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Hi, can anyone help. i want to improve my 1098s drive at low rpm's. anyway advice if i change back sprocket to what number of teeth. drive very jerking up to 4000rpm.
thank you and reply back soon! Kevin :)
 

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Hi, can anyone help. i want to improve my 1098s drive at low rpm's. anyway advice if i change back sprocket to what number of teeth. drive very jerking up to 4000rpm.
thank you and reply back soon! Kevin :)
Go up 3 teeth in the rear or one down in the front

ps
1 down in the front is equivalent to going up 3 in the rear

I would personally go down 1 in the front (you wont need a new chain)
All ducs from the factory are geared terribly (unless you are riding at 100 mph all the time)
 

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Going down 1 tooth in front helps, but on the roads I ride it's not enough - I'm waiting for my 40-tooth rear to arrive.
 

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Going down 1 tooth in front helps, but on the roads I ride it's not enough - I'm waiting for my 40-tooth rear to arrive.
What kind of roads do you ride on? I have 15/39 on my 999 and it also doesn't seem to be enough for where I ride sometimes. The speeds here on base don't get above 30mph. In 1st gear it's winding out too much and in 2nd it lopes. I'm considering going down one in the front which would be like having a 42 in the rear. I just don't know if that would be too much.
 

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What kind of roads do you ride on? I have 15/39 on my 999 and it also doesn't seem to be enough for where I ride sometimes. The speeds here on base don't get above 30mph. In 1st gear it's winding out too much and in 2nd it lopes. I'm considering going down one in the front which would be like having a 42 in the rear. I just don't know if that would be too much.
Do it!!! Wheelie time baby!!!
 

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What kind of roads do you ride on? I have 15/39 on my 999 and it also doesn't seem to be enough for where I ride sometimes. The speeds here on base don't get above 30mph. In 1st gear it's winding out too much and in 2nd it lopes. I'm considering going down one in the front which would be like having a 42 in the rear. I just don't know if that would be too much.
Red, just fyi, I have 14/38 and 520 chain. For me just perfect round here. In second she is really struggling at 25-30. First is ok at 20-25 but those combinations are not the norm. On my twisties, 3rd is heaven-perfect for 35-75. Losts of push comming out of a tight turn.. How 'bout going down to 14/40?
 

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Go down one tooth on the front sprocket to a 14tooth and you will get higher rpms and that way you will get above the jerky low rpm´s.

If its still jerky at low speeds, then you might look into a PC3 or a remapped ECU to smooth things out.

//amullo
 

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You can't go up 3 teeth in the back due to clearence issues with the swingarm, you will have to change your front sprocket.
I too am thinking about regearing my 1098 (and I haven't even ridden it yet), but I would rather not drop a tooth on the front sprocket. Can I go up two teeth on the rear without swingarm interference problems?
 

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Another route (more expensive) is to dyno tune a PCIII or V. Worked for the fueling issue down low.
 

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15/41 on my 999. I put a 42T on the rear, but it barely allows the chain the proper slack.
Watch going down on the front, make sure there's no chain slap on the swingarm, near the pivot area. I've seen the chain rub blocks worn down to the swinger on the bottom because of this. Especially the 2005-06' the rub block gets worn on the bottom to the point that it starts to wear down the allen head screw that hold the rub giude on.....not good for the chain or removing the screw....
 

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Actually it is the nature of the engine to be a bit jerky under 4000 rpm. It takes some careful throttle control to smooth it out. All the gearing changes do is make it easier to run a bit higher rpm at certain given lower speeds. You can change your gearing to adapt to better rpm control in different gears for different road or track conditions. It does not change the engine character.
 

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Actually it is the nature of the engine to be a bit jerky under 4000 rpm. It takes some careful throttle control to smooth it out. All the gearing changes do is make it easier to run a bit higher rpm at certain given lower speeds. You can change your gearing to adapt to better rpm control in different gears for different road or track conditions. It does not change the engine character.
No, it's in the nature of the Euro-3 compliant stock fuel map.

OP, don't bother with gearing changes, get the ECU....



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