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Discussion Starter #41
CARBS (part 2) and addendum to exhuast entry .. and frame braces

I had to split this entry up into two postings because the images exceeded the maximum size limit. See the previous post for "Part 1".

They look great. They'll be very temporarily stored inside until new fuel hoses show up. No sense in leaving them out in the heat while I wait on fuel lines, right?

GPR DEEPTONE INOX SLIP ONS:

The red bike depicts the "link pipes" I actually ordered.

The yellow bike depicts the "link pipes" that I actually received.

I'm glad that GPR either screwed up (or second guessed my order). The angled mufflers (yellow bike) will work out far better than that "S" shaped link pipe rig (red bike).


ONE OTHER THING - ANYONE KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THESE FRAME SUPPORTS ("FRAME BRACE")?:

*** Another member suggested installing a frame brace made by BBB Fabrications (see image #6).

*** I located what seems to be another fab shop in the UK that makes what appear to be the same type of bolt on brace. Anyone know anything about that company and/or that brace? (see images #7, 8, and 9). I think it's an independent fabrication shop.

*** Which looks a lot like what is labeled as a "Steve Bailey Frame Brace (image #10) ?????

Any help?

Thank you!
 

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The Anti Gravity ~LION~ battery came in. It's ridiculously lightweight. The stock box of lead and acid weighs 12 pounds 14 ounces. This Anti Gravity battery weighs 2 pounds 3 ounces. So roughly 10 pounds 11 ounces lighter than the lead acid lump. It came with really nice hardware for connecting the cables to it. I'll need to fab up some spacers so it will fit in the battery tray of the 1996 900CR. I'll install it after the carbs come back (they've been shipped out today, they should arrive in my hot little hands by the end of this week or the beginning of next week).

The battery came with a little bonus item. It's some sort of LION powered lamp, that has a number of configurations and uses. Best I can tell it also may be switched on and off via Blue Tooth (somehow?). It's bright as the Sun, and recharged via USB-C connector (cable included!).


Work on the bike will resume in about a week. Once the carbs show up I can get started with that. I've ordered in a set of heavy duty battery cables, a case saver, and a set of Exact Fit belts from Motowheels.

Carbs, battery, and heavy duty cables first.
Then I'll make sure it starts and runs.

Once happy with that, the case saver goes in.
Then the swingarm adjuster plates (see previous posting).
Lastly the GPR slip ons will be installed.

So, plenty of work ahead. One thing at a time!

:smile2:
Will this battery work with stock wiring, without any changes?
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Will this battery work with stock wiring, without any changes?
I can let you know after we finish lunch. So ... roughly another 2 hours. I'll take the new batt out to the bike and find out. The worst I can see happening would be a need to reterminate the existing cables.

I'll shoot a few pics as well.

Back soon.

:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Will this battery work with stock wiring, without any changes?
I can let you know after we finish lunch. So ... roughly another 2 hours. I'll take the new batt out to the bike and find out. The worst I can see happening would be a need to reterminate the existing cables.

I'll shoot a few pics as well.

Back soon.

:wink2:
Fell asleep. I'll hit this in the morning.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Anti Gravity Battery Terminals

Will this battery work with stock wiring, without any changes?
Ok. The terminals use what appear to be either chromed or nickel plated hardware, including the terminals themselves. The bolt's diameter is a little smaller than 1/4 inch ... (or "M6" if we're talking metric). It would do no good to show this battery on my bike since the battery cables on it have been reterminated with other-than-stock crimp on eyelets by some previous owner.

The batt has four terminals ... two positive and two negative. The terminals are designed in such a way that the terminal screws may be installed either from the top, or from the side (see pics). So a number of connection options are presented.

As long as the battery cable eyelets on one's bike will accept a 1/4" (or M6) screw it will connect up without having to mess with reterminating your batt cables. The screws that the battery uses are actually 0.230" in diameter (measured them with a micrometer).

Battery dimensions = 5.9" x 2.75" x 5.12" and weighs in at 2 pounds, 4.3 ounces on our postal scale.

