Hey Everyone! May's Bike of the Month challenge is now open for entries!

1100 EVO - Closing Rocker Arm Holding Tool for Valve Adjustments

2126 Views 18 Replies 10 Participants Last post by polyesterpig, 2 mo ago

K_Tolz

Discussion Starter · 3 mo ago (Edited)

9

Hello,

I am working through adjusting the valves on my Hypermotard 1100 EVO. This is my first time adjusting valves on a Ducati. I have found keeping the closing rocker arm depressed to remove the half rings and change out the closer shims is very fatiguing and difficult.

I already own a Demo Times Rocker Arm Depressor Tool:

Tableware Wood Metal Kitchen utensil Nickel

Hand Engineering Camera accessory Auto part Machine

and while it works fairly well to depress the rocker arm for checking clearances, when changing shims it tends to get in the way of the closer shim when I try to slide it down the valve stem to access the half rings. The tool also slides off the rocker arm easily.

With difficulty, I did manage to change out a closer shim by depressing the rocker arm with a screwdriver, but I figure I should find a better (and hopefully easier) technique before proceeding with any further adjustments. Pressing down against that spring is a battle!

Desmo Times' Rocker Holder Tool 2V 7mm-8mm appears to be what I would need, but the description states it does not work with 1100 EVO motors.

Office ruler Rectangle Wood Tool Metal

Fixture Gas Auto part Metal Engineering

Gas Machine Nickel Auto part Titanium

However, a member at DucatiMonster.org used the Demo Times' tool to depress the rocker during his valve adjustment on his 1100 EVO. He also made a neat little tool to hold the rocker arms open while adjusting the closer shim (link to thread).

Automotive tire Finger Gas Automotive lighting Thumb

Hand Automotive tire Finger Bicycle part Tool

Finger Thumb Electric blue Nail Soil

Handwriting Rectangle Font Tints and shades Art

Can anyone comment on whether the Desmo Times Rocker Holder Tool will work with the 1100EVO motor? Are there any alternative tools or techniques you could suggest?

Thank you.

See less See more

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

Andreaz

· #2 · 3 mo ago

I just jam a 8 mm ball ended hex key in from the other side. Easy

Reactions: 3

JEFFRPM

· #3 · 3 mo ago

I use a 1/4" diameter aluminum punch from the other side myself it's also used for pounding on that rear shock spring adjuster that's so fun to get at.

K_Tolz

Discussion Starter · #4 · 3 mo ago

Andreaz said:
I just jam a 8 mm ball ended hex key in from the other side. Easy

JEFFRPM said:
I use a 1/4" diameter aluminum punch from the other side myself it's also used for pounding on that rear shock spring adjuster that's so fun to get at.

Good suggestions, thank you! Do ya'll use those tools as a lever, like in this photo?

Fixture Gas Auto part Metal Engineering

I'm not trying to be dense, I just don't have access to the bike at the moment to try out these suggestions haha.

See less See more

Lelebebbel

· #5 · 3 mo ago

K_Tolz said:
Good suggestions, thank you! Do ya'll use those tools as a lever, like in this photo?
View attachment 1061434
I'm not trying to be dense, I just don't have access to the bike at the moment to try out these suggestions haha.

Basically if you jam it in under the rocker from the opposite side (from intake side if working on exhaust valve and vice versa) then the handle of the tool won't get in the way, and almost any roughly 1/4" or 6-7mm diameter object should work. I use a 1/4" ratchet extension wrapped in some e-tape, or a brass punch

Reactions: 2

Andreaz

· #6 · 3 mo ago

At around 5 or 6 min into this video, it's explained. Video from a well known forum member

Reactions: 3

JEFFRPM

· #7 · 3 mo ago

Whoever owns that engine needs to change there oil a bit sooner it's starting to discolor the insides or it's been really hot a few times turning things gold colored.

Other than that bit of information that's how it's done on a bench, now do it with a trellis frame in the way.

One more bit of information for you guys trying this for the first time plug the oil drain holes with foam ear plugs or your inevitably going to drop a collet half down the hole causing you to hopefully only going to remove the head locating it or going farther pulling the cylinder if you still can't find it the next step is yanking the motor & splitting the cases looking for the little bastard you dropped.

Or change to MBP collets they are easier to handle, don't wear out & don't fit in oil drain holes.

Reactions: 4

Andreaz

· #8 · 3 mo ago

My drain holes are pretty large. I almost lost an ear plug inside mine!

