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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently bought a 2009 1198 as a repairable write off, nothing serious just smashed fairings, rearsets and broken clip ons. In The rearset tabs were a little but bent and as they are part of the frame it was a write off.

So I scored myself a cheap bike but can't ride it on the road, so it's the bike to build up for the track.

Over the coming months I will be building it up with the aim of improving the handling department as the main goal, engine will be left alone (plenty of power stock) but will be putting on full termis (can't have a ducati without open exhaust)

I will be changing bit by bit to see what kind of influence it has on the bike, so as the bits go on I will post my experiences and photos on here




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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
First job was to get the bike going,
Which meant the following found its way onto the bike:
Brembo RCS brake master cylinder
Brembo RCS clutch master cylinder
New set of original clipons (just to get bike going for now)
Samco silicone hose kit
race glass painted ducati red
Sato rear sets with billet brake pedal
Lithium battery

While It was at the shop to a get 24,000km service.I though it would be a good idea to dress it up with a few pieces of carbon fibre

It's now got:
Carbon rear hugger short for 70mm termi
Carbon swing arm guard with shark fin for racing
Carbon sprocket guard
Carbon keyguard
Carbon front mud guard
Carbon exhaust guard


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I have been riding an 1198S strictly on the track for almost three years. Was on a 999 prior to that. I can tell you the single best improvment in the 1198 handling was installing a Kyle Racing 30mm offset triple tree. If you want to be able to turn your bike on the track its a must do in my mind.

Good luck with your build. Looks like a fun project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the input sounds like you've been having some fun the last few years, what else have you done to your bike and have found that it works better/worse then stock?

Lots of things to go on to this bike, the 30mm triple being one of them, just want to ride the bike stock first to get a baseline to compare the upgrades to first, then change one thing at a time and see what kind of change they make to the whole package


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here the pile of bits that are ready for the bin:
ImageUploadedByMO Free1353981099.730898.jpg

New slash cut titanium termis fitted:
ImageUploadedByMO Free1353981173.002569.jpg
ImageUploadedByMO Free1353981213.446423.jpg

Carbon hugger and swing arm guard fitted:
ImageUploadedByMO Free1353981260.336441.jpg

Got bored last night and came up with this paint scheme, that will be the next step to set my bike apart from the rest:
ImageUploadedByMO Free1353981325.604060.jpg
ImageUploadedByMO Free1353981413.538667.jpg
ImageUploadedByMO Free1353981436.342075.jpg


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Trackday Junkie
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I second the 30mm offset triples (I have Nichols). Would NOT race my 1198S on the track without them. They are the single biggest improvement for the handling of the bike.

I would still get a PCV or Bazaazz to clean up the a/f ratio, especially the bottom range. The PCV I had REALLY helped out, but ended up getting a lot at the top too (ending 166/94 at the wheels).

R1 throttle tube ($16-18)

Stomp Grips

Dan Kyle modified TTX36 with Link

The stickiest tires you can get. I'm absolutely sold on N-tech Dunlops, either DOT or slicks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I second the 30mm offset triples (I have Nichols). Would NOT race my 1198S on the track without them. They are the single biggest improvement for the handling of the bike.

I would still get a PCV or Bazaazz to clean up the a/f ratio, especially the bottom range. The PCV I had REALLY helped out, but ended up getting a lot at the top too (ending 166/94 at the wheels).

R1 throttle tube ($16-18)

Stomp Grips

Dan Kyle modified TTX36 with Link

The stickiest tires you can get. I'm absolutely sold on N-tech Dunlops, either DOT or slicks.
All of the above mentioned are on the to do list, what sort of figures did u start with before the pc and what else have you done performance wise exhaust etc. ?

What size rear are u running the 190 or 200 section, rode on ntec least weekend and still feel that Pirelli give me the best feel and grip, but that's just me might just be because that's what the minds used to

Thanks for ur input


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Bon Vivant
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On the tire front - you might already understand this but a lot of people don't so:

If you run race tires use tire warmers, if you run street tires do not use tire warmers.
Race tires will not get up to temp for a long time (several laps) without warmers and will be quite slippery, Thats why race tires suck on the street.
Street tires will be warm in two turns and have good grip right out of the gate.

Street tires can loose grip if they get too hot, that's why you don't use warmers, I don't get mine that hot even on the track but if you start to feel them loosing grip after about 15 hard minutes on the track you will need to run race tires and warmers.

