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1993 900 SS - issues and niggles

33359 Views 356 Replies 28 Participants Last post by  Helgeduc
Late last year I bought a 1993 Ducati 900 SS with 52000km from a German, private seller. He was the second owner, with the bike having been registered to the first owner for 24 years, The seller had ridden the bike for a mere 2000km. She was in pretty good condition visually: clean, mostly stock with all original parts available, as well as some carbon fibre aftermarket parts (front fender, rear hugger, sprocket cover). I like originality in a bike - at least if I do not wish to modify - and for this bike originality was higher on the list of "must haves" than lower miles, etc. She also came with additional parts (gaskets, spark plugs, carbs) as well as manuals and specific tools (head bolt wrench, clutch basket holder,...).

The seller claimed she was "dry", with the exception of a little oil weep at the rear cylinder. I checked for frame cracks or indications that the bike had been down harder than just a tip over. Nothing. According to the seller, he had to replace the swing arm. The well known cracks. He also mentioned that he had broken off the turn signal control stalk and replaced the left side control unit. He also had exchanged the footpeg hangers with the black colored ones from a later model (this is one of only two items, where the original part was not included in the deal).

When we tried to start the bike for a test ride, the brandnew Li-ion battery was dead. Odd, but hey... We fitted a standard battery and I tried to take off. And stalled the bike - pretty rough clutch, but these bikes are known for them, after all!? We got her running and I took off. And did not get too far. After a couple of kms she started to hickup and eventually died on me. One thing I noticed was how noisy the bike was: the stock cans had at the time of the initial purchase been replaced by open BOS exhausts - and I still wonder how the bike EVER made it through the German TUEV technical control...

Based on how the bike had behaved before it died on me, I suspected having run out of gas and called the seller. When he arrived, it became clear that the fuel punp was not running, which could be traced to a blown fuse. Replacing the fuse did not remedy matters, so we suspected a dead fuel pump, loaded her up and I used the issue as a bargaining chip to reduce the price some.

I brought her home and started to go through her. I'll use this post to describe what I found and learned - I have found similar posts (and the many helpful replies I received when I asked for help) very helpful. I hope this one will achieve the same.
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I am also going to have a hard look at the vertical cylinder / head interface as that was leaking when I tore the engine down.
Everything else seems ok. No more smoke when firing up the engine so the heads are sorted now.
That sucks, sorry to hear it. Not going to make you feel any better but we all make mistakes and hopefully learn from them.
It‘s life - I know I was taking a risk. But I have never had a problem with a gasket so far. Oh well…
I hope that I will be faster this time round - all tools are there now and I will hopefully only need a small number of parts.
So know that if you use sealer for the case gasket you need to re-shim or at least check it, I would use sealer myself. Be careful not to rush the re-do because it is a re-do , be patient or walk away for a breath.
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.....I would use sealer myself....
⬆ This!
...be patient or walk away for a breath.
And this. Walking away has saved me from screwing up a frustrating repair MANY times.

Sorry to hear you have issues but I'm sure you'll get it right soon.
Just curious, where is it leaking from? If you don’t mind, would you post images?

Where the horizontal tunnel is. Looks like a point leak. And as I said, I can see broken gasket inside the tunnel.
And no: it is not misaligned and there is no crack :)
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So know that if you use sealer for the case gasket you need to re-shim or at least check it, I would use sealer myself. Be careful not to rush the re-do because it is a re-do , be patient or walk away for a breath.
I would definitely have to reshim gear box and crank (per the measurements I took “last time“). That was one reason why I decided to use the gasket.
View attachment 1067348
Where the horizontal tunnel is. Looks like a point leak. And as I said, I can see broken gasket inside the tunnel.
And no: it is not misaligned and there is no crack :)
I didn't even know it could leak from there, but reading your description, it kind of makes sense...
I didn't even know it could leak from there, but reading your description, it kind of makes sense...
I‘ll probably know for sure once I open it up….
Did you do a compression test?
That should tell you if the head seal if at fault.
Did you do a compression test?
That should tell you if the head seal if at fault.
I did before I tore her down when she was leaking and it was ok. As said: hopefully I‘ll be able to pinpont the source once I open her up (again). After all, she is really clean now and only ran for 10‘ or so…
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All connections severed, clutch out, carbs off, still need to disconnect the oil cooler. Currently draining the oil. After that I will be ready to drop the engine and start disassembly.
I will not have time to work on the bike for a week, but hope to get the engine out week after next.

