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Discussion Starter #1
I am sure I have seen on the forum someone who did the above swap but I just cant seem to find it.

Im thinking maybe next winter I may do a transplant just need to start doing my home work in advance
 

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Since I can't stand the japu look of the 1198 and love the boxed asymmetric exhaust and double sided swingarm, I'm been considering that as the evolution of my bike... When time come...

It's pretty straight forward as everything is pretty much plug and play, and if you have a 999 with the 5AM ECU is even simpler.

Motor fits right in with no modification. Cooling system might require some thinking, but don't know much since I've never been in that general area of an 1198. I'm not sure the coolant manifold fits, if not you probably need some hoses... Basically no biggie. Oil cooler plugs right in.

The TB require some work. I'm not sure if the airbox of the 1198 fits under the 999 tank as is. The runners might need some thinking. The airbox is a little of a complicated part that you probably need to have in your hand to figure it out: the 1198 has the injectors on the top of the airbox. The TBs have an automatic fast idle which you can just get rid of (maybe it's possible to adapt the manual fast idle). I would be curious to know whether or not the 1198 have the bypass screw to adjust CO and balance TBs at idle.

Since I want to keep the asymmetric exhaust I will have to adapt it: nothing a good fabricator can't do. The bigger job would probably be the flanges, and a good idea would be to get the stock 1198 flanges and merge them with the rest of the exhaust.

The electronic is plug and play and if you have a 5AM ECU all you need is the Writer developed by JTP (the developer of Ducatidiag) to upload an 1198 map on your ECU. In my opinion this is simpler solution since you won't have to deal with a bunch of missing parts that would probably trigger the check engine light (such as the butterfly on the exhaust, O2 sensors, stepper motor for the automatic fast idle). Also this way you would have a fully functional immobilizer, not having to mess with the wiring, cluster, key and all that other nonsense. As for which map would work best, it probably requires some trial and error, but consider that if you want to go all out you can get some dyno time and with ECM (the map editor also available on JTP's forum) you can tweak the maps...

I think a good budget is $4,500 to be safe (engine $2500-$3000, TBs and airbox: $500, exhaust and fabrication $150, miscellaneous $500). Consider that if you're engine is in good condition, there is definitely a market for it: you can probably get $2,000 for engine and TBs.

Or at least this is as far as I got with the idea...
 

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I'm not sure what a good, low mileage 1098 mill goes for....but you'll never know how it was treated, it won't be warrantied, etc. It could be a pandora's box of problems. Plus your going to need alot of exhaust and maybe some airbox fabbing. If you can fab exhaust, airbox, air ducts it will be cheap, if not I wouldn't think $150 bucks would even dent a fabbers invoice.
An alternative is a BCM or FBF 1038cc over bore kit. The base 999 engine can handle the HP (around 150HP/87ftlb.TQ), it's relatively inexpensive if you can swap out the cylinders yourself. I bought the BCM kit because it had Pistal HC pistons. I also bought S cams ( I have an 03' base 999), lightweight cam belt pulleys, flywheel, slipper clutch. Had FBF do the install, porting and valve work. It was dynoed at 149HP and 87TQ w/ a Termi slip on. I've since installed a Termi 54mm full exhaust which made a marked difference in performance....huge difference! I'm told by FBF that my 999 with the 1038cc kit will out perform a 1098, has more HP, etc., whether that's true or not who knows. I would think a good used 1098 mill plus fabbing, exhaust would run around $3000-$4000 bucks, maybe much more.....the 1038cc kit would be around $3000. At least you would know what you have when your done installing the 1038cc kit....again if your loooking for 1098 like performance w/o swapping engines...
 

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I've just about finished this swap, if you look under Hypersport with a Evo engine you'll find out what i did, mines not your standard 999 but a naked with low pipes and high bars, but you'll get a general idea what needs to be done. Biggest thing is the airbox. Throttle bodies fit straight on and clear every thing, wiring plugs straight in, and have sent ECU to TomTom for a reflash. I made a complete set of low pipes but would be easy to convert your 999 pipes by just fitting the 1098 flanges.
All tacked together and ready to be tig'd up, as you can see by the sticker there "home grown".
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the info guys all very interesting reading. Cyclops that airbox you made is a work of art. Im liking the idea of the plug and play loom that certainly makes the job easier.
 

