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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all!

Last weekend I picked up a VERY rough SP on craigslist that was sitting in storage (or a field by the looks of it) for 13 years. I got it for next to nothing and it does start run and stop!

Attached are some pictures of the bike in its state once I picked it up.
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987201
987202
 

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Discussion Starter #2
First update:

Here it is after a full weekend of cleaning and detailing. It actually looks much better than I expected after I went through everything. I managed to repaint the oil cooler as well.

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On order:
  • all new body panels (except for the two side fairings which I'm still looking for)
  • Tires
  • Chain, sprocket
  • Belt kit
  • Clutch
  • Gas tank (the old one had a hole in it which the PO never disclosed :mad:
My only concern at the moment is the original carbon bits (fenders, clutch cover, etc). The clear coat is roached out on all of them. I think my plan of attack is to wet sand them with 1200 grit, then apply either epoxy or clearcoat over the carbon. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

I also need to try and repaint some of the engine since the paint is peeling. I plan on installing all new gaskets so some covers will be easy to paint. Does anyone have a suggestion for color? I've heard that Rustoleum #7271 Silver Metallic can replicate anodized aluminum pretty well.

Does anyone know if the exhaust header is stainless steel from the factory? If so then I will sand down and try to achieve a brushed finish.
 

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Nice bike, I have the ie model, which has an equally rubbish headlight at night.....

Don't forget fork oil change,, swingarm bearing greasing and steering head bearing greasing, check all wheel bearings too, those are the sort of important things that people just miss as bikes get older but are vitally important.
Check for frame cracking around steering head.

Change brake and clutch fluids.

You might want to consider a new regulator too if you are traveling any distance in the future, 20+ year old regs have a habit of inconveniently dying, check the stator connection to the regulator and regulator to battery connectors too, they often rot.

Put a decent battery in it and Keep it charged all the time.

You should either put a new starter on it or check the brushes in the existing one.

Thats what I do to my 3 babies
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for all the feedback! It has unfortunately brought me some bad news though. It looks like my frame is cracked in the same place as everyone else :cry:

I was considering stripping the bike down to the frame to repaint some parts and give it a full once over. This has now made that unavoidable. I would imagine it would be pretty straightforward to get the frame welded with a gusset and take it over to my powder coater.
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Luckily the bike is so simple I think I can get it stripped down in a day or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I found a gentleman in SF who is apparently THE GUY to do this frame repair (has done loads of repairs on 900ss frames) for about $300 - 400. Factor in powder coat I'm looking at about $600 for the job.
 

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That doesn't sound unreasonable. Especially since you got a good deal on the bike.

I'm guessing the 900's are too powerful for these unbraced frames...
 

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for your carbon bits what works well for me is scuff them I use red scotch bright pads to do this. use a mixture of marine grade epoxy-not glass resin ---you can thin it with xylene to make it flow well. --Just use a 1 inch paint brush -brush it on, it should start to kick within 5 min. then brush on another coat--do this about 4 or 5 times letting it kick between coats. Let it sit overnight.
Then the next morning sand it lightly until nice and smooth--check carefully for air bubbles if you find any sand and touch up with epoxy mixture. once nice and smooth spray with clear let dry then buff it out
Now you have a piece that is far stronger then it ever was, very little weight difference and will last and look good for many years
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think it will be better off with a freshly painted frame with the bracing already done. A good piece of mind for any new owners. @Rennnsportmotorrad thanks for the tip! I'll give it a shot and try buffing with a mechanical polisher after.
 

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There was a guy selling on Ebay, he offered a frame brace for the steering head, I ordered one for my 91 900SS. My frame was not cracked but again as a precaution I did this. It was a clamp on brace and fit perfectly. You could also use gussets that are welded on, once it's repaired you probably will have no more issues, But to me extra protection does not hurt
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The gentlemen who will weld my frame is adding a gusset. Are you suggesting to add a brace as well just incase?

Here is the color I am considering for the frame powdercoat: "performance gold" from Prismatic.

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This frame has an extra clear coat with flake applied over it. Mine wont' have that.
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If your welder puts gussets in place and welds them in you should be fine, Mine was not cracked and I wanted to keep it that way and the original white frame-so I added the clamp on brace just as added protection because I was not going to take the bike apart
 

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Hello all!

Last weekend I picked up a VERY rough SP on craigslist that was sitting in storage (or a field by the looks of it) for 13 years. I got it for next to nothing and it does start run and stop!

Attached are some pictures of the bike in its state once I picked it up.
View attachment 987200 View attachment 987201
That wouldn't be the one on Bay Area CL advertised out near Clear Lake would it? If so, it did look a bit rough in the tiny fuzzy pics posted in the ad.....sean
 

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You should do a Search on the forum about frames cracking. It seems that once you brace the frame , all you do is move the point where the frame cracks to the end of the new brace. The bolt on tank mount ( like you have) may actually be preferable , but as you can see, the frame cracks right at the end of the brace. I’ve been told to drill a hole at the end of the crack before welding to prevent it from continuing.
After reading through all the information available about the frame cracking, I’ve come to the conclusion that there is no sure fire cure for the frame cracking. It appears the best solution available is a good repair of the cracked tubes, and the bolt on bracing available from Cali Cycle Works ( I think) .
 

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Not saying they dont have that bolt on brace but I just looked at Ca Cycle works site and I didnt find a bolt on brace. The one I purchased came from a guy in the U.K,
 

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Discussion Starter #16
@RockAZ Oh, absolutely. I'm doing all new gaskets, belt kit, oil, plugs, valve adj.... going to make this engine healthy again.

@Iwannaduc yea it is! haha it looked WAY worse than the photos described. I offered quite a bit less than he was asking.

@duc96cr I'm going to have a chat with the guy who will be doing the frame welding. He's a friend of Munroe in SF and is suppose to be very knowledgeable. I may throw a brace on there as well for piece of mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Frame removal update

Last night I removed all the components off the back of the frame, as well as recorded some video on my phone of the wiring harness layout. I piggyback this with some detailed labeling to make sure it goes back where it came from.

I plan on taking off the front subframe and fork as one unit (or possibly two), then set the motor on the ground (something soft) and just unbolt the frame and move it away from the engine and swingarm. Appears to be very easy to do. I'm hoping to have the frame off by tonight so it can go to the welder by the end of the week.

987257
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I know it has been discussed on here a lot, but I have requested several powder coat swatches from Prismatic Powder. I'll post some pictures of them once I receive them so they can be used as a reference for others.
 

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The failure was in the welding process so if you have it welded by a competent welder who is skilled with tubing welds you need NO extra bracing. I have changed tons of frames under warranty and after that had plenty of frames weld repaired. I have never seen one re-crack, with no extra bracing or bolt on add ons.

Would it bother to have a added brace? likely no but if you want it to look more original then I would skip it as it should not be needed. I do add extra bracing on race bikes but that has zero to do with cracking as we are simply planning on flexing the chassis.

Your call what route you want to go either will be fine in the end.

What is interesting is the frame is later style but newer than the bodywork so what year is it? I will guess it is pre-97 with a early 97 replacement frame. either that or it is a early 97 bike with the wrong fairings.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
@ducvet Its a 1996 SP. I'm sure it has the wrong fairings. Was there any change to the fairings during the 91-98 lifecycle? I was under the impression that beyond graphics, they're all the same.
 
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