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Yes, thanks - I know. But as I said, the lock wiring is really only to act as an indicator if the clamp is starting to come undone. So it doesn't matter too much. And since it's been like that for the last 10+ years, I don't reckon on changing it any time soon ... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Finally an overall success.

Steve @ Bevel Heaven said not to sweat the exhaust ring as them breaking off is a common occurrence. I also crossed my fingers and assumed that the protuding tab would embed itself into the exhaust gasket and still have a seal.

However, in order to at least keep the broken ring in the correct position as it goes into the cylinder head I put a couple of dabs of epoxy on the tabs and left it overnight- it was easy enough as the break on the ring fit into its corresponding area in the actual head like a puzzle.

There is some epoxy in this picture. Really.
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I dismantled the rest of the exhaust system, cleaned all the joints and reassembled them with a thin coating of the stuff robax suggested, Permatex high temp RTV silicone sealant, and I didn't get it everywhere.

I had bought some real Conti exhaust connectors because I had got it into my head they were a vital necessity for street credibility but they had not arrived yet so used what I think are the OEM's. And why not? I'm always amazed when I make those decisions. Idiot.

I then tackled getting it going. It took me a long while to get the accelerator pumps working. At one point I completely dismantled one of them, blew lots of air all over the place, put it all back together and after doing things like unscrewing the one way valve on the pump body and dropping about 6 drops of fuel in there, it finally worked.

Then set upon putting the MotionPro CarbSync tool back together. The replacement fluid arrived direct from MP but imagine my surprise when it would only fill 2 chambers. (MP are sending me another bottle gratis) Luckily, being a twin and as each of the tools' chambers are independent, once calibrating just the two chambers I could just ignore the two empty ones and synchronize. This time, I followed what rick81mhr900ss did and calibrated using the rear cylinder and from there the calibration process was much improved.

During the whole process of the bike running did not get any backfires from the rear of the pipe, a couple of pops from the carbs but nothing serious.

I took it for one run to fill up with some non-ethanol gas but on leaving the station forgot to turn the taps back on. It of course backfired and blew off the rubber cap on one of the adapters which I had lazily left on the manifold and proceeded to sound unhappy. I didn't even stop to have to look, I knew what had happened so I turned the gas on and went home extremely gingerly, had a nap, and then calibrated and sync'd again kidding myself it was the first time. I think I did a better job second time around anyway. Before I took it out again, I removed the adaptors and put in the factory screws (with new washers) and had no further issues. I played a bit with the air mixture screws but I could not detect any noticeable difference so left them at 1.5 out.

I have to say i think it's now running great. See for yourself on the mildly boring YouTube video here.

AND I love the Conti's...especially the little pop and crackle you get on decell. (please tell me that's normal!)

Apart from saying What? all the time- I'm happy.

I want to thank everyone on here for taking the time to read my drivel, think about it, and then give a bevel newbie like myself some very valuable advice...especially Robax who's videos and calming process taught me a lot. I am equally grateful to Duccout, Ventodue, rick8mhr900ss, and off forum, Steve at BevelHeaven was also very generous with his phone time for advice.

All the best, and all ride safe.

Chris

And I actually like it better without the panels for some reason.
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Good luck Chris! You will find that these bikes need a lot of TLC, which some people can't stand and others find as all part of the charm. BTW, the throttle pumps tend to stop working if the bike is not used regularly, but as you have discovered, if you remove the ball-valve screw in the chamber and prime it, that gets it working.

It looks like you have synched the carbs very well; a lot of people think that the slides have to open simeltaneously, but that it wrong, both cylinders are so unique that it is important to get both cylinders ticking over evenly, then ensure that both gauges move exactly the same time when the throttle is opened. Because these engines are vee twins, and naturally uneven in their firing, the whole riding experience is ruined if the carbs are not synched properly, leading to lumpy low-down running. Nice bike!
 

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Very good! Result! I think you'll find it difficult to get the idle and pick-up much better than that.

Slight popping on the over-run can happen when the bike is at the limit of lean - you'll hear it quite often on modern bikes. Conversely. it can also happen when it's a bit rich, especially when the engine is breathing freely - as yours is with K&Ns and Contis.

If it bothers you, try adjusting the mixture screws a little and see what happens ...
 

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Discussion Starter #46
thank you bulldog....I'm on a steep learning curve. Btw I love your vintagedesmo.com website! Fantastic looking premises and art! I've been slowly trying to build something very similar using squarespace (not live yet) but of course everything ends up on here and it's tough to find the time to keep it updated never mind find the right templates etc etc. i don't want it to be a business as much as document what I do...but to be honest it's really all here anyway.

I never thought I would be into these bikes...a friend advised me to get this one as an investment....of course I paid way too much for it ($15k) and I must have put in at least a couple of grand in rebuilding carbs, brakes, master cylinders, replacing fluids and filters, etc etc. Of course I should be ignoring all other Darmah sales but since then I've seen a few around for $11k- nevertheless I'm pretty sure I'll be hanging onto it AND riding it a lot. The Contis sound satisfies some kind of addiction in me.

Thanks to all on this site I've learned A LOT in a short period and I think I've put it into practice reasonably well. For example syncing the carbs on a Kawasaki triple is simply making sure all the slides come up at the same time, but as Duccout points out, it's more complicated than that on these motors. That was an interesting process. One of the other surprising (to me) things I learnt is that just because a bike has been sitting in a museum for 5 years doing nothing doesn't necessarily mean that's an advantage to the bike in terms of value or mechanical health. best case scenario is probably a daily driver from an (honest) enthusiast.

Been carefully cinching up the exhaust nuts after every heat cycle....then finally re-did the lockwiring on the forward cylinder. I don't think I will bother drilling a hole in a rear cylinder fin to do that one. Will just keep an eye on it.

