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Discussion Starter #1
I have had my FE for over a year and I always had it on a battery tender. Lately I have left the charger off, but have ridden the bike every few weeks. About a tank full of gas, each time I take it for a ride. Just recently, If I stop, in between a ride, the bike is hard start (battery cranks slower). I just did a quick check on the volt output without taking the fairings off, at the charging pigtail. I could only read 12.0 volts output, with the motor revving. I should get 14.2 volts, so the logical assumption is the R/R is bad.

Without taking off the fairings, I nosed around the r/r, it appears to be a three phase system. So why is the Ducati replacement r/r, $384? My ST 3 and S4RS r/r were $150 vs aftermarket of $130 ish, so I buy Ducati replacements. The local Ducati dealer states that the Ducati OEM parts, are the best. Especially the electronic parts, they last longer than after market. I was thinking about a mofset type of replacement, but the local shop are having problems with the r/r on a 851. They have been trying a mofset type replacement and they failing. I think he said after 2 replacement mofset type units failing, they will most likely put a Ducati OEM r/r back in?

So I am a little leery about replacing and installing a mofset type r/r. But for $130 ish, I can't loose, I save a big hunk of money and gain reliability, from what I have been reading!

Is there validity in the statement the Ducati electronics more reliable than after market?
Thanks,
Mark
 

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Hey MAZDuc

I'm in a similar position and after all the forum reading, I'm definitely going down the Mosfet route, however by the time it gets to Aus, it will be quite a few dollars more than your US$130. :crying:

Sorry I really can't comment on Ducati electronics vs aftermarket electronics apart from the observation that pre 2000 Ducatis are not renowned for their electrical excellence and reliability - but you probably know that. :laugh:

Good luck.

Regards

Muddy
 

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i'm going into my 7th uneventful season using an old Shindengen FH010BA from a Kaw ZX10, bought *used* on ebay.

The original stator was rewound by Rick's Motosport in New Hampshire, USA. Its the older single phase ('95 900SS/SP, 28K on the clock)

I also use a Signal Dynamics LED voltage monitor for instant visual charging confirmation. Can't be simpler.

The Shindengen, IMHO , has a great track record.....super stable, cool running and RELIABLE.
 

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I had the same problem just a couple of weeks ago on my 99 St4, when I pulled off the fairing I found that the connectors from the stator to the RR were coroded and the wiring was burnt through. I bypassed the the connectors and replaced the wiring. Turned out the RR was good when I checked it, 14.2 at 2000 rpm.
 

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I replaced the r/r on my FE with a Mosfet FH20AA from roadstercycle.com when I replaced my battery with a Shorai. The new batteries apparently like nice even voltage and the OEM r/rs are "known" to be a weak point, so I saw it as preventative maintenance.

I had to 1) source OEM connectors, 2) solder them to the new r/r, and 3) fabricate a new bracket to mount it.

Since then, I saw this, http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/part/10-009H/MDZEdWM5OTlTdXBlckJpa2U=. It appears to have the correct connectors, and may mount to the OEM bracket.

Hope this helps.
 

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The 1998-2006 regulator rectifier is as reliable a rectifier as you can find. I would trust one 100%.

Earlier 97 and before was a ducati electronica rectifier and these were prone to fail. I would say about 60% chance of failure on a 4-valve (or injected 2-valve) and 40% chance of failure on a 2-valve . I have seen just as bad from some aftermarket parts so my first choice is the Hitachi OEM. I have used Ricks on occasion with good results but would not say it is any better than oem.

I have seen less than stellar results from the electrosport rectifiers, they have failed as much as oem ducati electronica.
 

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Are you certain it isn't your battery? I know when mine get to end of life they exhibit the behavior where fully charged battery can run down to where it won't start after stopping for a while. Low rpm stop and go riding won't seem to keep it charged.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Are you certain it isn't your battery? I know when mine get to end of life they exhibit the behavior where fully charged battery can run down to where it won't start after stopping for a while. Low rpm stop and go riding won't seem to keep it charged.


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Battery was new when I purchased the bike a little more than a year ago. But I guess it could be a battery.
 
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