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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Wow, the last 3 motorcycles I worked on were British (BSA, Triumph and Norton) and were around 50 years old.

What a pleasure it is working on a bike only 20 years old. The nuts come off easily and you don’t need a special set of Whitworth wrench’s to loosen things up. And everything is right there easy to get to.

I’m going to have a lot of questions, I hope you guys can give me some advice along the way.

This is also the first bike I’ve worked on that has all its parts! Most bikes I work on are bare frames and I build up from there. This bike is pretty complete and the only major part that is missing are the carbs.

What I want to do is get the new carbs (or rebuild old ones), get them installed, change the oil, add a battery and get it started.

Once I know that it runs, I can spend time and money on fixing it up.

Because of Covid, I unfortunately can’t go for carbs right now, so I’ll do some cleaning up and see if I can make it look better.

Here’s where I am...

I have a long way to go.

 

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Because of Covid, I unfortunately can’t go for carbs right now, so I’ll do some cleaning up and see if I can make it look better.

Congrats! These little Monsters are a blast to wrench on and ride.

As for carbs, is eBay not an option for you? I would also suggest a Duc parts specialist like, Gotham Cycles - The Ducati Parts Specialist. They sell new and used parts and have an eBay store.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
eBay is absolutely an option and that’s where I’ll probably eventually get the carbs, but for now we’re on a TIGHT budget. Lost half my salary due to Covid so it’s cleaning and polishing for now!

But this is how I learn!
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
My first question.

Am I better off taking everything off the frame, painting the frame and putting everything back? Or do the best I can with the engine and everything on the frame?

Maybe what I’m asking is how difficult is it to remove everything and put it back together? Old British bikes are bastards to work on and it seems like this monster is designed way better and pulling everything off would be easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just found a few bucks, does anyone have a set of carbs for a 750 Monster they want to sell?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What have I done?

I take back what I said about 20 year old bikes being easier to work on than 50 year old bikes. This puppy had been left outside for 10 years and all the bolts are either rusted solid or corroded beyond repair. I ended up with a cutting wheel getting the really bad bolts cut off.

I was debating how to approach this restore and I think I’m going to do a deep clean up instead of a restore; sort of a minor restore.

According to the speedometer (and it seemed to be working) the engine has 8300 miles and it looks to be in really nice shape. It’s the frame and the bolt-ons that are all rusted and deteriorated.

I’m going to give the engine a really good washing. Maybe I’ll take it outside and put degreaser on it and hit it with a power washer.

Next I’ll put brown paper around the engine and mask off as much of the engine as I can then take a wire wheel to the rust on the frame, hit it with a primer and then repaint the gold frame.

Then I just have to put it all back together cleaning and restoring or replacing parts.

What do you guys think of that plan?







 

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Discussion Starter #9
Man... seems like you're most of the way there. May as well drop the motor and then both frame and motor would be easier to work on, no?
It would, I’m debating the work it would be to mask the engine vs drop the engine.

Is it hard to drop one of these engines?
 

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Is it hard to drop one of these engines?
NOPE. 2 bolts....and of course, all the electricals, fuel lines and cables....oh, and the clutch line to the slave cylinder. Other wise, put a moving dolly under it, unbolt the bolts and lift the rest off. Taking the chain off makes it easier too...sean
 

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Discussion Starter #11
NOPE. 2 bolts....and of course, all the electricals, fuel lines and cables....oh, and the clutch line to the slave cylinder. Other wise, put a moving dolly under it, unbolt the bolts and lift the rest off. Taking the chain off makes it easier too...sean
Yes I just took a look. Two bolts!

Electronics are all removed as are all fuel, clutch, vacuum lines and cables. Should be a breeze. Will do it tomorrow. Don’t know where my dolly is, gotta take a look. If I can’t find it, I’ll use my hydraulic floor jack.

I’ll post some pictures tomorrow if I get it off.

Any idea what it weighs? I’ll need to lift it to the bench. I’ll use my old man strength.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
While I have the engine out, what maintenance should I do. I’m planning an oil change, new timing belts and I’ll check the valves. Anything else?
 

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You’re so far in you don’t have to drop the engine. Unbolt the frame and it will come straight up off the engine!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Hi this is Geno from Henderson, Nevada
Originally from western NY
Now in Nevada have an M750 been working on, bought it in bad shape
The carbs and airbox gave me fits
The approach I took is eliminate the airbox, got a tray to hold the battery and have k-n pods.
This approach is not for the faint of heart, the pods are tough to tune...still tuning but much easier to access carbs w/o the airbox.
When you start on the carbs the best thing I did anyway was to get a hold of Mark at Factory Pro. I spoke with him and also emailed. You can get a factory pro jet kit, the needles and emulsion tubes from him.
Really knowledgeable. He mentioned that removing the snorkels and keeping the airbox lid is probably the most minimally invasive thing to do along with a k-n filter to help the performance.
Mine is running pretty good right now, not expensive option especially compared to getting to getting flatsides/FCRS.
The other thing you can get from Factory Pro is the float gauge for setting the height of the rectangular floats.