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Bought a new BikeMaster battery (MS12-19-BS for $85) I've been running with the battery that came with my 998 but I don't think it's a good idea. However the voltage of the new AGM Bikemaster out of the box was only 10.8, so I hooked it up to my NORCO Genius battery charger which is supposed to save any battery and it would just stop attempting to charge after reaching 25% and flash red lights, so I think I'm going to have to send this back and suck it up and buy a decent one for more money from Bevelheaven or the like.
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The other next fix I need to address is sometimes the rear brake doesn't function...something is interfering with the pedal. Feels like it's hitting something (the kickstart maybe) not allowing it to go far enough to engage the master cylinder. The pedal feels a little sloppy left and right on it's pivot bolt. Could maybe be solved with a bushing which is disappointing as I don't have the machinery to install such a thing and everytime I give something to an engineer/machinist I literally don't see it for weeks!!
 

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On your battery ...

Yes, do make sure you get a good 'un. As you may already know, the best way to wreck your sprag clutch is by having the engine back-fire - the design that SKF uses for their one-way bearing is especially intolerant of being made to turn the wrong way.

And a great way to induce a backfire is by having a weak battery ...

(And again as I'm sure you know: the more CCAs you can get, the better :) .)

P.s Fair call on wiring up the rear exhaust, btw. It doesn't really do much, to the extent that I haven't got round to re-doing mine correctly these last 10 years or more ... Just test the nuts with the spanner every blue moon or so .. ;)
 

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thank you bulldog....I'm on a steep learning curve. Btw I love your vintagedesmo.com website! Fantastic looking premises and art! I've been slowly trying to build something very similar using squarespace (not live yet) but of course everything ends up on here and it's tough to find the time to keep it updated never mind find the right templates etc etc. i don't want it to be a business as much as document what I do...but to be honest it's really all here anyway.
Thanks, the website I'm doing is also mostly a place to blog my projects for friends and family and to keep a record for myself. I enjoy writing the blogs and doing the photos, it gives me another outlet that is motorcycle-centric and helps me to contemplate steps as I go. Maybe someday I'll turn it into a vintage parts store and start selling, I do see a need for bevel ducati single and twin parts in the US, the few that we have are great but I think stocking some different parts would be helpful. I also find that parts here are a bit over priced compared to Europe and Australia.

Your collection looks fantastic and I love the diversity of bikes. I also love your shop, its good to have a place to work that is nice to be in. I really need to do the floor in my garage like yours - it makes it so much cleaner brighter.

When you get the website up let us know, I'd love to see it.
 

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Great write-up Hudtm60 and nice to see clear pictures of what you are up to.
Your mention of the rear brake hitting something reminded me I have the same problem with my Darmah. I initially made lots of adjustments but with no success. I think I now know what happened to cause it. Last winter, the bike fell over in the garage (groan) when I was moving it around and I looked it over finding nothing obviously broken or scratched but now I think the brake pedal was bent. The foot-peg is spring loaded and would put the pedal out in the open in a fall. It'll have to be heated up and bent back into shape. You may have the same problem.
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Discussion Starter #50
Thanks willyboy, and glad to know I'm not the only one to have garage mishaps...(and also glad you had little damage)....other day I took out the dipstick on one of my bikes only to remember it has an 'oil glass' rather than a stick. I placed the oil cap aside and bent down to look at the glass only to somehow let the bike fall over almost on top of me and...yes...the oil glug glug it's way out of the bike...I hadn't put the cap back on...meanwhile in Laurel and Hardy fashion I'm trying to right the bike with my feet slipping in the oily mess. ended up throwing a towel into the oil slick...gained traction and bike is almost back to normal....
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But I digress....on mine....all looks normal here...close...but no infractions
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however put a foot on it (and apologies for my grotty garage shoes)...and while riding for some reason I have a tendency to press it to the left and so it clashes with the kickstart....and wearing boots probably makes it worse. It's quite easy to make allowances and make a conscious effort to press straight down and then there's no issue- however there's no time to think like that in an emergency.
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so first things first I should bend it out a bit with a long term plan to get a bushing installed in the brake arm....but as to bending it out: won't the heat discolor the chrome?

all would be better without this play....
 

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Woah! Now that's an ugly scene! Glad you and the bike were unscathed. Great garage BTW. I've been thinking about a floor finish just like that. Obviously oil resistant ...
Yes' I'm concerned about the blue-ing of the chrome on the pedal arm but I'm not sure what else to do. I guess since it bent without breaking the first time, it might bend back without snapping? :oops:
Looks like yours is pretty straight and a shim might do it for you.
 

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Fixed it. I just grabbed it with the large adjustable pliers and it bent fairly easily back into place. No heat. No promises your's won't break though!
 

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Reasonably confident I found some issues contributing to the right hand backfiring:
1- Exhaust nut hand tight, header very loose. (Left hand was tight and solid) Funny/mildly concerning that it was lockwired.
2- Existing exhaust gasket extremely sooty.
This is definitely the cause.

One thing... after you've put a new gasket in and tightened it all up, you inevitably need to tighten it up again after the next couple of rides. The gaskets squeeze down quite a bit.

Meaning... save wiring it up until that has happened.
 

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Also, when you put the headers back on, remember how I said to do that without the exhaust pipes fitted... just have the crossover attached loosely and no rear pipes.. The intent is to ensure that the flange of the header pipe is flat against the head and is not being held off at an angle by the rest of the exhaust system. Mine is quite tight like that and I need to do it as described. I also give the header pipe a good bit of wrenching around with my hand as I tighten it up. You can feel it go snug like that.

And those flanges are definitely not right with those extra rings and the way one of them has put a high spot on the flange. Someone might have used the two gaskets to try and seal that up. Try and get that flattened out.
 
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