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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Follow-up to my New member intro post, im starting this thread for my 748 "light resto" thread.

I recently picked up this 2000 748 with 6300mi on it, reasonably cheap. It's got no service history and was pretty grubby. Its probably led a hard life to some degree. it came with a set of Xerox race rep fairings and is missing a bunch of small stuff. Most of the missing or bodged stuff ive now bought off ebay. Im a "back to Stock" type of guy, so no mods for me (at least not cosmetic). Main work won't start till the fall, but ill spend my time collecting the parts I need and assessing/learning all I can in the mean time.

what I've found and bought so far (when I say "new" I mean new to me, most parts are used off ebay):

New Rear tail light - has a Chinese LED rear light with the integrated turn signals
New Turn Signals - only the left front signal is "intact", right front is broken and the rear ones are missing due to the integrated tail light
New rear sub frame same colour as the rest of the frame - mine is chrome and someone has cut off the Bi-posto seat supports - likely due to the monoposto aftermarket tail being fitted in the past
New Seat cowl front hinge - the pin/springs etc are missing on mine
New Rear fender and Lic Plate mount/light - mine has been long removed and has a crappy cheap replacement
New Airbox and Yellow Side Panels - mine have been painted white to match the after market Xerox fairings
New OEM Clutch cover - mine has been painted white

I also removed the tinted headlight covers - not a fan of these

What I got in a box with the bike:

OEM bar levers - these will go back on to replace the aftermarket Pazzio (sp?) look alike levers
OEM Passenger foot peg hangers - missing the pegs and pins/springs
3 specialized socket /tools for what I believe are for the rear wheel and the head-stock

What I still need to buy/fix:

Clear windshield
OEM fairing fasteners (Cheap crappy aluminum screws in there now)
Passenger foot pegs, pins and springs
Bar end weights
"748" decals
Tremignoni exhaust stickers, mine are bubbling
Stain on the Bi-posto yellow seat - cant remove the stain

Mechanicals Im expecting to buy:

New Belts
Valve Shim Kit
Fork Seals (mine are shot)
Guy Martin Collets (?? maybe)
Plugs, Oil Filter, Oil etc

Other findings :

Right side rear exhaust hanger bolt is missing (no big deal)

The Good:

Tires are new ish
Chain and sprockets are new (originals are in a box and are not worn, just different sizes/ratio's)
Battery is new
Bodywork is generally decent
Starts and Runs well - at least the limited time I have with it. Its been started a lot but not "Run" much, I haven't got it safetied yet, so it has only done a kilometre down my "gravel" road (ie slowly). I will have to check the Reg Rec and voltage to be sure all thats ok

What Don't I know ?

Love to hear from the experts here on any typical problem areas that I should look into ---- Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Reg Rec seems good

Unfortunately I cant put the original stock levers back on as the actuating pins/rods won't come off the cheap levers. I can get the small Allen locking screws out but the head of the screw on top of the actuator pin is bitched, so I cant remove the pin from the barrel. I read here that its a common problem, $39 US for one replacement is a bit steep. Ill watch Ebay for a while see if anything shows up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Questions on Valve clearance checks (I searched the forum but didn't find my answer):

1) I saw for 2 valve bikes that closer measurement should be as close to zero as possible with no drag when measuring, does the apply to 4 Valve bikes as well ?

2) What gaskets are mandatory to replace when I de the valve check. & belt replacement ?

thanks
 

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Questions on Valve clearance checks (I searched the forum but didn't find my answer):

1) I saw for 2 valve bikes that closer measurement should be as close to zero as possible with no drag when measuring, does the apply to 4 Valve bikes as well ?

2) What gaskets are mandatory to replace when I de the valve check. & belt replacement ?

thanks
Hey Stray! Congrats on the bike man! That was also my first Duc, loved the 748. She definitely took some time to learn, she likes to be ridden a very particular way. I was coming from a CBR so the transition seemed pretty dramatic, but totally worth it. the 1.5yr I had with my 748 taught me so much about riding, I'll definitely have another Tam Gen Duc someday (hopefully soon!)

There are quite a few opinions/guidelines on valve clearance, if you dig too deep into it you'll walk away more confused than you did coming in. This is what I've learned and gone by-

Closers-

You want the closing value to be at or nearest to 0. Imagine the way the valvetrain works, on the cam cycle that closes the valves, you want the valves as tight as they can mechanically be for all of the obvious technical benefits. That being said, my set of feeler gauges goes down to 0.02. When I was doing the valves on my 1098 this winter I spent time changing shims, measuring, changing shims, measuring until I had all of my closers less than 0.04. The bike ran noticeably better.

