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Discussion Starter #1
BIKE PURCHASE THREAD LINK = https://www.ducati.ms/forums/57-supersport/722869-t-minus-5-hours-buying-96-900cr-today.html

PROLOGUE:

Ok, so I bought the bike, I've had some basic questions about a few basic things answered very graciously by the generous folks of this fantastic membership, and I've made enough decisions about how I am going to move forward with this project to begin building some momentum.

Let It Begin! :smile2:

DE-SHITTING THE STOCK CARBS:

The first thing that requires attention is what to do about the gummed up fuel system. The previous owner put the bike up in Winter of 2018 and forgot to drain the carbs and fuel tank prior to storing the bike. The carbs are gooped and non functional, the fuel tank is rust free, but it has some varnish near the bottom. The previous owner had filled the tank with gas a few weeks ago in hopes fresh fuel would help in diluting some of the poop in the bottom.

Initially I wanted to replace the 23 year old carbs with Keihin FCR41s (the $1400.00 kit which includes new Motion Pro throttle cables, a Motion Pro twist throttle assembly, a K&N air filter, and the bits and nibbles needed to mount the carbs). Rather, I've decided to have the stock carbs rebuilt. I'm using "Gordon" of Custom Carb Services for the carb rebuild. Gordon is one of our members here in Ducati.ms, and he came with very high recommendation by a number of forum members. I'll leave the fresh gasoline in the tank after I've removed it to allow for as much dilution of the crappy cruddy poopy goop at the bottom as possible. Pictures and hand drawn diagrams of the hose connections and routings will be done to assist with reassembly when the carbs are returned to me.

FIRST PURCHASE OF SOME NEW GOODIES MADE:

I've been reading a lot of threads about the 900 CR and various things other 900CR owners have done to improve their bikes, and taken note on things I wish to do. One of those things is replacing the stamped steel guide plates that the rear axle goes through which acts as a wheel alignment guide when adjusting the chain's tension or reinstalling the rear wheel. Apparently, that stock gold colored stamped steel "guide plate" is fonky, wonky, and stinky. It tends to rotate out of position when the axle nut is tightened to specified torque, scratching the piss out of the swingin' arm in the process. The preferred cure for this is to replace the stamped steel guide with a pair of machined aluminum guides made by Moto Techniques and they're called Chain Adjuster Plates.

So it seems those are somewhat difficult to come by these days. I got lucky as hell and located a pair of them on eBay, New Old Stock ("NOS"), and still in their original packaging. The seller had exactly one pair, and no more to be had. I paid $86.98 for the pair, shipped. See attached pics. Before I ordered them, I measured the swingin' arm to make certain these plates would fit. The listed dimensions are (quoting their eBay ad) "Measured about 1 15/16" (1.9375") between the internal sides and 11/16" (0.6875") hole diameter". My swingarm measured 1.925" +/- .. and the axle holes measured at 0.692" +/- ... well within required specs. I hit them with the Paypal number, and snagged them before they were gone!

:yeah: ... :yeah: ... :yeah:

Next to purchase will be clutch, fr brake, rr brake braided stainless steel ... Teflon lined ... plastic coated hydraulic lines ("Galfer"), and a pair of new cam timing belts ("Exact Fit"). I'll be posting pics of teardown and carb removal as I get to that. For now, we're starting with this initial entry into this project photo journal.

I expect this project thread to run well into the Fall of this year (2019) with several (many?) pages... so get comfortable, make some popcorn, poor a pint, and hang on for the ride!

Enough bla bla bla .... I'm hittin the ~SUBMIT NEW THREAD~ button!

L8R SK8RS !!!!

:smile2:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
GPR Deeptone Inox slip ons.

I just contacted the good folks at GPR (exhaust manufacturers). Surprisingly enough, they actually wrote back at this time of night! They're piecing together something for me that isn't listed in their on line catalog. I may know something by Monday re; one of their Deeptone Inox slip on kits. See pics.

I really like how the "link pipe" (the pipe between the stock headers and the muffler) is that it clears the pilot's boot heel pretty well. That "S" shape is the key.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
More GPR Deeptones .. and .. Quarter Fairings.

