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Discussion Starter #1
Okay so to start from the begining, I lost my key somewhere. Have no idea. So I had the idea I would wire the ignition for keyless iginition. I was able to get this working, then the switch broke. So I bought a new switch, wired it exactly like I had previously, but now I can not get Ducky to start. I think I may not have it wired properly.

So I get the idea to go on Ebay and purchase another key with iginition switch. I figured it would be plug and play since to my knowledge a 1999 748 is does not have an immobilizer. Well I plug in the new iginition and turn the key and nothing. Thinking the battery might be dead, I plugged in the poorly wired keyless iginition and I can get power to all parts of the bike and hear the fuel pump prime, but when I hit the start button it just turns over and never catches.

So I ultimately have two questions:

1. Why does the new iginition with new key not work..it came off another 748 and has the exact same wire colors and wires are in the exact same spot on the old on.

2. How do I wire the keyless switch in order to get it to work? Since I have it, I'd like to use it.

I have included pictures of the switch I purchased. Here are the wire colors I'm dealing with

red
gray
yellow
green with black stripe
blue
white with red stripe

The switch I am dealing with is a 30 amp on / off switch...I've seen post where it says use a 25 amp switch, but previously the 30 amp worked well...is this my problem? Does it absolutely have to be a 25 amp switch?

On the switch there is a post for wiring labeled POWER...a post for wiring labeled ACC...and a post for wiring labeled GROUND

If someone could just tell me what color wires to put on which post, that would be fabulous...I have tried and looked at every post I've seen about keyless iginitions and none of them are helping me.
 

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I don't have any experience in making a Ducati into a keyless ignition setup, but I know that it was not really that hard on my R6 race bike.

But I will comment on is the type of switch that you are using. I for one would not make it that apparent. I used a much slimmer rocker style switch and kept it out of the way and pretty much hidden.

Here is the switch I used...
http://m.radioshack.com/radioshack/...arts|Switches|NTE+54-510+Switch+Rocker+SP/10A

I just tucked on the underside of the subframe. You can't see the switch unless you're looking for it.
 

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I'm curious about this as well as the Corse style ETI fuelcell tank I'm going to run on the 748R I'm rebuilding doesn't allow use of the ignition cylinder since there's no dip in the center of the tank.

Watching to see how you get this sorted.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Will update when I figure out a solution...would like to know why be cylinder with key doesn't work...assumed it would be plug and play
 

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Will update when I figure out a solution...would like to know why be cylinder with key doesn't work...assumed it would be plug and play
You mean with the ETI tank on my bike?


I'm going to do what you did with the switch bypass. Will mount my switch to an aluminum plate bolted to the stock mounts. Want to make sure I don't run into the same problem you have.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I understand why it won't work with your tank...but originally when I lost my key I purchased a key and ignition assembly...the key turns the ignition fine but when I plug the assembly into wiring harness I get nothing

When I plug in the key less assembly I can get power, lights and fuel pump to prime...hit the starter button and it turns over just won't catch all the way and start
 

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It could be possible you got a bum switch. I would check continuity and resistant through each circuit in the new ignition switch first to make sure it is functioning ok and the contacts inside aren't corroded or damaged.

As for the switch, if it's the exact same style switch wired into the same harness the other switch was that work, and now it doesn't....seems like the wiring might have gotten mixed up then.
 

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You have six wires from the harness and six from the switch ?
are the two sets the same colour or are couple different ?
1=?----from loom to----1=?
2=?--------------------2=?
3=?--------------------3=?
4=?--------------------4=?

5=?--------------------5=?
6=?--------------------6=?

brian.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay on the ignition assembly side I'm gonna assume red is 1 since red is main power in most applications. In my diagram and in pictures attached, wire loom is represented on left, ignition switch on right

1. White. 1. Red

2. Orange. 2. Gray

3. Empty. 3. Blue

4. Empty. 4. White with red stripe

5. Two yellow wires. 5. Yellow

6. Blue with yellow stripe. 6. Green with black stripe

And as stated in OP, the switch I have is a simple 30 amp on / off switch with post for wiring labeled POWER...ACC...GROUND


You have six wires from the harness and six from the switch ?
are the two sets the same colour or are couple different ?
1=?----from loom to----1=?
2=?--------------------2=?
3=?--------------------3=?
4=?--------------------4=?

5=?--------------------5=?
6=?--------------------6=?

brian.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So using the attached diagram I did the following...

Connected red and green with black stripe to the power terminal on switch...I also connected yellow and gray to acc terminal

Charged battery at advance and also cleaned of the little bit of rust on terminals using vinager

Reconnected everything and flipped the switch...lights, dash lights, relays click as suppose to, fuel pump primes, plenty of gas in tank...

Hit start button, turns over really strong just doesn't start...

Prior to losing key she started fine...

Wth??
 

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FYI you may want to consider a marine application switch before you get everything figured out. If the bike is going to see any rain a waterproof switch would be to your advantage. I just remember picking a 12 V toggle without regards to any amperage range; I honestly don't remember the switch having three contacts...I think just two? It has been a while...
 

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FYI you may want to consider a marine application switch before you get everything figured out. If the bike is going to see any rain a waterproof switch would be to your advantage. I just remember picking a 12 V toggle without regards to any amperage range; I honestly don't remember the switch having three contacts...I think just two? It has been a while...
Also, my bike is track only with no lights, signals, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
found the magic solution

After monkeying with it all day to the point of draining battery again lol...I finally figured it out...

Red wire on ignition assembly is main power obviously, so I connected that to POWER terminal...through play with wires discovered gray operates fuel pump, yellow lights and dash, green with black stripe operates ignition relay (probably more but for my purposes that was enough knowledge)...

So final assembly was as follows:

POWER terminal: red wire

ACC terminal: green with black stripe, yellow, and gray wires

Waited for battery to be charged...connected keyless assembly...took a couple of tries, but she finally fired up...flipped switch to OFF and back to on and started again...I have done this three times so far and she fired every time....
 

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That's great that you figured it out. I checked mine and it does have only two electrical contacts on the on/off switch, so my keyless ignition only functions by breaking a connection on one wire.
 

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How do you turn the bike off?

Followed the last post, got the bike to turn on and crank. What about the other two wires that you mentioned in the first post but not the last?
 
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