Now if you go to a Dealership, as long as the valve clearances are within spec, they wont touch the shims. Ducati claims for most road going bikes, this is the best practice for all parties involved. If you go to a race shop, they'll try to get the closers nearest 0.00 as they legitimately can. The race shops are fitting custom shims to achieve this as the "out of box" shims are, at times, mathematically impossible to use and achieve a perfect 0. All in all, it really comes down to your personal preference. I decided to go for the 0 because I haven't gone that route previously, had plenty of time and appreciated the challenge. You'll understand what I mean by challenge when you start doing the closers :wink2:

Openers-

The "perfect" clearance on the opener shims is 0.10 *iirc* (not 100% if that's different for the desmoquattro vs testastretta). I felt the openers were pretty easy to achieve 0.05 and was able to get all of my openers to 0.05, 0.06 or 0.07. They're also the easiest to change out and don't have any half rings/collets to mess with. Unfortunately, you still have to reseat the cams and torque the holders down to get check your values.


My openers were all within spec, there was no "reason" for me to change the shims other than my personal decision. My closers were mostly within spec save for maybe 3, again I took it upon myself to dig in and "have fun" with it. In my personal opinion, setting the closers nearest 0 as I could is what made the bike feel different. My openers were not that far away from 0.10 so in my mind I equated the fact that since the closing shims had more change in spec, that was the result of the bike running better. Did it make more power? No. Did it feel faster? Mehhh, maybe. BUT it DID idle better, feel smoother off idle, through the powerband and overall just felt better/smoother/right etc. My personal evaluation on the amount of time I spent vs the yield, I'd take the time to do it again for the "perfect" values. I enjoyed it, it broke up the mundane nights of the winter and I felt I accomplished something kinda cool.


For gaskets, get the valve cover gaskets and you should be good. Don't forget to add sealant in the areas around the cam holders the FSM calls for. I also did a coolant flush at this point as well as an oil change.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Fantastic answer and information, thanks so much for taking there time to write that for me. Much appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Wee bit of progress, rain day here at the farm so I took some time to start on the Duc.

Changed the clutch cover from the white one to OEM grey

The rear subframe was hacked up by bubba, the bi-posto supports were sawn off and the bi-potso seat hook posts were also cut off - so a new sub frame went on (see 2nd pic & 3rd Pic)

Cheap crappy rear licence plate holder and light were removed in favour of an OEM fender and Lic Plate light. *** see the last pic, I need a correct metal Lic Plate bracket for the fender, any one have one ?**

Chinese tail light removed and OEM light put in

Also found an array of electrical hacks that im cleaning up. one perplexing thing is what looks like a bypass/loop plunged into one connector, any ideas? -- see first pic
 

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I can put the DVOM on mine, and see which wires go to the license plate illuminator. Mine are a 1997 and a 1998.... not 100% certain if the colors would be the same.
 

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According to my schematic for your year, yellow and black (12VDC and GND., respecively) are the wires to the plate illuminator. They are tied into the hot and ground of the running tail light. They will be a bullet connector, connecting the harness to the illuminator.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thx, any idea what the loop/bypass thingy is ? that loop back thing that im touching ?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Naked and Afraid...

Bike's naked and I'm afraid -- will pull the throttle bodies etc next but my gosh its gonna be tight in there especially the vertical cylinder exhaust valves !!
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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Discussion Starter #14
You're welcome.

I honestly have no idea. None of my Ducatis have that jumper.
OK, thanks, ill do some investigation from the shop manual wiring diagram and see what I can deduce
 

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You're welcome.

I honestly have no idea. None of my Ducatis have that jumper.
OK, thanks, ill do some investigation from the shop manual wiring diagram and see what I can deduce
If you need me to search mine, let me know. My bike does have a plug in this same location, but it has no jumper. Instead, it only has a cap over it (no continuity, just a dust cap). The plug is going directly into the ECU harness. Note that mine is a 3-wire, not a two wire like yours.
 

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What color are the wires going into the factory end of the harness? This will help a lot.

Coming off of the ECU, there is a three wire test circuit. On a 2000 748, the wires appear to be black, black, and red/white, according to my schematic.
 

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Try starting the bike with the sidestand down, and see if it starts. If it does, then the switch has been bypassed. Pull the jumper and try starting the bike again. If it does not start, then you know it is a sidestand bypass.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hello again. Finally got back to working on the 748 this week.

Checked all the valves and all were in spec so thats good.
Changed the Cam Belts
Changed the Oil & Filter
Found a nice set of passenger foot pegs and hangers - got them mounted
New Bar end weights are on
New Windshield is here but needs to be mounted

I did buy fork seals but cleaned out the existing fork seals with a seal buddy, and now they're not leaking any more -- we'll see how that lasts, I may still need to pull the forks and change the seals out.

Next I need to prep some body panels for paint -- V brace, front fender, and air box are the wrong colour -- so ill get them re-painted in the new year.

I have a wanted Ad in the classifieds looking for the clips/linkages that the mirror posts clip into - all 4 of mine are missing.
 
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