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2000 996 clutch help

4K views 54 replies 11 participants last post by  Lurkable 
Maybe I like the noise but functionally those can be made to work just fine. If you want a quiet clutch I agree that you need to change basket and plates if you simply want to make the clutch function as normal (except noise) then try this first.

1. remove the clutch pack and surface all steel plates, you need all those dots you see removed and the plates flat again. The dots are the curled bits of metal from the fiber plates that have broken off and fallen in between the plates. This causes the groaning noise as you pull away as it is high spots that are not wanting to slip as you are trying to slip the clutch pulling away. Remove the high spots and you remove the noise.

2. The tabs on the fiber plates will continue to fall in if you do not clean them up so take a grinder,file etc and remove all curled up metal on the plates. Try to keep all plates as uniform as you can and remove as little material as possible. Know that the larger the plate to basket gap the faster the wear so expect to do this operation more often as the parts wear. Once you get close to 1/2 plate tab thickness I would toss them. I have a plate on the wall that was about 1/2 worn (tab) and worked fine to 50,000 miles, we finally swapped them out on the customers bike due to noise.

Most people change dry clutches due to noise or the groan, you can fix the groan for another 5-6000 miles by maintaining the plates but noise will continue to get louder. The 50,000 mile plate that is 1/2 worn is still well within fiber thickness spec so friction material has not worn appreciably in that amount of miles. Another option is a slipper clutch, these will wear out the fiber materials much faster and give you a reason to change plates more often. A down side to the slipper is they often do not like to slip pulling away so expect the groan to come sooner, this is the reason I do not recommend dry slippers for the street.
 
TomTom said he was kidding but there was some wisdom to his joke. Most wear does come from hammering of the plates on the basket and where most of that comes from is on/off throttle conditions. so yes we like acceleration and decelerations but that is what wears them out faster than loading to one side or the other. I see far less wear on track bikes than street bikes , city bikes in particular. The up and down through the gears is less an issue than rolling off and on in the same gear.

A couple decades ago a vintage single racer told us his trick was to throw the steels on the concrete in his basement and grind it around on each side under his boot. He claimed it made the bike much easier to launch on race starts, we all laughed at him and assumed he was breathing too much race gas. In hind sight it is not as good as a proper surfacing job but will likely give a benefit. If you chose to try that method be sure to make a video.

Better yet .....
video tape yourself grinding the steels under your boots on the floor, best done while sipping wine with Pavarotti playing in the background.
File/grind the clutch tabs square and clear of burrs.
then show yourself coating your dry clutch fiber plates with lithium grease.
Title it "Ducati dry clutch maintenance"

If it works you will be a youtube god!
 
I too have good luck running 4 springs on SOME customers bikes, depends on application and setup.

If you have a good pack and are not hard on acceleration (living at peak torque/hp) you should be fine with a stock system.
Hydraulics change not needed but no harm in different parts if they work as designed.

If you do get slipping then swapping clutch springs to aftermarket springs (barnett golds or pretty stainless) will be an improvement as they are 20-30% stiffer than oem. This does mean you loose a little ease of pull but if you factor in the loss of 2 springs it is still a noticeable improvement over oem 6 spring. If you are riding hard or doing track service you can always just re-install a couple springs in about 10 minutes and remove them when you play commuter again.

On rebuilding the master I dont know as it is worth the time. Yes a kit is cheap but so are used masters and even a new master. One of the things you do not get with a re-build is a new bore in the master so any scoring or pitting will still be there. I see so few issues with these masters I would feel 90% safe picking up a used master and being done with it. Be aware that often on ebay sellers sell used masters for 80% of what a new master sells for so start with a new master price and then shop from there.
 
I have sold a number of Accossato masters and the quality is top notch as for size I would simply cal Fred at Yoyodyne and ask him. He is a super nice guy that has been selling race hydraulics for a LOOOONG time. He was the brembo distributor in the US for many years and knows more about motorcycle hydraulics than our current two brembo distributors combined. I have a couple here in the shop ( 1=16mm and 1-18mm) but I have not used them on my own bikes yet to give you a answer on which is "best".

Some of this question is answered by which slave you have so if it were me I would call Fred on Monday and on his recommendation install the size that Fred says works best with the slave size you plan on buying. As to which slave I would 110% run the yoyodyne slave as it is hands down the most reliable. In 20 years using them I have seen 1 yoyodyne slave failure and it was due to a pushrod boring a hole through the piston.

The ONLY downside to the Accossato master I can think of would be spare parts, motorcycles test gravity every so often and when it does will you be able to replace a lever when that happens. OEM is best for this so if you are a crasher I would stay oem, all "cool" masters have levers that are harder to find so maybe get a spare before you need it. no one I have sold a Accossato (or race brembo) would go back to stock after putting the new master on but again it depends a lot on you.
 
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