I'll be posting pics of how I installed this battery in my own 900CR fairly soon in this very thread. Perhaps by the end of this week.

I hope this info has been helpful.

:smile2:
 

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Ok. The terminals use what appear to be either chromed or nickel plated hardware, including the terminals themselves. The bolt's diameter is a little smaller than 1/4 inch ... (or "M6" if we're talking metric). It would do no good to show this battery on my bike since the battery cables on it have been reterminated with other-than-stock crimp on eyelets by some previous owner.

The batt has four terminals ... two positive and two negative. The terminals are designed in such a way that the terminal screws may be installed either from the top, or from the side (see pics). So a number of connection options are presented.

As long as the battery cable eyelets on one's bike will accept a 1/4" (or M6) screw it will connect up without having to mess with reterminating your batt cables. The screws that the battery uses are actually 0.230" in diameter (measured them with a micrometer).

Battery dimensions = 5.9" x 2.75" x 5.12" and weighs in at 2 pounds, 4.3 ounces on our postal scale.

I'll be posting pics of how I installed this battery in my own 900CR fairly soon in this very thread. Perhaps by the end of this week.

I hope this info has been helpful.

:smile2:
Thanks for the great info! This sounds like a great upgrade with a huge weight difference considering. If I don't have to modify my stock set up, Im in. Fredsmoot also switched to ion and added a volt meter to his display.

For now I could just loose that weight by not eating.
 

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
...For now I could just loose that weight by not eating.
That's no shit. I need to lose a solid 40 pounds (currently 215 lbs at 5' 7" ... my healthiest weight is right at 175 lbs, I'm broad shouldered). I've been on non-narcotic nerve pain meds since January of this year ... listed side affects say "may cause weight loss" .... and ... "may cause weight gain" .... WTF over?

GEEZ!!!

:laugh::laugh:

Pic taken about fifteen years ago .... my wife and I ... yes, I blinked! I put on this damned weight about 18 months ago ... dang old meds!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #48
CRACKED TERMI SLIP ON

Well well ... so it looks as though I needed to replace the slip ons anyway! I removed the Termignonis that came installed on the bike when I bought it. Turns out one of them is cracked. Just the thought of it breaking free of the bike on a two lane highway and the rogue chunk doing end over end flips at 75mph and going through an on coming traffic windshield is enough to create Pucker Factor of 10.0!

WEIGHTS:
I weighed the stock Ducati slip ons, the Termis, and the new GPRs on our postal scale. All three slip ons had the link pipe included when weighed.

** Stock = (1) 7 pounds, 2.5 ounces ... (2) 14 pounds, 5 ounces.
** Termi = (1) 4 pounds, 5 ounces ... (2) 8 pounds, 10 ounces.
** GPR Deeptone INOX = (1) 3 pounds, 13.6 ounces ... (2) 7 pounds, 7 ounces.

Note that the GPR had the DB Killer removed.

So while the pair of GPRs are just 1 pound 3 ounces lighter than two Termis (and HALF the weight of the stock bazooka shooters), stainless steel is hills and valleys more durable than carbon fiber. And I feel these GPRs look a lot better than the Termis. Subject to personal tastes, of course.

Pics = cracked Termi.
 

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I had to split this entry up into two postings because the images exceeded the maximum size limit. See the previous post for "Part 1".

They look great. They'll be very temporarily stored inside until new fuel hoses show up. No sense in leaving them out in the heat while I wait on fuel lines, right?

GPR DEEPTONE INOX SLIP ONS:

The red bike depicts the "link pipes" I actually ordered.

The yellow bike depicts the "link pipes" that I actually received.

I'm glad that GPR either screwed up (or second guessed my order). The angled mufflers (yellow bike) will work out far better than that "S" shaped link pipe rig (red bike).


ONE OTHER THING - ANYONE KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THESE FRAME SUPPORTS ("FRAME BRACE")?:

*** Another member suggested installing a frame brace made by BBB Fabrications (see image #6).

*** I located what seems to be another fab shop in the UK that makes what appear to be the same type of bolt on brace. Anyone know anything about that company and/or that brace? (see images #7, 8, and 9). I think it's an independent fabrication shop.

