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1993 900 SS - issues and niggles

33340 Views 356 Replies 28 Participants Last post by  Helgeduc
Late last year I bought a 1993 Ducati 900 SS with 52000km from a German, private seller. He was the second owner, with the bike having been registered to the first owner for 24 years, The seller had ridden the bike for a mere 2000km. She was in pretty good condition visually: clean, mostly stock with all original parts available, as well as some carbon fibre aftermarket parts (front fender, rear hugger, sprocket cover). I like originality in a bike - at least if I do not wish to modify - and for this bike originality was higher on the list of "must haves" than lower miles, etc. She also came with additional parts (gaskets, spark plugs, carbs) as well as manuals and specific tools (head bolt wrench, clutch basket holder,...).

The seller claimed she was "dry", with the exception of a little oil weep at the rear cylinder. I checked for frame cracks or indications that the bike had been down harder than just a tip over. Nothing. According to the seller, he had to replace the swing arm. The well known cracks. He also mentioned that he had broken off the turn signal control stalk and replaced the left side control unit. He also had exchanged the footpeg hangers with the black colored ones from a later model (this is one of only two items, where the original part was not included in the deal).

When we tried to start the bike for a test ride, the brandnew Li-ion battery was dead. Odd, but hey... We fitted a standard battery and I tried to take off. And stalled the bike - pretty rough clutch, but these bikes are known for them, after all!? We got her running and I took off. And did not get too far. After a couple of kms she started to hickup and eventually died on me. One thing I noticed was how noisy the bike was: the stock cans had at the time of the initial purchase been replaced by open BOS exhausts - and I still wonder how the bike EVER made it through the German TUEV technical control...

Based on how the bike had behaved before it died on me, I suspected having run out of gas and called the seller. When he arrived, it became clear that the fuel punp was not running, which could be traced to a blown fuse. Replacing the fuse did not remedy matters, so we suspected a dead fuel pump, loaded her up and I used the issue as a bargaining chip to reduce the price some.

I brought her home and started to go through her. I'll use this post to describe what I found and learned - I have found similar posts (and the many helpful replies I received when I asked for help) very helpful. I hope this one will achieve the same.
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Very nice progress, I’ve been enjoying watching your progress.

Years ago I used modeling clay to measure valve to piston clearance on my old GS750E, it worked like a charm.

1.1mm is just over .040 inches which seems to be target quench in the Chevy V-8 arena. I had a 355ci small block professionally built for my 69 vette, the builder used 0 deck height and a .040 head gasket for a nice tight chamber. Little monster made 440hp/450tq
I wish I could afford a car with performance like that in Belgium :) And I am a sucker for torque in cars and bikes…
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Ok, cylinders and heads on, new belts installed. Engine turns over smoothly with the crank tool. Aesthetically pleasing (a few minor paint touch ups needed) - so the big question is: did I bugger anything up during reassembly?
I hope to get the engine into the frame next week and give it a go…

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Looks great. I had the same doubts as you, "did I do everything correctly?".
It was a relief for me when mine fired up for the first time.
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Looks great. I had the same doubts as you, "did I do everything correctly?".
It was a relief for me when mine fired up for the first time.
That‘s part of it. But I am also worried that she might still leak oil from between the head and the cylinder. Well, I‘ll find out soon whether the welch plugs are well seated and holding :)
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Engine slotted into the frame easily - much more easily than it came out. Maybe all the silicone grease on the engine bolts helped? ;-)
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Already installed the clutch slave (not in pics) and it engages the clutch alright.
Tomorrow I‘ll start to tighten up the bolts and later this week I‘ll reinstall carbs and airbox and maybe, if I am lucky, I will be able to push that special button…

The weather is supposed to be nice the next couple of days, so I will have to resort to use my somewhat more docile, older Italian girlfriend. I think she‘ll be ok with a short trip to the Italian ice cream parlor…
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Engine slotted into the frame easily - much more easily than it came out. Maybe all the silicone grease on the engine bolts helped? ;-)
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Already installed the clutch slave (not in pics) and it engages the clutch alright.
Tomorrow I‘ll start to tighten up the bolts and later this week I‘ll reinstall carbs and airbox and maybe, if I am lucky, I will be able to push that special button…

