[tonered]

Yep. An there seems to be more realistically priced ones comming on the market. Check out the parts sticky.

Have a good one.

 

[tonered]

Do you have a shim between the cps and crankcase? If so, try removing it. Even though there is a recommended gap, a wafer thin gap is best as it is just an induction sensor.

As an internet diagnosis, if you have no spark on either plug, your best early bet is a cps replacement.

Have a good one.

 

[tonered]

I'm trying to recall from my 2000 ST2 (Deerslayer 1); IIRC, the starter would crank with the run/stop switch OFF and/or sidestand down, just no fuel pump or spark, whereas later years, they would not even crank in that condition. Am I recalling incorrectly?

pg
DD

My 01 world not turn over with the side stand down. Thus, my reasoning for shorting it and taking the risk.

Thanks , yes there was a shim, I was looking through LTs manual for the st and see a ohms test for the sensor, I am going to pull it again and test it for that. I guess if i can't find anything I will check every wire in that system to make sure nothing is pinched or broken, then I will start with a new sensor, I hate this crap!

Try removing the shim. You can test the resistance at the connector on the left frame.

Yeah. I hate sparky issues also.

Have a good one.

 

[tonered]

Since the bike was running well before hand and then just stopped, I doubt there is much value in following up on CPS shims etc, if the sensor seems okay.

IDK. A better signal with a smaller gap "could" help. It might not be a good idea to unilaterally rule it out. Just sayin'. Another bit with the CPS signal is that the fuel pump will prime with the key on then it will start up again when the CPS detects a signal.

On the fuel line aspect, they tend to pop more often with a full tank for some weird reason.

Have a good one.

 

[tonered]

I get you. It is digi, so it would get a signal until it doesn't.

Going on the past discussions here, dropping one cylinder was indicative of ECU issues. No spark on either plug still has me thinking CPS. Other than spark plugs or a popped fuel hose, it is the least expensive, esp that eBay version.

Yes, I've heard of two shims in there. My ST only had one and that was removed when the tacho was acting up. It was the tach (loose brass screws), but I never replaced the shim.

Have a good one.

 

[tonered]

Good to hear that you are up and running.

Yeah, metal fuel lines would be killer, but we'd still need rubber in there for the connections and to be able to get the pump assembly in an out.

There is a decent price on the good R10 fuel line at frsport.com. The desmotimes R7 line has been holding up well. I just had to not be fearful of cranking down on the clamps. I do have a foot of R10 on the shelf if I ever get around to moving the fuel filter outside of the tank.

For the batt, I've been very happy with the 12Ah YT14B4. It is a bit taller than the YT12BS, but fits easily in the stock box. The extra amps are nice.

Have a good one.

 

[tonered]

If were placing orders, I'd like some metal quick disconnect fittings at the bottom of the flange and just run the external lines forward, instead of aft, down, and around. =)

Have a good one.