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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)

I have 2003 749S in south korea
6500km ran and all option is Stock (NoExhasut,No tunning)

My bike was run in rush hour time sevral month.
South korea have terroble rush hour all of the city.

Then one day the RPM gage is going down quickly sevral time when riding
Then I think that is not a big problem

couple of weeks past
break down(enging stop) occur sometimes when "Red Light"
That means when ran on the road have no problem
The breakdown occur when the motorcycle stop to run.
Then I felt the problem is not a big problem and I could to ride motorcycle

but after a week the engine stop occur so many time
I couldn't keep going on..Because every red Light my bike's enging is stoped.

So I was going to the Motorcycle Shop to fix problem.
but engineer can't find the reason why engine stopped on high temp.

(cooling system is Ok, Oil condition is Okay, Plug, AirFilter and
cylinder balance is also okay)

Usual check point is already checked when I going to the bike shop.
But the engineer says "that case is first time"
and Really don't know why engine stops on high temp.

Have you ever experience this case?????
 

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Does the bike start back up immediately after it dies?

I had similar issues twice with my 749. The first time was due to too much oil in the sump. When I came to a stop or stopped down-hill, the engine died. Apparently, the oil in the sump rushing to the front caused some sort of load on the motor, stalling it.

The second time had to do with the fuel pump electrical pig-tail coming from the bottom of the fuel tank. Under the rubber boot, the larger gauge black ground cable to the fuel pump disconnected in the epoxy seal. This only happened when the bike was hot. Once the bike cooled off the connection returned and the fuel pump would then power back on. Took 3 weeks to diagnose after replacing the battery, fuel pump relay and the fuel pump itself.
 

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The second time had to do with the fuel pump electrical pig-tail coming from the bottom of the fuel tank. Under the rubber boot, the larger gauge black ground cable to the fuel pump disconnected in the epoxy seal. This only happened when the bike was hot. Once the bike cooled off the connection returned and the fuel pump would then power back on. Took 3 weeks to diagnose after replacing the battery, fuel pump relay and the fuel pump itself.
Did you have to replace the whole thing or was there an easy fix for that?
I'm having the same issue right now and before I change the fuel pump assy I would like to try that one. already change pump relay and battery.
 

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Did you have to replace the whole thing or was there an easy fix for that?
I'm having the same issue right now and before I change the fuel pump assy I would like to try that one. already change pump relay and battery.


Ducati would like for you to replace the entire pump/flange/filter/regulator/pig-tail assembly. Part number 160.2.362.1A for about $900.

But, I fixed the broken harness manually for about $6. But, it's wan't exactly easy...

In the flange is a cylinder that the harness routes through. The cylinder is seated in the flange with an o-ring and a snap ring. You have to remove all of the components from the flange to get to the snap ring. Just pry the star clips from the posts on the top-side of the flange, 2 large and 4 small. Then remove the black housing after disconnecting all of the fuel plumbing. Get some stainless hose clamps before-hand because the stock ones are not re-usable (need 4)

In the cylinder there is a connector to prevent fuel wicking or siphoning through the cables. If there was not a connector, a single piece of braided wire would allow the wire to act as a wick. The connector breaks the non-air tight connection preventing a clear path for fuel.

The epoxy that fills the cylinder is very similar to JB Weld. I know this because I've machined JB Weld on my lathe in the past and the smell and texture is not easily forgettable.

You’ll need to cut the wire on both ends of the cylinder then remove all of the epoxy in the cylinder. A vise and drill will work just as well as a lathe and boring bit, but be careful of the connector in the cylinder. The drill bit will catch the brass parts and torque the assembly, possible causing the cylinder to warp or put a knick in it, either would be bad.

Once it’s empty, recreate the part.

I added lengths of copper cable to all 4 wires on both sides to keep the length of the harness the same. Be sure to heat-shrink these solder joints. See pics

I then used a modified Western Union Splice, similar to the following in figure 5.33 here:
http://www.tpub.com/content/construction/14027/css/14027_124.htm
to splice the upper and lower halves of the harness. Do not heat shrink or tape these solder joints as that will cause a leak!!! It’s the solder that creates an air tight connection.

Use hot glue to act as a separator to keep the joints from touching. I attached a low-qual pic. Basically, use the hot glue slowly to create a disc of hot glue that separates each solder joint. The diameter of the disc should match the inside diameter of the cylinder. Keep it as thin as possible to allow for as much epoxy in the cylinder.

Once the hot glue is solid, slide the cylinder over the harness and let the exposed joint sit centered in the cylinder. Use a clamp to the hold the assembly upright and fill with JB Weld, not JB Quick. The hot glue disc will prevent the epoxy from leaking all the way through. I used a large syringe to fill from the bottom up to prevent air pockets.

24 hours later, flip the assembly in the clamp and fill the other side.

If you’re concerned about leakage, get a 12 inch length of clear vinyl tube about 1-1.25 inch in diameter. Put it over the top side of the harness and hose clamp it to the cylinder. Fill it with fuel and pressurize it to check for leaks through the epoxy.

Put the fuel flange assembly back together and go for a ride.
 

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shees RJ ...I don't think I'm as savvy as you when it come to these thing. I don't think I could do all that. Fuck! that means I have to go to the stealership .
 

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shees RJ ...I don't think I'm as savvy as you when it come to these thing. I don't think I could do all that. Fuck! that means I have to go to the stealership .
maybe you can source the harness by itself without having to buy the entire flange assembly. Junk yard?? Good luck.
 
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