... now that I'm looking for them, there are more of those GPR Deeptone Inox set ups than I first thought. Several configurations as well (high pipes, low pipes) ...

... I really like the fairings on the yellow bike and the orange bike. So the yellow one has both the fairing and stingers I am into.

... I figure if I use a fairing mount from the 1000 SS to attach to the actual fairing, and the fairing mount from the '96 900 CR to mount to the motorcycle's frame ... I can then weld the two fairing mounts to each other to create a fairing mount that adapts the 1000 SS style quarter fairing to the '96 900 CR bike frame. Easy peasy. Then it becomes a matter of working out what I want to do about headlight(s).

Things are beginning to take shape in my mind's eye. :nerd:

I've been playing with all of this long enough tonight ... time to hit the sack.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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Rex coil 7, I learned a bit about tanks during my resto. Im not sure what you have in your tank, but I would look deep with a mirror and flashlight. If you are seeing any signs of discoloring or rust I would use Evaporust. I did a 4 day soak which mine really needed. My tank looked horrible and I removed a lot of rust pieces and sludge. I used 3 gallons and rotated the tank every few hours. You wont need to do this long of a soak to clean your tank up like new. The stuff is amazing and much easier on the metal finish than a full acid etch.

I know you don't need to just FYI...I would not use POR15 or Kreem after reading horror stories. I have been told by my mechanic that the epoxy coating can lift after 2 years causing worse problems with the entire fuel feed system and the carbs.
 

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Re getting you carbs back on.
Gordon did a stellar job on mine too. Very impressed with all the "work in progress" photos he sent along and the final result I got back.
Found the bottom cable hook-up to require more hands/fingers then I could manage. So, I made up a quick "essential tool" to hold the throttle blades wide open - out of a coat hanger no less. This makes it much easier.
Also, hope you didn't remove the crankcase breaker hose from the air box. Easier to disconnect it back where the clamp is. It's a "free running press fit" and once off the reinstall will get you searching for more lubricants than are likely meal discussions..
Good luck and I'm following your progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you, Member *Finally Home .... good info there. I've not removed the carbs yet because it's been so frelling HOT here the last few days. We're under a severe weather warning until tomorrow, expected highs are to hit or exceed 115 degrees (perhaps as high as 120+), with lows in the upper 80s. It's almost 7:00am right now, and it's currently 84 degrees. Yuk.

Movin on ....

I contacted GPR, got the pipes thing squared away. I paid for the Deeptone Inox set and am expecting them inside of 10 days or so. I've heard how they sound on a couple/few videos .... shall I share? Sure, why not! Short little vids, about 1 minute long each. Man, the smartphone microphones sure pick up the clutch rattle! But the sound of the Deeptones is pretty cool.






I'm also deeply considering retrofitting the quarter fairing from the post 1997 "Pierre" SS. I may add an LED lightbar beneath the "chin" of the quarter fairing since the highways and roads out here can be dark as pitch, especially when there is no moon. Some further research on those ideas is required.

And the billet adjuster plates I bought are due in by this coming Thursday (day after tomorrow).

It feels as though things are moving at a snail's pace ... but that's just because I'm itching to get things rolling!!

Another thing that has my attention is how using a 120/70/17 front tire gives the bike that lovely early 1980s AMA Superbike look. Those old bikes used a 16 inch front wheel and an 18 inch rear wheel. That configuration was adopted by all 4 Jap bike makers, as well as Ducati and BMW. The idea was the smaller front wheel made the 500+ pound street bikes more nimble with better turn-in. All I know is I LOVE the look. Well, if you look at the thumbnail of the 750SS attached below you can see how the visual illusion makes it appear as though it has the 16 inch front and 18 inch rear. You don't even need to expand the thumbnail to a larger image to see the effect. Me likes! I attached a pic of one of the 80's machines for contrast. Well, actually two images. I couldn't resist the picture of Freddy Spencer at the 1985 Daytona (first year that Daytona was a 200 mile race). He's on the throttle and the rear end is just stepping out a little bit. Killer!

