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Discussion Starter #1
Have a mate whose 1200s keeps going into neutral when in the higher gears
I told him to make more positive gear changes and he insists he does. I rode
the bike and it happened to me. Any clues
Thanks
Len
 

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deja vu...

So your mate's bike does it too? :rolleyes:
 

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If there was one thing about the Multi 1200 I don't like, it's the gearchange. I've ridden a few of them, and they're all about the same; long throws and fairly vague in the upper gears. I've missed a lot of shifts between 5-6, and you really need to be very positive when changing in the upper gears. If the chain is worn or in poor adjustment this can also affect the changes, but even with both perfect on my bike it still doesn't shift nearly as well as my 1098 did, or as well as my BMW Hp2 Sport (and BMW isn't known for great shifting).

If I decide to keep my Multi long-term, I'll probably look at changing out the rearsets and shifter to see if that helps.
 

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Found the same issue on mine. I will ask the dealer to have a look at it when i do my next service. Could be that the forks inside the gearbox need aligning, that helped the issue on my old 916.
 

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gear

I have had the same problem mainly between 4 and 5 and 80% of the time in urban, but it usually catches me out when going into a corner in touring mode as well. this started soon after I got the bike, BUT it seems to be getting better (or maybe I'm getting used to the long shift) she has now done close to 10,000kms but the Ducati dealer in Canberra said he would have a look at it for me when the service is due. It is interesting to see a lot of others are having the same issue!
 

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I think it depends on what you have come off, and then onto the Multi.
Apart from a couple of ZX10 I have had predominately I have rode BMW boxers from 2004 to my R1200R on trade.
I personally don't have a issue with the shifting because I have been use to a long shift.

The gear lever is at a sick angle if you look at it and it needs a positive and quick shift. Also it likes it when the revs are up on the up shift.

I mean God forbid if it is a problem then this just gets added to the long list of other failures this bike has.
I'm regreting ever buying it. Mines in for the folk knock on Tuesday, where they have to place a .02mm shim in to take the movement up. While the forks are apart I'm having heavier springs put in and the rear spring upgraded to a 20% heavier one, just something else that's been a let down.
 

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^^^
Well at least there is a fix for the problems...

How many use the clutch for shifting , what % of the time...
 

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I'm engaging the clutch for down shifts, for up shifts in town but seldom do once I get the bike away from the slow going.
 

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I have never had a problem shifting with this bike and I agree with Jonny.
I have come from a KTM990 and Triumph Tigers before this bike and they have lever throws a little bit longer than Japanese bikes.

Lever adjustment is important. For me, my leg and ankle angle and the boots I wear, I had to adjust the lever up a few degrees (and this also makes it less likely to hit the tarmac).

I also have major clutch problems and I think the standard slave cylinder is weak at best and prone to problems. I have a DP ergal upgrade but Evoluzione and other brands may also help. If the clutch is not working properly, I think the likely reason will be the slave rather than the clutch engineering. If the clutch does not full disengage the gear changing will always be poor.

As to the other question raised here. I use the clutch for every shift 100% of the time up and down shifting.

Now, to pick a fight. :p

The clutch is a mechanical device that is an interface between the crank and the gearbox. It functions to gently match the speeds of these rotating parts so there is not a sudden mechanical shock or sudden change in speed of the drivetrain that could affect traction.

From the manual
1) Disengage the clutch by squeezing the clutch lever.
2) Push down the gear change lever firmly with the tip of your foot to engage first gear.
3) Raise the engine revs by turning the throttle twistgrip while gradually releasing the clutch lever. The motorcycle will start moving.
4) Release the clutch lever completely and accelerate.
5) To shift up, close the throttle to slow down engine, disengage the clutch, lift the gear change lever and let go of clutch lever.
To shift down, proceed as follows: release the twistgrip, pull the clutch control lever, shortly speed up to help gears synchronise, shift down (engage next lower gear) and release the clutch.
The controls should be used correctly and timely: when riding uphill, do not hesitate to shift down as soon as the motorcycle starts to slow down, so you will avoid stressing the engine and the motorcycle abnormally.
Why do otherwise? Laziness? Wimpy wrists? You guys evolving into Daleks who need mechanical devices to cart your withered carcasses around?

Honda have a few automatic bikes. Maybe these will work for you?



You can get off this and use one of these:



No clutches on these.

Only joking......:D
 

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- What year multi is it
- How many miles does he have
- What kind of oil is he running?



I've got about 4800mi on my 2011 (yeah yeah, I need to ride more), and mine did it a lot when I first got it, now it never does it. Maybe I've gotten used to how it shifts and adjusted, or the bike "broke in", but it's perfect now.
 

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I'm engaging the clutch for down shifts, for up shifts in town but seldom do once I get the bike away from the slow going.
My clutch will NOT work upshifting without the clutch engaged. Again this will be looked at by the dealer. He said it should...but no go!
 

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I was told it wasnt good for the trans to not use the clutch lever. Not true?
 

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The only thing I've noticed in nearly 11,000 miles now is the oil really needs to be changed every 3000-3500 miles to keep the gearbox happy. The shifting can get pretty clunky if you go much longer than that, but I've never had a missed shift or false neutral that wasn't my fault. :confused: Then again, I'm not Racer Rick banging through gears to reach warp speed in 2 secs either, and I'm very used to a long-throw shifter.

-SM
 

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I've done 13000kms now and have had the issue of false neutrals for a while.
Especially 4-5 and 5-6.

I adjusted my lever down more to get more room for movement without the need to lift my foot to up shift. It only helped a bit.
Started to consciously do more profound up shifts and then it is fine.
IMO it is not mechanical, but just to get used to it, but I'm no mechanic.

The oil makes sense, but why would Ducati recommend changing every 24000 kms only if would make such a big difference?


Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app
 

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Ducati recomend oil changes every 1200k not 24000, what brand and viscosity of oil are you all using? Some times a change of brand will help.
 

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I think i figured it out. I played with the shifting the other day while on a decent ride. Seems to be since I'm used to sport bikes and small fast shifting the bike needs the longer shift. When I half ass shift it throws it into a false gear. I kept trying it my old way and then just shifted it slow and full range of Motion. I can now make it false shift. So now Im gtg. Just do a precise slow shift no reason to shift it crazy fast like a sport bike.
 

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I was told it wasnt good for the trans to not use the clutch lever. Not true?
While it won't destroy the transmission shifting without the clutch, it does increase the wear and tear on all the components. I used to get away with clutchless shifting all the time on my little cbr600. The trans on it was buttery smooth. But I don't think I'd want to start doing it on the 1200.
 

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Shifting

Try using Bel-Ray EXS SYNTHETIC ESTER 4T 10w/50 and half bottle of Redline "Break-in" oil additive. It has lots of Zinc. It made mine shift way better.
 

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Ducati recomend oil changes every 1200k not 24000, what brand and viscosity of oil are you all using? Some times a change of brand will help.
Changing clutch oil every 1200k??? Sure, and you read this where?
My service chart shows to "check" the levels only. It does not refer to changing or replacing the clutch and brake oil at 12k or 24k services. Just the engine oil.
 
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