Sorry if this was too elementary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was running ntec front/rear with tyre Warmers (warming to 80*c) it was 42*c day and track temp around 50-55*c, so I can understand why it was getting a little slippery

Thanks for the info, but already knew this, surely someone will learn from it when they read it



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On the tire front - you might already understand this but a lot of people don't so:

If you run race tires use tire warmers, if you run street tires do not use tire warmers.
Race tires will not get up to temp for a long time (several laps) without warmers and will be quite slippery, Thats why race tires suck on the street.
Street tires will be warm in two turns and have good grip right out of the gate.

Street tires can loose grip if they get too hot, that's why you don't use warmers, I don't get mine that hot even on the track but if you start to feel them loosing grip after about 15 hard minutes on the track you will need to run race tires and warmers.

Sorry if this was too elementary.
Now I know! Thanks for this snippet of wisdom, now I know!
 

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I'm running the Pirelli superbike Pro tires on my 1198sp track bike. Great profile, excellent compound and they seem to agree well with the DTC. Also - no tire warmers needed - just need to take it easy on the first lap and let them heat up a little. Pirelli also says they can heat cycle without degrading the compound. Oh and pretty stellar grip too :)

All I hear is great feedback about the Nichols 30mm triple. I think that has to be next on the list for me...


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm running the Pirelli superbike Pro tires on my 1198sp track bike. Great profile, excellent compound and they seem to agree well with the DTC. Also - no tire warmers needed - just need to take it easy on the first lap and let them heat up a little. Pirelli also says they can heat cycle without degrading the compound. Oh and pretty stellar grip too :)

All I hear is great feedback about the Nichols 30mm triple. I think that has to be next on the list for me...


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I was running sbk pros on my cbr1000rr (with full works motor 193rwhp),but recently changed over the sc compounds and will never go back, the pros were good tires don't get me wrong but the sc's work really well, i run the sc1 front and 200 sc2 rear, get good feedback and seem to grip really really well,setup wasn't too much of a hassle and still get 5-8 ride days out of them, you will need Warmers however


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I have been riding an 1198S strictly on the track for almost three years. Was on a 999 prior to that. I can tell you the single best improvment in the 1198 handling was installing a Kyle Racing 30mm offset triple tree. If you want to be able to turn your bike on the track its a must do in my mind.

Good luck with your build. Looks like a fun project.
Can you install 30mm triples on a part street / part track bike? I thought I read somewhere you need to get rid of your radiator cooling fans. Is this true?

On the tire front - you might already understand this but a lot of people don't so:

If you run race tires use tire warmers, if you run street tires do not use tire warmers.
Race tires will not get up to temp for a long time (several laps) without warmers and will be quite slippery, Thats why race tires suck on the street.
Street tires will be warm in two turns and have good grip right out of the gate.

Street tires can loose grip if they get too hot, that's why you don't use warmers, I don't get mine that hot even on the track but if you start to feel them loosing grip after about 15 hard minutes on the track you will need to run race tires and warmers.

Sorry if this was too elementary.
With a tire like the Pirelli Supercorsas which are not a race tire, do you still say its a bad idea to use warmers? I thought people used them as it takes 1-2 laps to warm them up and you are generating more heat cycles.
 

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Is it going to make much of a difference to the race filter supplied with termis?


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Any mwr filter will actually filter the air. If you have the dp filter look in your airbox next time you remove the filter. That thing does not seal, and filters virtually nothing.

I went with mwr individual (one per side )and my airbox is clean now.

The dp filter is a terrible desiign, i couldn't believe how much dust was stuck inside my airbox
 

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Bon Vivant
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With a tire like the Pirelli Supercorsas which are not a race tire, do you still say its a bad idea to use warmers? I thought people used them as it takes 1-2 laps to warm them up and you are generating more heat cycles.
most performance street tires are made to heat quickly and stay grippy under fairly moderate use. As a consequence they can become"greasy" when ridden hard on the track and loose grip. Some riders will not push a good street tire hard enough to get them too hot, even on the track. For now I only use street tires on the track and I don't use warmers.

It takes far more work to heat a race tire and they will not get slick even under extreme riding. Unfortunately they do not work as well as a good street tire when cool or when riding at a moderate pace. On the street you just can't ride hard enough for extended periods get them to operating temp and below operating temp they do not have good grip, far less grip than a street tire at the same temp.

I don't know the specifics of the supercorse but if they are a dot street tire I wouldn't use a warmer unless you ride fairly easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hey guys decided to go with all carbon fibre fairings and haven't yet decided on how I want to paint them. It's going to be a race bike so will have to have some numbers on there (181), was thinking about ghosting in a few ducati logos etc. have any of you got any ideas/examples of carbon painted bikes. Want to try and keep as much carbon visible as possible


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