Uh ... and one more of a Moriwaki ... y'know ... just cuz. Another 16 inch front set up.

One last issue; since I allowed my bike license to lapse years ago, my wife and I will be signing up for the Arizona motorcycle safety class. I think the deal is if you pass the course your "M" addendum is issued without having to deal with the DMV hassles. I'll verify that and post an update.

Ok, boring entry this time. More to come soon!!

:smile2: ... Rex.
 

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Just a suggestion. If you haven't sent your carbs off yet you might want to pick up a Haynes manual and a set of rebuild kits off of ebay, mine were $44.00 for both. Its not hard to do a carb rebuild...really. Just watch some YT videos and grind some small flat heads to the exact sizes, if needed to remove parts.

-Take pics as you go
-Write down any size markings on needles, jets...etc.
-The rebuild kit will or should have the same #s.
-use carb cleaner on everything metal, not on plastic or rubber.
 

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One last issue; since I allowed my bike license to lapse years ago, my wife and I will be signing up for the Arizona motorcycle safety class. I think the deal is if you pass the course your "M" addendum is issued without having to deal with the DMV hassles. I'll verify that and post an update.
Im sort of hoping this means you have not driven a Ducati yet! You will love it when you are done.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just a suggestion. If you haven't sent your carbs off yet you might want to pick up a Haynes manual and a set of rebuild kits off of ebay, mine were $44.00 for both. Its not hard to do a carb rebuild...really. Just watch some YT videos and grind some small flat heads to the exact sizes, if needed to remove parts.
Thank you for the information and suggestion! I'll look into that.

:smile2:
 

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Thank you for the information and suggestion! I'll look into that.

:smile2:
Doing a carb rebuild is really easy. If you don't unrack them you don't have to re-sync it. If you do need to break them (leaky fuel rail on mine) you can buy a sync tool for $50 on amazon or fleabay. You can also make one.

Pre-clean:



Post clean on the right, pre on the left:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
... dang me .... I want to get to work on this bike! But it's been so frelling HOT.

It was 122 degrees today ... it's 11:14pm and it's still 97 degrees.

C'mon Muthuh Nature .... this hot spell is putting a kink in my moto project!


Arg! :|
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Corbin Gunfighter seat for the 900SS/CR.

Sweet ..... $500 bucks, still sweet.

Calls out to the modified stock seats on the early 1980s AMA Superbikes. Often times the rear part of the seat behind the rider's "scoop" was actually a metal box that had seat upholstery covering it to make the lightweight aluminum box behind the rider appear as though it were part of the seat. The rules back then dictated that the tail light had to be operational. So instead of taxing the alternator to comply with that task they'd run the tail light from a 9 volt battery that was housed in the box behind the rider's rump. Clever.

Yea .... Corbin Gunfighter .... sweet.

Rear-most portion of the seat in black instead of red .... sweeter!

Now just mount a pair of AMA approved rhombus shaped white number plates on each side of the seat ... sweeter yet! Check #21 and #31.

Oh hells yea. Big huge thumbs up!

:smile2: :smile2: :smile2:
 

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Corbin Gunfighter seat for the 900SS/CR.

Sweet ..... $500 bucks, still sweet.

Calls out to the modified stock seats on the early 1980s AMA Superbikes. Often times the rear part of the seat behind the rider's "scoop" was actually a metal box that had seat upholstery covering it to make the lightweight aluminum box behind the rider appear as though it were part of the seat. The rules back then dictated that the tail light had to be operational. So instead of taxing the alternator to comply with that task they'd run the tail light from a 9 volt battery that was housed in the box behind the rider's rump. Clever.

Yea .... Corbin Gunfighter .... sweet.

Rear-most portion of the seat in black instead of red .... sweeter!

Now just mount a pair of AMA approved rhombus shaped white number plates on each side of the seat ... sweeter yet! Check #21 and #31.

Oh hells yea. Big huge thumbs up!

:smile2: :smile2: :smile2:
Here is the Corbin you are talking about. Its pretty soft too. I am having the Superlight solo seat with the number badge and small decals made soon.
 

