[NalloK]

Hey there forums!

So I've been reading for the past two days and following instructions other people have posted for solutions to their problems.

However I'm in a rather odd boat.

I just purchased a 2003 Ducati Monster 620. I went to check it out and was able to turn the key get the gauges on (light up green and cycle), was able to get it to start and ran it over to fill up the tires (they were low).

However after I cut the power and filled up the tires, then put in the key and turned it, the cluster didn't light up and all I had was a blinking yellow light.

Come back the next day, I'm able to turn the key and get the gauges to light up and cycle, and kick the starter, but after the first time turning the key again doesn't do anything (still have blinking yellow light).

So I was thinking maybe the battery was dead, trickle charged it all day, put it back in and still nothing.

What seems odd is that this is sometimes working, so any tips on things to check or try would be appreciated or any direction would be amazing.

I've checked the fuses, looked at the connection points (nothing looks bad or dirty) so I'm stuck where I am right now.

 

[NalloK]

Ok so I came back today, and could turn the key everything came on, rode it around a bit, then brought it back to the garage, tried it like 5 more times, worked each time. However as soon as I took out the key and moved the bike, now nothing comes back on.

Is this the anti theft system?
If so I haven't read anything about it in the manual.

How long does it last?
Seems like waiting the time it all worked, just not sure how long.

Is there a way to adjust or disable it?

 

[belter]

if the dash is not powering it's some sort if basic power supply issue, or the dash itself. immo will just stop it running, not powering up.

 

[NalloK]

if the dash is not powering it's some sort if basic power supply issue, or the dash itself. immo will just stop it running, not powering up.

Thank you for your reply!


The dash does light up, just (and I'll test this out tomorrow) as long as I don't move it without the key in / or as long as I move it when it's running. If I shut it off and take out the key, then walk it forward, it doesn't light up anymore (for at least 24hrs, going to test what timeframe exactly, as it's just when I could get over there). If I don't move it take the key out, put it back in, turn it on and off it always works. It's very odd.

If anyone has any experience or ideas I'm willing to test it all out.

Checked the fuses, checked the wiring all of it. Nothing seems to be out of place.

 

[duc96cr]

I think that you may be moving the bike with the immobilizer set causing it to go into immobilizer mode. Try moving it with the key on, kick stand up.

 

[NalloK]

I think that you may be moving the bike with the immobilizer set causing it to go into immobilizer mode. Try moving it with the key on, kick stand up.

Thank you for replying! I think you might be right. Any idea how long that mode lasts? I went early this AM to try, but it was still immobilized. Is there any way to reset it? I read through the manual but nothing about motion or movement triggering anything or anything of that sort.

 

[NalloK]

@belter just to reply to the other part of your question. It does start up fine when the dash kicks in, but when it's not nothing happens.

 

[duc96cr]

I had an issue with my Monster that was similar, except it was dead all the time. It turned out to be a bad connection in the wiring harness. I unplugged each connector, checked for corrosion, sprayed with corrosion inhibitor, and plugged them back together making sure the wire on both sides of the connector was pushed completely into the connector. Someone at the factory apparently placed the zip ties too close to the connectors which caused the wires to pull out of the connector just a hair, you couldn’t see it, enough not to make good contact. I cut all the factory zip ties and replaced them further from the connectors. It’s worth a shot. Also, clean all your grounding points to bare metal. Bypass your clutch switch, kick stand switch, and tip over switch (if there is one) with a jumper wire to see if any of them is bad.

 

[NalloK]

I had an issue with my Monster that was similar, except it was dead all the time. It turned out to be a bad connection in the wiring harness. I unplugged each connector, checked for corrosion, sprayed with corrosion inhibitor, and plugged them back together making sure the wire on both sides of the connector was pushed completely into the connector. Someone at the factory apparently placed the zip ties too close to the connectors which caused the wires to pull out of the connector just a hair, you couldn’t see it, enough not to make good contact. I cut all the factory zip ties and replaced them further from the connectors. It’s worth a shot. Also, clean all your grounding points to bare metal. Bypass your clutch switch, kick stand switch, and tip over switch (if there is one) with a jumper wire to see if any of them is bad.

Thank you, I'll check all of this when I get over there this evening. Really appreciate you taking the time to write that all up. I'll let you know if I find anything.

 

[themonkeyman89]

I think that you may be moving the bike with the immobilizer set causing it to go into immobilizer mode. Try moving it with the key on, kick stand up.

I don't think this is the case, I believe the ECU only sees speed when it is powered. I move my '06 M620 around all the time key off and key not in the ignition and have never had this issue.

Like someone said above, my money is on a poor connection somewhere, either at the ecu or the dash cluster.

 

[glyn g]

Cluster lights

HI,
Your problem could be similar to what happened to me, not on my Ducati though but on my Yamaha FZ1. When turning on the ignition the cluster lights up and the rev counter runs through a self diagnostic mode. Occasionally when turning the ignition on there was no cluster lights, no self diagnostic mode, and the engine warning light would stay on and NO START. Turns out after lots of searching and advice it was just dirty ignition switch internals ( contacts ) which was solved with a good squirt of electrical contact cleaner into the ignition barrel.
Hope this helps.

 

[NalloK]

So as recommended, I took the electrical apart and found a broken connector which was loose, I cleaned everything and put it back together with dielectric grease. It's working without a problem now.

Thanks for the help!

 

[NalloK]

So it turned out this was one of the relays. I ended up testing continuity on the entire wiring harness and eventually got to the two relays, found one was so corroded and rusted that it would come out without force. Order two new ones and sanded the old one, it all works now! Thanks for the support everyone offered and be sure to check those things if you have a similar issue!

Hope this helps someone in the future.