*** Which looks a lot like what is labeled as a "Steve Bailey Frame Brace (image #10) ?????

Any help?

Thank you!
Man those carbs look like new!
 

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ANYONE KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THESE FRAME SUPPORTS
BBB Fabrications & Steve Bailey are one & the same.

I´ll start this off with a very firm In my experience, I would steer very clear. I thought I´d try one of these braces too but once he had my money, I never heard back from him despite repeated attempts to contact him. Last email I sent was rejected by the server saying email address unknown or something like that. Not to say others on here have had the same experience though & I have read quite the opposite on him, but he ripped me off so I´d not bother...
 

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Well I can say this--I talked to Steve about a month ago, He said that he is not doing this full time anymore as he has taken a job elsewhere, especially since these bikes are getting older and the orders have been getting fewer. I needed the frame brace & a set of high pipe mounts--He did not have any ready at the time but told me he would have them within 2 weeks--He emailed me back about 2-2 1/2 weeks later said they were ready. I paid him and within 10 day's the parts arrived here in the U.S. from the UK no problems what so ever. Now I did not sit around and wait for a message on this forum--I freeking called him on the phone, we talked and then went thru personal emails. --I would have absolutely no reservations purchasing something else from Steve @ BBB. Fabrications. Just know he does not have nor keep much sitting on the shelf anymore because people are not purchasing parts for these older bikes as much as they did years ago. So if you have to have it right now--he may not be able to supply it, But if your a normal sane reasonable person, Steve is a great resource. That's my 2 cents worth
 

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I didn't call him at all. Just worked with him using email and I had a similar experience. I emailed him, he emailed me back, I PayPal'd him the money for the part, plus shipping and had my frame brace in about 10 days. No issues with him at all.

Another guy here in the SF Bay Area also had a similar experience but ended up selling his Supersport before installing the high pipes and pipe mounts. He sold them to me so they'll be going on my project bike.

Steve was highly recommended on the Superlight Registry though there are no longer links to his business on there......sean
 

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Discussion Starter #53
More parts came in:

It's been WAY TOO FEKKING HOT to work on the bike, it was 122 today! No kiddin! A hundred and twenty two! Ta hell with that jazz! It's about ten minutes before midnight right now, and it's STILL 96 friggin degrees outside.

Movin on ...

The order from Motowheels arrived a few days back. The case saver, Exact Fit Belts, Heavy Duty Battery Cable kit. They ship SO FAST!

The BBB Fab frame brace is due to land inside of about another week.

Next up will be Galfer braided stainless front brake lines, and a front "steering stem" bike stand. I'll do the clutch line at the same time that the Oberon clutch slave is done. I'll do the rear brake line and rear bike stand after the clutch. Wee bits at a time as munnies allows.

Also next up when I get the front brake lines will be a used Yamaha R1 voltage regulator/rectifier (PN# FH012AA). Best I can figure it's about the best one going for retrofitting to the 2 valve '96 900CR, and will help to keep that new Anti Gravity LIon battery I bought in shape. There seems to be specific year ranges of the R1 VR that are best suited. There are some little bits-n-niggles that will be needed as well (connectors et al).

I got the VR uprate suggestions from Member *RockAZ who took the time to coach me quite a bit, and ultimately the infos I picked up in these two threads specifically regarding the Yamaha R1 VR....

LINK =
https://www.ducati.ms/forums/80-hall-wisdom/94947-upgrade-fix-no-more-charging-regulator-rectifier-problems.html

LINK =
https://www.ducati.ms/forums/56-superbikes/717127-regulator-differences-lithium-battery.html

(HA! ... who says I'm too stupid to use the search function!) :rolleyes: ;)



Thanks super big time to Member *RockAZ for the helps. :wink2:
 

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Was stationed in Yuma and checked in in 1995 when it was a record 124 so I feel you there. Enjoying my first summer back in San Diego after living in Tucson for the past 17 years. I can actually work on bikes during days now. :grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Was stationed in Yuma and checked in in 1995 when it was a record 124 so I feel you there. Enjoying my first summer back in San Diego after living in Tucson for the past 17 years. I can actually work on bikes during days now. :grin2:
Ha! I was stationed in Tucson and moved here! How ironic.

:laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #56
I just heard from Steve Bailey at BBB Fab regarding the frame brace I paid for.

(quoting)

"Hello Brian
sorry about this but I have been unwell so have not managed to get to making your brace until today
Regards Steve"

(end quote)

It's really no issue, the shipping date was anywhere between July 17 and July 31. I bought it through eBay, his account has 100% positive feedback rating with 976 transactions. I am totally not worried. Not even a little bit.




FRONT END:

I've been trying to put together a proper list of parts needed to build up a better front suspension system. I'm pretty hot on going with a GSX1000R front fork setup (sticks, calipers, and whatever else is needed to make it work, such as front wheel, triple clamps, adaptive steering head bearings, et al).

I guess the idea is to have 43mm fork sticks, larger diameter front axle, and of course more internals options. So I'm still working on gathering the information to put one of these front ends together. Hopefully the Suzuki front wheel is lighter than the stock 1996 Ducati 900CR front wheel.





So the combination of:


** Steve Bailey frame brace.
** CNC machined aluminum chain adjusters.
** Nichols Frame bolt assembly.
** Beefier front suspension with heftier front axle.
** Regearing (sprocket changes). ... this is optional ... it all depends on how the bike feels to me geared as stock.

... will make the motorcycle a more rigid "bridge" between the two wheels. It may also offer better suspension in the process, creating greater confidence and control. The rear suspension will also be dealt with along the way.



Why? Because I want to do it. No different than ~why~ someone spends far more money on the motorcycle of their choosing. I like optimizing things to greater potential. The neatest thing is that all of these upgrades are 100% reversible ... so putting the bike back to stock will always be an option.

In case whoever is reading this hasn't read my previously posted philosophy on putting this together, my first priority is safety and reliability. These lofty ideas about bettering the bike above the original engineering will come after I get the bike on it's wheels. Upgrades such as front and rear suspension changes will be dealt with later along the way.

BONZAI !! :wink2:
 

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I think you should ride it first, but there is no harm in asking veterans what worked 20 years ago as this knowledge may well fade away by the time you get around to using it.

Some felt the CR forks felt wooden, especially when warm. Other heavier people, like us, felt it bounced too much. In my experience, a lot has to do with tire choice/pressure, sag settings and where you put the forks in the triple clamp balanced with rear shock tuning. Variables, lots of factors in the setup and the riding style both. Simply getting linear springs matched to the riders weight makes a world of difference, especially under hard braking. To get further performance with it you have oil weight choices, air gap, etc to fiddle with - all of which are time consuming messy procedures.

I like to take a late entry, hook the corner by banging the bike over quick and get the turn done so I can set it up and accelerate out of the corner. The stock CR fork won't like that. Gradual apex approach and exit on smooth pavement under very moderate braking with no sudden suspension upsets and those stock forks work fine, imo,... The CR fork is not made to handle a lot of violence, either from the rider or the road surface, imo. Upgraded forks that have been dialed in per rider preference should handle it all without compromise or fuss, but the CR fork can be tuned to fit the majority of conditions - its just not going to be flexible outside of what you tune it for.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
I think you should ride it first, but there is no harm in asking veterans what worked 20 years ago as this knowledge may well fade away by the time you get around to using it.
Thanks. As you probably know by now all I'm doing right off the get is getting the bike safe and reliable. This other pie in the sky stuff is just learning the 3 dimensions of the machine that I have to work with when that box full of $100 bills falls out of the sky and lands in my lap.


... the CR fork can be tuned to fit the majority of conditions - its just not going to be flexible outside of what you tune it for.
Truthfully speaking, that is all I've ever known. Oil weight, air space, spring rate, preload. Ta Da!

One thing I would like to experiment with is making hollow and solid spring spacers in different lengths (0.5" .. 1.0" .. 2.0") to make changing the preload and air space an easier task. Combining solid spacers with hollow spacers in ~stacks~ allows for fewer options (rather than messing with let's say 5cc of oil at a time) that make things easier to move in defined steps. Especially when doing empirical testing and adjustments. It's something I was fiddling with a few years ago but never got to really dig in to testing.

