[snellen]

Got this 2013 1200S Touring with only 5500 miles from this older gentleman 3 weeks ago to ride with the wife or actually go somewhere as opposed to thrashing with the Hyper SP. after the test ride I noticed what could be a warped rotor but still buy after he reduced his price. Now I am half decent with a wrench since I roadraced for many years. After more riding I noticed that i don’t really feel this at the lever (abs?) and it’s just the top fairing and the gauges shaking up and down. I wanted to replace the worn stock tires with Power 3 so:

I removed the wheel and make sure all the rotors buttons were loose, I cleaned the rotors and pad with 3M, I cleaned the calipers and pistons and make sure they move freely. I inspected the rotors and they looked straight when turning. The bearings were hard to turn with my fingers so I thought I got it. I changed them with OEM parts. I checked for any play in head bearing and felt none. Reassemble everything and went to scrub the new tire. STILL does it! The weird thing is: if I got 100mph then brake its smooth, as my speed go through 65-55 it shakes hard then dramatically reduce below 50. If I brake at 40mph it’s barely noticeable. Light or hard braking doesn’t matter much.

I am stomped and since it doesn’t do it above 80 I am reluctant to buy new rotors. Any IDEA??

P.S. I need to change this old signature, these are ALL gone

Thanks

 

[DaveNZ]

Theres plenty on this topic, pulsing rotors. They arn't warped, they are poor quality, the metal changes structure or something on the high spots, the pads grip at differing levels around the rotor, cheap quality, best thing to do is replace them with a quality make, or be a cheap bastard like me, and live with it. (50,000Ks I've put up with these crap pulsing rotors)

 

[Buhgaboo]

try pulling the rotor off and cleaning the mating surfaces...noticed a similar shimmy with my brand new rotors after a tire change...a tiny bit of thread locker made its way in between the mounting surface and the rotor...scraped away and all is dreamy again.

 

[snellen]

Was is vibrating only when braking at specific speed? I had warp rotor before and you could feel it at all speed

 

[Krazyjohnny]

Clean out the "float washers" between the rotor and brake surface. Brake dust accumulates in there and will not allow the brake surface to float.

Use a bolt small enough to go through the float washer with a flat washer on the bolt head side and then another on the other side of the float washer. Thread on a nut nd it will hand snug down. then use a wrench on the nut and gently turn the nut as you spray brake cleaner into the float washer. You will quickly notice the wash free up. Rinse and repeat on all of them. There is a YouTube video out there on this. I am not that smart to figure this out on my own. good luck.

 

[duc96cr]

Don’t go 60. It’s a silly and useless speed. Does the shudder change based on how hard you’re on the brakes ? I use coarse emery cloth , 80 grit, to deglaze pads and a vibratory sander to deglaze rotors. Scotch Brite isn’t aggressive enough to do shit.

 

[snellen]

It vibrate the same light or hard braking. just longer on light as you stay in the sweet spot longer. I cleaned the buttons already (they were all loose). I use a coarser grid as well for the sanding but that was with the wheel on so only one side of the disks. I went as much as losing all the concentric lines from the pad. I think I will have to get Galfer rotors and pads

 

[Buhgaboo]

I had a warped rotor too...don't get me started...a measly .001in at the mating surface is an easy .006in at the outer edge... procrastinating on checking is an expensive lesson...

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[RACER_X]

Going w warped rotor as well


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[snellen]

Got EBC wave rotors and pads, will post when I install them

 

[snellen]

Yup, that was it. I believe it was the actual metallurgy of the rotors since the color was uneven all over the surface. The EBC wave rotors are way lighter as a bonus! At least I got something from my $600...