the new/used 2004 harness. Whatever was wrong, the new harness corrected it and now my engine feels stronger when starting...especially w/ the fast idle lever engaged. With the old harness it would barely turn over. With the new harness it turns over 100% stronger w/ the fast idle lever on. Also the lights don't knock the volts down as they did with the old harness. I was dealing w/ an intermittent 34.0 error code. I installed a new crank sensor along with the harness and that's gone. But no doubt the engine runs stronger (coils sticks getting a stronger spark???), starter spins faster, so my electrical system appears healthy again....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,040 Posts
I had a parasitic draw some where but a s long as I had my 999 on a tender it was OK. I ended up replacing the main harness and starter solenoid last week and found it corrected all my cold hard start problems as well as raised my resting and riding volts considerably. I found when I removed the battery box to install the new harness the ECU ground wire was disconnected. It was just there, not attached to the bolt/nut fastener that holds the ECU to the B. box. There was no doubt it wasn't connected but I don't understand why it would even run. Maybe because the PCIII's ground wire was connected. But my old harness had some nasty kinks in it compared to the new/used 2004 harness. Whatever was wrong, the new harness corrected it and now my engine feels stronger when starting...especially w/ the fast idle lever engaged. With the old harness it would barely turn over. With the new harness it turns over 100% stronger w/ the fast idle lever on. Also the lights don't knock the volts down as they did with the old harness. I was dealing w/ an intermittent 34.0 error code. I installed a new crank sensor along with the harness and that's gone. But no doubt the engine runs stronger (coils sticks getting a stronger spark???), starter spins faster, so my electrical system appears healthy again....
Thanks! I did something similar.

I took my B box apart,tested and cleaned the solenoid contacts. Cleaned the 40 amp fuse contacts, cleaned and re-tightened the ECU ground (which was a little loose) and the chassis ground.

Made a big difference the starting strength.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top