If a set of Racetech (or Works Performance) springs come with (let's say) a 4 inch spacer, there's the "Zero Point" that can always be fallen back on. If I load a 3 inch hollow spacer stacked with a 1 inch solid spacer, I've changed the air space but not the preload. That's just one example, but the point is made. It's something I've always wanted to experiment with. I have a lathe, and 3 foot lengths of 1.0 inch diameter Delrin is inexpensive. I can also just make solid spacers from Delrin and hollow ones out of PVC pipe. The idea seems like it would be a less messy means of fiddling with air space and preload. There's plenty of ways to really fine tune things without having to drain/refill the legs with oil, measuring air space, and so on. The trick is to create simple hard line steps in the process. Limit the hole size to two or three I.D.'s, and work with defined lengths (0.5" perhaps, maybe 1.0") for example.

Removal of the hollow spacers would be quite simple if changes are needed ... an "L" shaped hook inserted into the spacers could be used to pull them out. A small 0.125" hole drilled in each hollow spacer would facilitate removal as well, so the L-hook tool has something to hook on to for removal. Something can be worked out for the solid spacers just as easily. Whatever, you get the idea.

Bla bla bla ...


Meanwhile, back on Earth:

The weather has cooled a bit, it was only 109 yesterday. That's handle-able. So my brother and I can get started with a few things. I need to work up a means to secure the new Anti Grav battery, and install the heavy duty battery cables. A trip to NAPA Auto Parts for new fuel lines is needed. I'm ordering the Yamaha R1 voltage regulator this morning so wiring that up will be another task. Before that is installed, I'll put the old lead acid battery back in to get the bike running on the refurbed carbs. Once I'm satisfied, I'll wire in the the R1 VR and install the Anti Grav. One thing at a time, right?

Also, I'm signed up for the Az Motorcycle course, August 10 and 11. *Fargin thing starts at 05:00am. I'll be using one of their bikes.



*Anyone remember that movie called "Johnny Dangerously" ... that bad guy "Maroney" that had that goofball accent? "You fargin icehole!" ... "Bastiches" ... "Bullshtein" ... "summina benches"

:laugh::laugh::laugh:

Here's 2 minutes of highlights ...."You fargin sneaky bastich! I gonna take-ah your dwork; I gonna nail it to da wall! I gonna cash your boils in a meat grinder! I gonna cut offah you arms; I gonna shove 'em up your ice hole! Dundee suminabatch! My own club!"

 

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Discussion Starter #59
Not that it has much to do with this project, but I knocked out Day 1 of the MST today. It started at 4:45am and finished at 3:30pm. Took the written as well. Tomorrow is Day 2 ... 4:45am start time again, but knocks off at 10:00am. Today was riding from start to 10am, then class room and written test from 11:15 am to 3:30pm. Tomorrow is just all riding.

It was "hot as" today during riding, and tomorrow will be no different.

I am BAGGED! And Sunburned!

Tonight, lots of fluids, electrolites, and some carbs for dinner.

Movin' on!

:smile2:

.
 

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Picked my bike up from the mechanic. Rebuilt stnd carbs and installed a Dynojet Stage II kit. It goes like a rocket now, it seems to be a different bike. No sputtering and jerking at low speed, revving freer at all RPMs, and no riders behind complaining about the smell of the fumes (I advised the whiners to get in front of me if they don't like sniffing petrol LOL). Smooth from idle to WOT.

(from memory) The mech. said that, among other problems, the springs were too tight due to the washer, plate, clip, etc, were previously installed (by a monkey it appears) in reverse order causing the spring to be too stiff. No wonder it had the aforementioned terrible symptoms.

Don't ask what size jets, etc, were used as I dunno, didn't ask him. I only care about the fact that it now moves like wet shit flinging off a shovel.

Now on to having the shit rear shock rebuilt and install the 1000SS DS swingarm that I have laying around.
And a new rear Diablo Rosso Corsa II next week.
 
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