The weather is supposed to be nice the next couple of days, so I will have to resort to use my somewhat more docile, older Italian girlfriend. I think she‘ll be ok with a short trip to the Italian ice cream parlor…
View attachment 1067147
This just shows what sort of person one is - what a neat and beautiful work you are doing!!
This just shows what sort of person one is - what a neat and beautiful work you are doing!!
Thank you, J.B. - but it does not quite look as great up close. There is much more superior examples on this site. And the real question still is: will it start alright and will it not run into issues later? But hey: given where it stands now and taking into account my capabilities / available tools etc. I am satisfied. Plus: so far I really had a lot of fun.
Most importantly: this forum and the support from its members makes it soooo much easier!!
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That’s so pretty I wouldn’t want to ride it.
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I installed the carbs today. New rubbers installed so that I can be reasonably sure not to have air leaking in.
Also tensioned the timing belts. First horizontal cylinder with all pulleys aligned with their marks on the case / belt covers. I used a 6mm Allen key to set the tension. Then on the vertical, where I had to rotate the crank to align the second hole after the timing mark on the central pulley with the mark on the case. I used again a 6mm Allen key. Same way I did two years ago. The whole procedure is described in high def by Brad / belter on youtube.
Tomorrow I will paint the „new“ oilcooler. And hopefully on Friday I will install it, as well as the oil filter, fill the engine with oil, install the airbox / battery tray and hopefully try to start the engine. Interesting times…
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That’s so pretty I wouldn’t want to ride it.
I assume you mean Mother Goose? Actually, she handles surprisingly well, considering how old the frame design is. I love the huffin‘ an‘ puffin‘ of the big lump and the exhaust note…
Of course, there is not that much power available and the super heavy flywheel makes her truly behave like a tractor. But in the end it‘s about feeling instead of performance :)
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I painted the oil cooler today: Raptor acid etch primer followed by the RH Lacke 2k paint. Baked it in the oven for 1h at 140C, then installed it.



I filled the cooler with oil, filled the engine and after a short time of turning her over with the starter motor the oil light switched off.
I hope to get the exhaust on this afternoon and maybe try to start her still today. I‘ll then have to properly route all the hoses and electrical connections.
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And check for any loose bolts (Like you belt cover upper bolts) if you plan on starting with open belt covers it would be a shame to have one fall into the belts and blow it up at this point.
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And check for any loose bolts (Like you belt cover upper bolts) if you plan on starting with open belt covers it would be a shame to have one fall into the belts and blow it up at this point.
Yes! Already did - all in order / removed. But will double check indeed :) Thanks!
That oil cooler looks very nice. I wish I had baked mine. I'm thinking of putting a screen in front of it to protect from stone chips. Are my eyes crazy, or is the clutch line cut?
Make sure you take a video of the first start up.
Bike looks great.
So I installed the exhaust and fired her up. Did not want to start until I realized that it helps if the fuel tab is on. After that: a beautiful noise. Idle is a tad too low. Ran her up to about 100C.

Now the ugly: I‘ll have to redo the work. As I had been cautioned, the gasket is prone to leaking. Mine is not leaking, it‘s gushing.
Also, it seems like the horizontal cylinder is still weeping oil between head and cylinder at the exhaust port. Given that I put in new welch plugs I suspect that the face between head and cylinder may be warped. So that will have to go to the shop.

I have to admit that I am a bit frustrated.
That oil cooler looks very nice. I wish I had baked mine. I'm thinking of putting a screen in front of it to protect from stone chips. Are my eyes crazy, or is the clutch line cut?
Make sure you take a video of the first start up.
Bike looks great.
I think you are seeing the fairing stay.
I suspect I know where I cocked up. When I put the long bolt that secures the backend of the engine to my engine stand through the hole at the back of the case, I felt resistance. When I now look through the hole in the case I can see part of the ripped apart gasket. I think that I may have ripped out part of the gasket while inserting the rod, creating a leak.
Damn.
That sucks, sorry to hear it. Not going to make you feel any better but we all make mistakes and hopefully learn from them.
Gotta add I might be wanting to verify everything possibly wrong before tearing it apart again so if there is anything else it can be fixed at the same time. I doubt your head and cylinder is due to warpage as that is not how that usually looks so inspect carefully. Verify o-rings are thick enough and sealing and cylinder spigot is contacting head.
I should be able to tell whether the welch plugs seal when I pull the head. Hopefully, I‘ll also be able to see where the leak is.
O-rings were Ducati original, so should be ok. But will try to see if it was leaking.
What is the best way to check whether the head and cylinder faces are making contact? Some form of ink?
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