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I would like to see 140 rear wheel horsepower off of the 992 motor (I know that the S4Rs will get me close to this number with mods, but I want to upgrade my current bike and am not the biggest fan of the radiator). Is this even possible? If so, any ideas on the needed parts, their pricing and reliability, or lack of it? Also, is it possible to see 160+ mph with the added HP and possibly some gearing changes?
 

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I would like to see 140 rear wheel horsepower off of the 992 motor (I know that the S4Rs will get me close to this number with mods, but I want to upgrade my current bike and am not the biggest fan of the radiator). Is this even possible? If so, any ideas on the needed parts, their pricing and reliability, or lack of it? Also, is it possible to see 160+ mph with the added HP and possibly some gearing changes?

Never seen it. My 4V St4S only make 117 hp or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was thinking that swapping the pistons (although not sure if this is possible in Cali with 91 octane gas) as well as a camshaft change may yield decent results.
 

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On the older 900 air cooled motors with big bore kits, getting 100 hp at the wheel is possible but expensive. You need high comp pistons, flowed heads, bigger valves, high lift cams, shorter intakes, etc. I believe there was a fellow on here that got good power out of his Hypermotard (>110 hp), but it cost plenty. No way will you ever get 140 hp at the rear unless maybe you add some kind of air boost system. Also as power goes up, reliability goes down.
Mike
 

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It would be uncharted territory for sure, and would most likely be a "drag strip" only motor.

Chris Kelly at CA Cycleworks has a lot of experience with Ducati air cooled motors and can only get 102 or so hp reliably (at min. a price of about $7-$8,000). I've ridden one in a 95 900SS/SP and they're nice but DAMN pricey

See here:

http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/shop/heads/heads.html

The list of parts and procedure is all there. To get anything more then this, you're not using any off the shelf parts. Hire a race mechanic/engine builder, give him 200-300 hours of labor, get him a CNC machine shop a dyno and an open check book.

You'll be at more then the price of a new 1098 in no time

I'd just paint the radiator black if you really NEED 140HP...
 

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You could probably get to 110 hp at the rear wheel without spending a fortune. Beyond that, it's going to get very expensive.

Look into oversize, high compression pistons, a more aggressive cam and having the head ported. That would be a good start. I'd personally never do any engine work beyond this because reliability would drop off quickly.

Next step would probably be ti con rods, a new crank and oversize valves. I don't know what else.
 

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Just at a 30-40 hp shot of nitrous. That will get you there in a hurry.
again, forced induction, and nitrous are for drag bikes...Straight line stuff. Making power the N/A way is best if you still want it to be very rideable in the corners. Keeps the ole power delivery smooth.

a big step to getting you feeling like the bike has more power is light weight wheels. Lighter engine internals will help too. To make reliable high HP you need liquid cooling. Look at guys who run 1340cc kits on old GS1000 suzukis and Kwakas...almost un rideable in hot weather due to engine heat. Although a good oil cooler goes along way.
 

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You could probably get to 110 hp at the rear wheel without spending a fortune. Beyond that, it's going to get very expensive.

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Define expensive. ?? read what DucatiMike said and the info from CA-Cycleworks. $7 - $8K . That's some pretty expensive HP. Can buy a used Busa for that..
 

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again, forced induction, and nitrous are for drag bikes...Straight line stuff. Making power the N/A way is best if you still want it to be very rideable in the corners. Keeps the ole power delivery smooth.

a big step to getting you feeling like the bike has more power is light weight wheels. Lighter engine internals will help too. To make reliable high HP you need liquid cooling. Look at guys who run 1340cc kits on old GS1000 suzukis and Kwakas...almost un rideable in hot weather due to engine heat. Although a good oil cooler goes along way.
BMW is doing it in their "Hybrid" cars: add an inline DC motor, map it's response to the throttle, an extra Lithium Phosphate battery, and you have variable on-demand power when you get on it.

With an ultra-cap @ 144V most of those little suckers can put out 40-60 HP peak for 10 seconds. 15-25 HP over a more modest voltage, in a more or less continuous fashion (based on available power). In a bike scenario, you wouldn't need full power all of the time anyway. Just don't go jumping over flatbed semis or stuff like that. :rolleyes:

Something like this. It doesn't say if the motor is set up for regen, but it could generate it's own energy store when braking or from excess current from the regulator when not powering parts of the bike.

That would be an interesting engineering project. But, not too practical because of the weight.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You could probably get to 110 hp at the rear wheel without spending a fortune. Beyond that, it's going to get very expensive.

Look into oversize, high compression pistons, a more aggressive cam and having the head ported. That would be a good start. I'd personally never do any engine work beyond this because reliability would drop off quickly.

Next step would probably be ti con rods, a new crank and oversize valves. I don't know what else.
This is what I was thinking, but the lack of 93 octane fuel in Cali is troublesome for this set-up.
 

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here's one we set up this year.. it came out to about a 30% gain over stock. Bear in mind all Dyno's read different, it's about the percentage of gain...


Showroom Stock MTS1100S
vs
Full tilt MTS1100S
w/
DP Cams
DP Full exhaust
Pistal pistons
PC3 with dual maps
TPO Beast intake
MBP Redheads

We have now gone to lightened crank, rods and flywheel and are up to 102. Last run the bike had just over 15,000 miles on it.
 
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