I expect that the crank will sit very tightly in the main bearings - I had to install it cold to get it in easily. I am considering to use cold spray to cool the crank for (hopefully) easier disassembly.

Any great tricks to help with this part of the disassembly?
I guess the only option you have is to use the cold spray and see if the crank comes out with a few hits from a drift hammer. Since it's such a tight fit in the bearing, I'd be concerned that the shaft is all the way in and that the inner race is in contact with the shims. My output shaft was a tight fit in the bearing and I used some 800 grit sandpaper to polish it up until it fit nicely. It took some time, but eventually I was able to slide it in easily.
I'm guessing you're going with a liquid gasket between the cases, and this is why you need the crankshaft out to re-shim?
I would feel uncomfortable sanding down the crank. I‘d be worried getting it out of true.
I‘ll need at least one side out so that I can take the broken gasket out (and inspect it - I really want to know how I screwed this up…).
3
I took off the oil filter today. Once all oil is out I will pull the engine. I also took off the horizontal head to take a look at the area where I noticed black liquid leakage.



I think it shows that the o-rings are doing their job and also the new welch plugs appear leak tight. The little black liquid in the lower welch plug stems from the area above (the oil is fresh and still red).

BUT: there is clearly a black oily liquid at the mating face between cylinder and head. The pistonrings were in spec when I measured them.
One can also see a little of a rough surface at the mating side of the head. Aluminum oxide formation could lead to those areas being slightly elevated. Could this be the cause of the leak? If so, why did the compression test check out reasonably ok?

How can I visually show that the mating face is not planar any more? Some special ink?

Would it make sense to use fine valve lapping paste to try improve the seal?

Any advice will be welcome, but specifically that of @belter and @ducvet as both of you see so many engines via your business.

Thanks a lot to everybody in advance!!
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Yes lap the head and cylinder together I use a 320 or 270 grit paste.
Is the black liquid oil or fuel and carbon mix?
Yes lap the head and cylinder together I use a 320 or 270 grit paste.
Is the black liquid oil or fuel and carbon mix?
I can‘t tell easily. If I had to guess I would say fuel plus oily carbon.
The carbon deposit in the cylinder / head from the short run is fairly oily and easily comes off with brake disc cleaner. So I think that a little fuel would suspend the coke and lead to a black liquid. It does not smell like my oil (I put in Motul which has some fragrance type smell to it).

Thanks, will lap the two surfaces!
Vertical head is off now as well. All welch plugs dry (hurrah!) and black liquid on the piston / on the mating surface. I believe that the liquid on the mating surface was sucked there when I pulled off the head.

Since I have the same black liquid here as on the horizontal, I will assume it is oily carbon plus some fuel residue. Which in turn would indicate that my horizontal cylinder / head mating area is not sealing perfectly anymore.

I hope that lapping per ducvet‘s advice will eventually solve the weeping issue.

Next step is to prep the engine for splitting of the case halfs.
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Engine is ready for splitting of the cases. Second time is much faster than first :cool:
Not unexpectedly (but still not welcome) the halves do not separate voluntarily. On Tuesday I will attempt to cool down the crank selectively and get the halves separated.
If that fails, I may have to go the opposite way and heat the cases to 100C or so in the hope that that will help. I have access to fairly large ovens at work. And now that I think of it, to liquid nitrogen, too. That may be an option to selectively cool the crank as well (just have to be careful not to go too low).

Fun times :mad:
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