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Oem parts = parts fit as designed
Aftermarket parts = parts fit to work often as a cheap replacement for parts that are designed to work.

My experience with Barnett dry clutch packs are that you are better off spending the extra $100 and getting a better clutch. This is a common complaint with many new clutch packs as the fiber plates are at the thickest equaling a thick stack height. With some wear this will thin out and get better but if too far out of spec to start this is some of what you get, normally accompanied with complaints of not being able to get neutral.

The Barnett pack is likely a little thick as well as the aftermarket slave is likely a larger diameter piston (for easier pull) that opens the pack less . This combination is why you are in the situation you are likely in, to make it better try swapping a 2mm thick steel plate for a 1.5mm steel plate out of the oem pack (if the barnett uses any 2.0 plates). Either way you probably need to thin the pack by .5-1.0mm so you need to figure out how and you should be fine. Well until the next aftermarket part issue, watch for the barnett plates bonding together after getting wet so even with the clutch disengaged you stay engaged.
 

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WaspST said: Do you have an aftermarket slave cylinder?

ANS: Yes. This thing. (MC Motoparts Slave)

Your clutch master cylinder is a PSC 12 having a 12 mm diameter piston that is highly incompatible with your (too big) 30.5 mm slave cylinder — so you'll get incomplete clutch disengagement with associated problems finding neutral at a stop and slams into first from neutral..

MC & Slave Size Compatability.jpg
 

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Without any changes to the master cylinder, aftermarket slave cylinders that are installed to make for a lighter lever pull provide this benefit at the expense of reducing the throw action of the slave for the same amount of lever travel. It’s a compromise that makes stack height a little more critical, and may be impossible to overcome if you run out of clutch lever travel by the lever hitting the handlebar or, before this happens, you reach the end of the master cylinder travel, which limits the slave throw and clutch dissenagement.

As a point of reference, I can confirm that I’ve have had no clutch/gear engagement/disengagement problems with the 29mm dia. Oberon slave cylinder I fitted to my 1999 Gran Canyon, with OEM clutch stack, 10,000 miles or so ago. The reduction in clutch lever effort makes the ‘bike a nicer in-town ride.
 

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As a point of reference, I can confirm that I’ve have had no clutch/gear engagement/disengagement problems with the 29mm dia. Oberon slave cylinder I fitted to my 1999 Gran Canyon, with OEM clutch stack,
FYI WaspST— The Cagiva Gran Canyon also uses a PSC 12 master cylinder.
 

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I guess Don Ho was right all along.
 
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As a point of reference, I can confirm that I’ve have had no clutch/gear engagement/disengagement problems with the 29mm dia. Oberon slave cylinder I fitted to my 1999 Gran Canyon, with OEM clutch stack, 10,000 miles or so ago. The reduction in clutch lever effort makes the ‘bike a nicer in-town ride.
[/QUOTE]

FYI WaspST— The Cagiva Gran Canyon also uses a PSC 12 master cylinder.
On my CG900, and the four or five I’ve seen in person, the clutch and brake master cylinders are Nissin products. The clutch master cylinder is ½” dia., equivalent to 12.7mm dia., so it’s closer to 13mm than 12mm, particularly as it is the ratio of the piston areas that’s relevant here – 5% smaller area than 13 mm dia., 12% larger than 12 mm dia.
 

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On my CG900, and the four or five I’ve seen in person, the clutch and brake master cylinders are Nissin products. The clutch master cylinder is ½” dia., equivalent to 12.7mm dia., so it’s closer to 13mm than 12mm, particularly as it is the ratio of the piston areas that’s relevant here – 5% smaller area than 13 mm dia., 12% larger than 12 mm dia.
I stand corrected. A German website is specifying the Brembo PSC 12 as a direct OEM replacement.
 

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Does he have the adjustment screw on the clutch lever.with a 98?
I run a stock slave cylinder, aftermarket for an easier pull are asking for.trouble.
Is he running the stock pressure plate? With my Speedy Moto pressure plate I.use the oem bearing.hub. The Speedy Moto hub was deeper resulting in less clutch disengagement. I run the Barnett with oem slave, oem bearing hub and adjustment screw on the clutch lever and have no problems.
His clutch worked fine before because it was shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Hi, okay so to update I bought a new basket and a new slave. I installed everything correctly. Torqued everything to factory specs. I went to bleed the clutch and after my 4th it 5th cycle my clutch lever will not budge. It’s frozen until I release the bleeder banjo. I’m not sure what I’ve done wrong here? The funny thing is that I remember this happening when I replaced the slave before and I can’t recall what I did to fix the problem? I read post after post in here to see if someone else ran into this but for some reason couldn’t find an exact match for my issue. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I took this bronze slave (EVR?)off original because it’s broken internally. I installed the 30.5 slave but didn’t like it and you all told me it was too big anyhow. I have this new 30mm K Bike and I’m hoping it will work better. Came with a push rod spacer for my bike. Still having the bleeding problems like I said in my previous comment though. 😑
 

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sounds like the pushrod is too short. levers go solid when the piston bottoms in the slave if it is the type where the back of the slave is solid. if the piston can come out the back, it would.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I’m thinking that the pushrod is too long for the slave spacer. Meaning the pushrod must be from a newer bike. Because this slave is .5mm smaller than the previous and the spacer must not be needed.
 

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I just had a similar problem when I installed an Oberon as I didn't install the spacer (didn't think I had to because it was a 2000). Went back the next day, installed the spacer and it got rid of the problem. Did you install the spacer?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I just had a similar problem when I installed an Oberon as I didn't install the spacer (didn't think I had to because it was a 2000). Went back the next day, installed the spacer and it got rid of the problem. Did you install the spacer?
Yes, I did. I think that’s the problem, I don’t think my bike needS the spacer. I think that the pushrod is longer than the factory 98 ST2 pushrod. I never replaced it, maybe the previous owner did?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Anyhow, I appreciate all the feedback. I’m going to dive back into it again tomorrow. I’m exhausted with this thing for the evening.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Update: I ended up taking the clutch pressure plate off again because the clutch plates looked loose as the clutch wasn’t engaging properly. I took the push rod out to measure it and it came back at 32.5cm which are factory specs. I realigned the pressure plate to the spline and torqued the springs down to spec again. The new slave had the spacer Installed as it should. I bled the clutch briefly and took the bike for a spin. I did set the clutch grip to position 4. Absolutely perfect. Pulls like a SOB in every gear and shifts like it should. I guess a few headaches and some patience goes a long way with this thing. I’m now ready for the season... well... the rear tire could use some air I guess.
 
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