I tried this unsuccessfully with calipers around 10 times before ordering one and am very glad I did.
Some other things that can be done is to core the factory cans which with your experience would be pretty easy.
A metal cutting chop saw, a little bit of planning ahead and some rivets are all you need.


I made mine stupid short and it sounds amazing-not too loud but pretty good bark when you get on it.
Best wishes and enjoy your project...They are great around town bikes.
-Geno
 

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While I have the engine out, what maintenance should I do. I’m planning an oil change, new timing belts and I’ll check the valves. Anything else?
Any idea what it weighs? I’ll need to lift it to the bench. I’ll use my old man strength.
That about covers it. I mean, I'd take a good look at the swing arm bearings while you have that kind of access. At the very least put some fresh grease on them before you reassemble.

Other than that, the horizontal cylinder tends to accumulate road grime, pebbles and general grunge atop the barrel and between the fins. I'd give that a good clean too.

As for what it weighs.....I dunno exactly. I'd hazard a guess of about 170-180 lbs. Maybe. I know I can lift it but hoisting it up on my work bench, I made sure I had help so I didn't hurt my already damaged back.

Also, it feels lighter without oil in it. And lighter still without the clutch installed. Without the OEM flywheel, it feels pretty light even with the clutch installed. I hoisted the assembled engine up onto my bike bench (only about 18" up off the floor) with relative ease.

It's much easier to lift the frame off the engine. I supported mine with wood blocks on a mover's dolly so when I pulled the bolts, it just rested there. Then I lifted the frame off.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi this is Geno from Henderson, Nevada
Originally from western NY
Now in Nevada have an M750 been working on, bought it in bad shape
The carbs and airbox gave me fits
The approach I took is eliminate the airbox, got a tray to hold the battery and have k-n pods.
This approach is not for the faint of heart, the pods are tough to tune...still tuning but much easier to access carbs w/o the airbox.
When you start on the carbs the best thing I did anyway was to get a hold of Mark at Factory Pro. I spoke with him and also emailed. You can get a factory pro jet kit, the needles and emulsion tubes from him.
Really knowledgeable. He mentioned that removing the snorkels and keeping the airbox lid is probably the most minimally invasive thing to do along with a k-n filter to help the performance.
Mine is running pretty good right now, not expensive option especially compared to getting to getting flatsides/FCRS.
The other thing you can get from Factory Pro is the float gauge for setting the height of the rectangular floats.


I tried this unsuccessfully with calipers around 10 times before ordering one and am very glad I did.
Some other things that can be done is to core the factory cans which with your experience would be pretty easy.
A metal cutting chop saw, a little bit of planning ahead and some rivets are all you need.


I made mine stupid short and it sounds amazing-not too loud but pretty good bark when you get on it.
Best wishes and enjoy your project...They are great around town bikes.
-Geno
Thanks Geno. I just tracked down a carb and air box but I’ll check out Mark and see if he can help when the time comes. I’m still at the dismantling and parts gathering stage and planning my build.

The next big project is get the frame off and blast and paint it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That about covers it. I mean, I'd take a good look at the swing arm bearings while you have that kind of access. At the very least put some fresh grease on them before you reassemble.

Other than that, the horizontal cylinder tends to accumulate road grime, pebbles and general grunge atop the barrel and between the fins. I'd give that a good clean too.

As for what it weighs.....I dunno exactly. I'd hazard a guess of about 170-180 lbs. Maybe. I know I can lift it but hoisting it up on my work bench, I made sure I had help so I didn't hurt my already damaged back.

Also, it feels lighter without oil in it. And lighter still without the clutch installed. Without the OEM flywheel, it feels pretty light even with the clutch installed. I hoisted the assembled engine up onto my bike bench (only about 18" up off the floor) with relative ease.

It's much easier to lift the frame off the engine. I supported mine with wood blocks on a mover's dolly so when I pulled the bolts, it just rested there. Then I lifted the frame off.
Thanks. I’m lifting it off tomorrow. I’ll post some pictures afterwards.

I can’t find my dolly so I’ll use my floor jack. That should work.

Can I take the stickers off the frame or is that a legal thing? They’re faded anyway so they don’t really mean anything.
 

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I think your fine doing that. If they're illegible then there technically isn't anything you're removing. The VIN is all that's required as far as I know....the part number tag might be a good one to keep though.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The speedometer on this bike says 8300 miles which based on the condition of the motor (visually) could be true. It’s been left outside for 10 years which also explains the low mileage.

Given the potential low mileage, do parts like the mono shock and spark coils wear out? Does it make sense to get a new shock and coils?

I’m planning on new part plug wires, but besides that, what parts wear out?

Looks like the fork seals are rotted and looking at bikes for sale, this seems like a common issue. I’ll replace the fork seals and dust covers.

I’m trying to think of what else wears out. Things like brake pads and tires are a given. Can you think of anything else?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well it’s done. Got the engine off the frame and the frame striped down.

I’m going to see i I have the energy to media blast the frame. It’s pretty nice out there today.

Looking at the engine on the bench, it appears to be in nice shape. I REALLY don’t want to touch the engine if I don’t have to. I’m planning on giving it a good cleaning and that’s about it.

I’m glad I stripped the frame. It will look A LOT better when I paint the entire frame.

Let me know if anyone has any thoughts.







 
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