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Hello all,

I prefer not to do this but want to get my orders in to take advantage of sales.

I want to improve my starting experience this winter and have following planned

new battery cables
change out Regulator with mosfet


The cables I can manage but I cannot find back a certain thread on the regulator.

In the thread the mosfet was identified + a wiring harness that allowed plug and play, no cutting required. I believe the harness was from a Thriumph.

Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction?


Tx
 

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ROADSTERCYCLE.COM...... That's where I got mine. Great guy to deal with.
 

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whats the advantage over the stock unit?
 

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You did ask :smile2:
A typical thyristor based R/R will produce 13.5-14.5V if it's healthy... And in semi healthy condition usually 13.2-14.8V... But depending on the temperature in the R/R, RPM and how fast the RPM changes it will swing wildly between these values at random...

A MOSFET based R/R in new condition usually provides 13.5-14.5V, and in semi healthy condition (which takes about 20-30 times longer than the thyristor's to age into) the same 13.2-14.8V...

But... And that's a pretty important but... The MOSFET R/R tends to go towards middle voltage at just off idle RPM, and then towards lower voltage at high RPM, with only small peaks towards higher voltage usually when the RPM's change... Also the swings are slower, more controlled...

A SLA want's 13.8-14V or soo to charge, a GEL usually want's 14.1-14.2V to charge... Most SLA's "boil" and get reduced lifetime if the spend to much time above roughly 14.2V, same goes for GEL's at 14.5V... Drop to low and they simple stop charging... Just below optimal charging and you get "maintainance mode" as in most chargers...

This means that as long as the battery is in good condition it has no problems coping with a semi reliable R/R of either type... But a thyristor based R/R will age it sooner, and ages itself sooner... And then you get problems...

A MOSFET based R/R keeps the battery lasting longer, keeps the voltage more constant, which is good for the ECU/CDI, the electronics in the gauges, the fuses and also keeps the lightbulbs in your headlight happy since it likes just above 14V to make peak light output (provided you have decent wiring too it)...

Both types will make fireworks and smoke when the battery boils over if a diode in the rectifier decides to go wide open, and both will stop charging the battery if it fuses... But a MOSFET Regulator takes a very, very long time to go "bad" enough to create the heat needed for damaging the rectifier diodes... corroded connectors are obviously something that affects both equally in terms of resistance/heat...


Now for the LiFePo's... They like to be charged at 13.6-14.4V, and optimally at around 13.8V... They highly dislike going above 14.4V since that charges them very rapidly with no real way for them to dissapate the heat, and charging to much at lower than 13.4V will build up internal resistance which reduces lifetime...

So a thyristor based R/R in peak condition will work decently... but only in peak condition... A MOSFET one will work even in semi decent condition since it rarely peaks and if it does it's a short time... It might reduce lifetime, but it's unlikely to blow stuff up...
 

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I got the MOSFET RR, a new stator and a Shorai battery.......life is good (electrically) ??
 

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I have a MOSFET VRR in the 916 and will be installing one in the ST4s this weekend. Both regulators were purchased on eBay used for less than $40.00. I used Shendingen model FHO12AA out of 2007(ish) Yamaha R1 but they are installed in several different bikes. It was just easy to search for Yamaha R1...

This link from the HOW gives you all the info you need.
http://www.ducati.ms/forums/80-hall-wisdom/94947-upgrade-fix-no-more-charging-regulator-rectifier-problems-9.html

After picking up the regulators, I ordered just the plug kits from here: Home For around $19.00 and build my own harness. I chose to eliminate the OEM plugs for reliability, but if you are intent on keeping the OEM harness intact, just cut the original plugs off your bad VRR (cut close keeping most of the wire to reuse) and use quality (correctly sized) butt connectors AND A REAL CRIMP TOOL to connect them.
 

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thanks Davey, looks like i am not done upgrading the bike, next upgrade is a 998 motor.
 

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I have original setup normal acid battery (yausa) 8 years old and it start without any problem. I don't use any battery chargers,..

And same is with all my other bikes.

Only thing is that i start them every 14 days during winter.

>:)
 

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I have original setup normal acid battery (yausa) 8 years old and it start without any problem. I don't use any battery chargers,..

And same is with all my other bikes.

Only thing is that i start them every 14 days during winter.

>:)
Sooner or later you stock R/R will shit itself and leave you stranded with a flat battery like mine did.
Replace it before it dies and do the Mosfet upgrade at the same time.
 
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