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Discussion Starter #1
I have a pretty much all stock 03 749. The bike seems to have a real hard time getting started from a stop...wants to snub out and chatters a lot. My buddy told me I should get a different sprocket/chain set up, but didn't really explain it all that well. Any pointers on what I should do? Do I change the front or rear?? and what size sprocket should i be looking for?

Thanks in advance
 

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I have a pretty much all stock 03 749. The bike seems to have a real hard time getting started from a stop...wants to snub out and chatters a lot. My buddy told me I should get a different sprocket/chain set up, but didn't really explain it all that well. Any pointers on what I should do? Do I change the front or rear?? and what size sprocket should i be looking for?

Thanks in advance
stock 14t front, 41-43t rear work well. I went with 43t rear and it seemed well suited for all-around riding. You will have to replace the chain to compensate for the bigger sprocket.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
so all i would need to do is change the rear to a 43t and put a new chain on. I am not looking for a "tuned" set up. just want something that makes it easier to get going in 1st. right now, its like the bike almost wants to cut out at idle speed....
 

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Old Wizard
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14/43-100

As Bella suggested, stock gearing for a 749 is 14-tooth front, 39-tooth rear sprocket with a 96-link chain. A popular gearing change is to a 43-tooth rear sprocket that requires using a longer 100-link chain.
 

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+1....go with same stock 14T front and go 43T rear. I went for the 41 and onl because I wanted to do the R1 throttle tube mod. Check Driven racing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
did a little reading on here and the EK chains with the screw master link seem popular....don't need any crazy tools. any thoughts
 

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Old Wizard
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Riveted Chain Links

If you check EK's website and catalog you find that they recommend only a rivet-type master link for all their strongest chains but allow clip-type or screw-type links for the less powerful bike applications that use lower tensile strength chains. Rivet-type links will have the same strength as the other machine-made links if peened over properly.

The concern is that the master link connection is not machine assembled and consequently is often weaker, mainly because of the lack of consistent quality assembly by the owner or cycle shop employee.

This is the same position taken by the other chain manufacturers. DID, for example, only supplies clip-type links with their low-end series chains for use on lower-power lower-weight bikes. They are not supplied (nor recommended) for their premium superbike and racing chains.

To be fair, you'll find plenty of people who have run chains with the non-riveted links with no ill effects. They don't fail easily or often, but they're not totally fail-proof either. So I guess it's debatable as to what to do.

But keep in mind that if a failed chain simply exited off the rear of the bike every time then, I guess, it's no big deal. However, often when a chain breaks the financial consequences can include penetration of the engine casing, bending the transmission output shaft, damage to the clutch slave and clutch push rod, the shifting spindle, rear wheel hugger, and the left exhaust can. It's been shown that (on some bikes) the chain wedges between the drive sprocket and the engine casing so as to stop the engine so quickly it can bend the crank.

From a rider safety point-of-view, a chain link failure, when it causes rear wheel lock-up, especially when leaned over in a corner, can be quite upsetting.

Considering what's at stake, it's hard to justify using anything but a riveted link.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the advice....I never really thought about it that way, but that is more than enough reasons to go with the riveted chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Is a 43T sprocket going to take too much off the top end of the bike? Would I be better off with 42 or maybe 41? Is there really going to be a big difference if I only go up to a 41?
 

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Is a 43T sprocket going to take too much off the top end of the bike? Would I be better off with 42 or maybe 41? Is there really going to be a big difference if I only go up to a 41?
No, I have had mine geared that way for quite some time, and am actually gonna try a 44 when I replace this set. You can still easily clear 140, and with it geared down you get there faster. As far as brand, Vortex is one of the VERY few, that make sprockets for Ducatis over 42t. I don't know why that is, but apparently everyone thinks that having all the torque we do, doesn't require much gearing down.
 

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Is a 43T sprocket going to take too much off the top end of the bike? Would I be better off with 42 or maybe 41? Is there really going to be a big difference if I only go up to a 41?
43 is definitely better around town. If you really gotta have those few extra MPH on the track, you can go lower.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah, this is not a track bike, just my favorite way to get around town and more favorite way to get around twisty country roads in northern wisconsin...sounds like 43 is the way to go. Thanks a million guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok, one last question....what is a good all around chain, not for racing, just something durable and maybe to dress the bike up. Gold or possibly red if they even make a red chain...
 

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DID ZVM2 series is about the longest wearing chain in the market, but $$. EK chains are available in colors, but I have no experience with their quality. RK chains are very good quality at reasonable price; GXSO series have gold plates, and many vendors sell these as kits with Vortex sprockets (made by RK/Excel).
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok, got the gold 43t sprocket and a red EK MVXZ chain, 120 links. Now I need to know how many links the chain should be cut down to. Also wondering how this set up is going to affect my speedo?
 

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Bike in neutral, run the chain along both sprockets, as it would be installed with the rear wheel set todesired wheelbase. Zip-tie one free end of the chain to the rear sprocket, then pull the chain taut to see which link is on the tooth next the end-link. Mark and cut accordingly, be sure to consider room for slack in the chain when installed.

Will not affect speedo since it has reference to the rear wheel, not the tranny or front sprocket.
 
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