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FYI I have a customer who has a Karbacher seat/carbon solo tail he is going to be selling soon. I think he plans on posting in the classifieds soon so keep an eye out. It came off his early carby SS and I was tempted to buy the bike to get the seat unit!. Rare cool vintage part and it looks good in red with a carbon stripe IIRC.

Keep in mind most aftermarket seats are dished so they are often a improvement for setting in the center of the seat and not moving, poor if you try and get your but off the seat. For a tourer you might love them but if the bikes role is a weekend back road weapon or trackday bike I would rather stay oem.
 

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FYI I have a customer who has a Karbacher seat/carbon solo tail he is going to be selling soon. I think he plans on posting in the classifieds soon so keep an eye out. It came off his early carby SS and I was tempted to buy the bike to get the seat unit!. Rare cool vintage part and it looks good in red with a carbon stripe IIRC.

Keep in mind most aftermarket seats are dished so they are often a improvement for setting in the center of the seat and not moving, poor if you try and get your but off the seat. For a tourer you might love them but if the bikes role is a weekend back road weapon or trackday bike I would rather stay oem.

Thanks Ducvet, Ill keep and eye out. He may have a quick sale here. I am getting ready to purchase mine now but haven't as of today. I would like to see an example of it if you still have a pic.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
...Keep in mind most aftermarket seats are dished so they are often a improvement for setting in the center of the seat and not moving, poor if you try and get your but off the seat. For a tourer you might love them but if the bikes role is a weekend back road weapon or trackday bike I would rather stay oem.
Excellent point.

:smile2:

Might be wise to have both on hand. One for trips, one for hot rodding around. As easy as it is to remove/install the seat assembly on these bikes, it makes a lot of sense to have both types available if trips and track days are both on one's schedule.
 

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Finally Pulled The Carbs.

OK, I waited until the weather was half-assed livable to remove the carbs (it was "only" 110f today). I had to watch a few videos since the service manual is vague as hell about removing them. I will say that there are some real idiots out there making videos of "how to" issues on these air cooled Ducatis.

:laugh: "Have Berrymans, will fuddup my carbs in the driveway". :laugh:

In any case, once I worked out the order of disassembly things went ok. I feel I need to mention that THEM CARBS STANK! They're not the worst I've seen, I used to own/operate an authorized factory warranty and repair center for several brands of emergency power/portable/RV generators. At least fifty times per year we'd have someone come in with an RV that had a generator that was not running. Nearly to the one it was due to the owners not running their gens at least once per month under load for about an hour ... resulting in gunked carb trouble. Some of them were pretty awful.

These carbs are about up there with the top 20% of "the worst" I've seen. And did I mention that ....


THEY FLIPPIN STANK-ASS!?? :laugh:

*** Those rubber hold-down straps that secure the battery are also junk. So those need to be replaced as well.

*** The little machined swingarm plates came in as well. I'll get to installing them along the way here.

*** While the bike is opened up I'm going to replace as many of the hoses as I can (just cuz). And I may as well rewire the 12v systems while I'm at it. After I removed the BATT NEG first, when I went to remove the positive from the batt it became clear that terminal had overheated a few times. Under-gauged wiring is what I blame that on.

*** So, letting the carbs "dry out" a little bit (one day should do the trick), then they're off to my chosen carb refurbish service person. I reckon about two weeks, perhaps three, of total time turnaround.

*** Stored the seat in the house, away from our cats. Cats love to claw into motorcycle seats. They just love it.

*** The fuel tank is very full with fresh gas to help dilute/dissolve any remaining lacquer that may have formed in the tank while the previous owner stored the bike in his garage between November 2018 to the 1st week in June when I bought the bike. We'll drain that gas and refill it before reinstalling it on the bike. But for now, it's full of two week old fuel.

*** New fuel lines and clamps wouldn't be a bad idea, especially on a 23 year old motorcycle.

*** The intake "boots" that connect the carbs to the intake manifolds look to be in serviceable condition, so I'll probably not replace those.


~FIN~
 

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