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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I've got an 07 1098 with the full termi, DP ECU and ~ 16,800 miles on the clock.

I'm getting an average of 25-27mpg (in fairness, this could be because of me >:) ) but the concern is the runability under ~4500/5000 rpms. The bike just seemed bogged down/sluggish/fat. The end caps on the cans are covered in soot, so is my brake light. The soot is still sticky/doesn't just wipe off with a rag and water.

For you guys out there that have 1098s with the full system, is your bike also running this poorly?

I had a thought that my thermo switch could potentially be the culprit, it's acting as though it's in the "stuck open" position. While riding the bike will run at 165-170. When I hit traffic/low speed areas, I'll see 185-190 but as soon as I start moving and getting airflow the temp goes back down to 165-170. When I'm up in the mountains on colder mornings I'll see 145-150 temps while running. I know the ECU uses the thermo switch and ambient air temp to calculate how much fuel to squirt. Have any of you guys run into something like this? Could the thermo switch be part of the issue?
 

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I've got an m821 with exactly the same symptoms....I also noticed we have the exact same backyard...I'm thinking our surroundings are to blame...I've also found I get gobs of carbon buildup on my valves if I run above 10krpm in the mountains...that's my most recent hypothesis anyway...no solution just yet...


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just a guess, my 1098 streetfighter gradually went from 36/35 mpg to 30, it is getting close to the 45,000 mile service, I reset the TPS and it went right back up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey guys, bumping this old thread.

If you have an 848 or 1098 or 1198 or streetfighter, this thread may apply to you. Or maybe you apply to this thread what you have learned and how you have fixed this issue?

Facts:
  • Ducati 848/1098/1198/Streetfighter Thermostats are designed to BEGIN to open at 174.2*F (79*C)
  • ECU Rich "warm-up" fuel map is applied from "low" temp reading to ~175*F
  • ECU switches between "warm-up" fuel map to normal running map via temp reading on dash (provided by temp sensor) AND the ambient air temp sensor. Theoretically, as the ambient temps drop the ECU SHOULD lean out the fuel mixture to keep engine temps above 175* / this is also how the coolant temp sensor plays a factor in fuel mapping

After a lot of reading around on the forums I've come across the temp sensor housing mod, changing the temp sensor to the NAPA part, covering radiator, relocating temp sensor / blocking off housing from cooling airflow.

I've replaced the temp sensor with the NAPA part and thought for a couple rides that fixed the issue. Then, on a 70* day in the mountains (yes, 70* at the top of the Blue Ridge), I was seeing ~160* temps on the dash while riding pretty spiritedly. After parking the bike for ~20mins, on startup the engine almost sounded/acted like it was flooded, once it sparked I saw spits of fuel coming out of the end cans and was able to replicate that with throttle blips. No rough idle, but the engine felt/acted like it was labored to idle. The bike ran pretty sluggishly until I was able to get it consistently over ~4500rpm which it then seemed to smooth out some. This issue is starting to get pretty frustrating and no one wants to ride behind me.

  • I've flushed my water wetter mix, cleaned the entire system with vinegar/distilled water, and put MotoChill in the bike, no difference
  • Changed the spark plugs, no difference
  • Although the logic behind the location of the temp sensor seems sound, I don't have any ambitions to relocate the sensor closer to the cylinders
  • I've tried another 1098 thermostat I bought used, same results. The bike takes FOREVER to idle past 170*. FOREVER. If I want to see 200* I'm waiting 20mins, easily
  • Gaffer taped the radiator and FINALLY saw consistent temps above 175* but the bike didn't seem to be running that much better, still seemed to be running fairly rich (more than the typical rich Ducati running conditions)

At this point I'm about ready to buy a KTM 390 Duke thermo. Same exact design, temp rated for 88*C/190.4*F to begin to open. The only other solution I can come up with is a universal thermo housing with interchangeable t-stats. The later option is going to require me to do some "custom" plumbing since the unis are not T shaped, rather just and in and out. The KTM thermo is ~$35 online, universal housings are about the same.

Here's my current question- If I put one of these thermos on, do you guys think I will still be hindered by the coolant temp sensor location? I don't want to "raise" the temp of the coolant in the engine if the ECU is only going to see an almost irrelevant reading from the temp sensor at the water pump. Also, as I'm typing this, I'm going to check my ambient temp sensor, it's always been spot on to my phone app temps, but I might as well test it to rule it out.

Any related input is greatly appreciated! I really want to get the bike tuned at DucShop this year but I can't get myself to spend the money on a tune if it's not going to be running at the right temps. LOL at me for all the people saying how ungodly hot Ducs are while I'm sitting here like, I just wanna see 180*!

I'll keep this thread updated as best as I can
 

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Is it possible that your air temp sensor is not reading/sensing correctly?

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Do not tinker with anything on the bike. Keep everything g that is physically on the bike as far as twisting or adjusting alone as it meant to run at a specific pressure at all times. Also. Clean your filter in your air box and change your fuel filter. With that aside you will have to flash your ECU in order to readjust everything to put it back in spec. Remember with mileage comes wear. So it will have a spec a little different than when she was new. I’ll stick around if you have any questions. But I do recommend on getting that bike to the dealer and have them run a diagnostic which is 180 smackaroos. So better to do it right than tinker with the wrong things and cost you even more down the long haul. Good luck!
 
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