K_Tolz

Discussion Starter · #9 · 3 mo ago

Lelebebbel said:
Basically if you jam it in under the rocker from the opposite side (from intake side if working on exhaust valve and vice versa) then the handle of the tool won't get in the way, and almost any roughly 1/4" or 6-7mm diameter object should work. I use a 1/4" ratchet extension wrapped in some e-tape, or a brass punch

Andreaz said:
At around 5 or 6 min into this video, it's explained. Video from a well known forum member

JEFFRPM said:
Whoever owns that engine needs to change there oil a bit sooner it's starting to discolor the insides or it's been really hot a few times turning things gold colored.

Other than that bit of information that's how it's done on a bench, now do it with a trellis frame in the way.

One more bit of information for you guys trying this for the first time plug the oil drain holes with foam ear plugs or your inevitably going to drop a collet half down the hole causing you to hopefully only going to remove the head locating it or going farther pulling the cylinder if you still can't find it the next step is yanking the motor & splitting the cases looking for the little bastard you dropped.

Or change to MBP collets they are easier to handle, don't wear out & don't fit in oil drain holes.

Brilliant. Thank you all for the suggestions. That closer helper spring puts up a big fight! In the many hours I spent researching the desmo valve adjustment process and reading guides, not once had I come across that method of keeping the rocker arm depressed. Thank you very much for sharing the video.

I've done a number of valve adjustments on Japanese inline 4's but this desmo service is living up to its reputation. I just need to take it slow and overcome any sticking points one at a time.

Reactions: 2

duc96cr

· #10 · 3 mo ago

I think that return spring could be a lot lighter ( weaker) and still do it’s intended job. It would be much easier to adjust the valves, and less wear on the valve train.

JEFFRPM

· #11 · 3 mo ago

I heard the reason they installed the stiff spring was emissions & easier to start, when you put in the big cams you need the softer prong (or delete it all together) because the 4 wound coil hits the cam & a 3 wound (soft) clears it.

K_Tolz

Discussion Starter · #12 · 3 mo ago

Excuse my ignorance, but what is the purpose of the closer spring? Isn't the benefit of a desmo valvetrain that the camshaft acts on the rocker to close the valve, eliminating the need for valve springs?

JEFFRPM

· #13 · 3 mo ago

When your closer clearance is set from 0.0000" to 0.0005" you really don't need one having a spring makes shure it's actually fully closed making it easier to start & emissions purposes, under normal wear it can loosen up from valve & seat wear causing the clearance to increase, starting without it anything over 0.001 makes it a bitch to start.

The spring is so light can only handle closing at low rpm's.

Reactions: 2

ducvet

· #14 · 3 mo ago

I have experience with race bikes and bikes with broken closing springs (st3) , running with light or no spring does cause the bike to run rougher at idle so if low rpm driveability is a concern you want springs. The issue with light springs is that the thinner wire will be more prone to break.

Reactions: 1

Yorik

· #15 · 3 mo ago

K_Tolz said:
That closer helper spring puts up a big fight!

Try working on an ST3. They have 2 springs!

Reactions: 1

Moin

· #16 · 3 mo ago

Yorik said:
Try working on an ST3. They have 2 springs!

Damn, that's why it was so painful. That and my holder tool doesn't fit.

fastgas

· #17 · 2 mo ago

yes, my springs-less sport cams have a lot of lift and extra overlap making it smell very similarly to cam'd V8s I have owned in the past, read: raw fuel stink at idle.

K_Tolz

Discussion Starter · #18 · 2 mo ago

JEFFRPM said:
Or change to MBP collets they are easier to handle, don't wear out & don't fit in oil drain holes.

I've read the stock collets wear down a bit and reinstalling them with the incorrect side up can affect the shim clearance. Is this correct? After taking the collets off I was unable to keep things organized well enough to know if I was reinstalling them in their previous orientation.

Are the MBP collets worth it? I read they can be difficult to install, but are more robust and can extend valve adjustment intervals. Could be worth it, as I plan on putting some mileage on this bike.

These are the ones to buy, correct? Product 316 – MBP Retainers, 7mm, 1 set = 8 ea for all 2V-7mm – Desmo Times

polyesterpig

· #19 · 2 mo ago

The old version of the MBP collets were the difficult ones to install. They were revised and that is no longer an issue.

1 - 19 of 19 Posts