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Does anybody know what the mileage correction factor is after adding the 14T front sprocket?
There is no such thing on Monsters. Mileage is measured by rear wheel rotations not front sprocket rotations.

14T that puppy!!!!
 

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I dunno....what you getting now?

My wife's 2001 M900ie was getting 45-51 mpg with the 15T and when we dropped it down to a 14T, it might have dropped 2-3 mpg......but I think she's getting more used to the bike and is riding it harder, also. I didn't notice a drop in mileage that I would call noticeable on my ST2 when I changed front sprockets, but the bikes live in the mountains most of their lives.
 

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There is no such thing on Monsters. Mileage is measured by rear wheel rotations not front sprocket rotations.

14T that puppy!!!!
What's the actual advantage of the 14T conversion?
I love my 15/48 combo on my M620D, got great torque, no need to be up/downshifting on the twisties, canstay in 3rd...Read it'll make me go better at slower speeds.
 

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The 14-45 would be very nearly the same as 15-48.
I put the 14 on my 696 and it really helped it jump coming off the corners.
The only problem I see is that I think the smaller sprocket on the front may have caused a little lash in the chain.
I wonder if it wouldn't be better (more expensive) to go up 3 on the back.
 

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The 14-45 would be very nearly the same as 15-48.
I put the 14 on my 696 and it really helped it jump coming off the corners.
The only problem I see is that I think the smaller sprocket on the front may have caused a little lash in the chain.
I wonder if it wouldn't be better (more expensive) to go up 3 on the back.
sure, 14/45 is a 3.21 ratio and 15/48 is a 3.20 ratio; so actually it would be pretty darn close....but, do you up/downshift going up/down... i only downshift to 2nd for extreme braking.. but going up, usually, i leave in 3rd and forget it... just right hand movement controls the bike...
 

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sure, 14/45 is a 3.21 ratio and 15/48 is a 3.20 ratio; so actually it would be pretty darn close....but, do you up/downshift going up/down... i only downshift to 2nd for extreme braking.. but going up, usually, i leave in 3rd and forget it... just right hand movement controls the bike...
I run the twistys in 3rd or 4th depending on how twisty they are.
I do think the 696 is geared to high stock, and should be changed unless you do a lot of slab riding.
 

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Since they are basically the same, I would drop down one in the front. While this is only a small reduction in unsprung weight, the +3 would be an increase (if I understand this correctly).
Dropping the front one tooth takes 10 minutes and you can use your original chain. 3 up in back requires a new chain. Try the front, a sprocket is under $20 and if you don't like it, change back.
 
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