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From my past experience on modifying cars I take an engine swap over internal's modification all day, hands down.

When you start cracking cases and stroking and boring stuff it's a never ending money pit. Nothing beats the a factory motor designed with a budget of few order of magnitude greater than any Joe Performance.

In this case it is so stupid simple, mostly plug and play that the alternative is even more non sensic... But that's just IMHO

I would be curious to know if the 1098 airbox fits under the 999 tank as is.

For the mapping I would recommended checking with JTP as an alternative.

Sent from my Nexus One
 

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the 999 engine is a great engine to start with and its pretty easy to get 1098 power out of it. i'd bet even easier than swapping in a 1098. i'm going to do some work on my 999 soon and swapping in a 1098 motor is not even a consideration.
 

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From my past experience on modifying cars I take an engine swap over internal's modification all day, hands down.

When you start cracking cases and stroking and boring stuff it's a never ending money pit. Nothing beats the a factory motor designed with a budget of few order of magnitude greater than any Joe Performance.

In this case it is so stupid simple, mostly plug and play that the alternative is even more non sensic... But that's just IMHO

I would be curious to know if the 1098 airbox fits under the 999 tank as is.

For the mapping I would recommended checking with JTP as an alternative.

Sent from my Nexus One
Cylclops....great job on those!!! Impressive! cool "Termignoni" decal too:D

I disagree! I'm surprised you or anyone would say that about an auto engine as they are very simple to work on IF you know your way around a motor and have the proper tools. At least the older stuff..
The BCM kit uses top quality gaskets, the cylinders are rebored and nikasiled IIRC by KWS, the pistons are Pistals...all high quality best of the best parts which are superior quality to OEM-ever see a Pistal piston compared to a OEM 999 one? That said it all comes down to the person installing and tuning the stuff. I had FBF do the install, Phil did all the work from soup to nuts, anyone in the business will say that Phil is one of the best Ducati/motorcycle mechanics anywhere BAR NONE. He's done it all from Jap motors, Husky, MotoGuzzi, and MV Augusta, to building AMA Supercross/superbike and WSBK engines, on and on. It was very expensive, but I'm paying for FBF's experience.
The thought of swapping a 1098 mill did cross my mind. At the time I did the 1038cc install, 3 yrs ago, a 1098 mill was $3000+ though, plus I would need someone to fab an airbox and exhaust. If your capable of doing the fabbing and can solve the ECU/electrical issue's which would be IMO the most frustrating part of the swap, then why not give it a shot. A 1098 mill is very much cheaper now....still you need to get the AB and exhaust right- which might be difficult. I don't have nearly enough skill to do either the airbox, exhaust or fuss with ECUs and electronics.
That said the venerable 999 mill is a gem, heck the heads were designed by an ex-Ferrarri engineer..... and is just as stout as the 1098 or even more so...... which isn't with out it's own problems. But again it's back to the goals and challenges your wish to take upon yourself. But a 1038cc 999 mill with 150HP, 87 ft.lbs of torque is a very impressive motor for such little gain in cc, plus the exhaust note is worth every penny....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I will be doing all the work myself so an engine swap for me is not an issue but when it gets to the internals I just dont trust myself. One good thing about a 1098 engine is I will have a perfectly good 999s engine to sell which will help with the budget.
I know the loom is the same as the 999 but does anyone know if a 1098 dash will plug and play?
 

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I have'nt tried to plug in the 1098 dash, but doubt it would work with the 999 wiring as you would need also the left hand switch block to access the dash functions and i'm shure the wiring some where would be different. You could use the whole 1098 wiring harness,dash,LH switch block and ECU if you wished.
I didn't do this because my 999 wiring harness has been changed around quite a bit because my battery is now under the seat, ECU and regulator are up near the headlights. Remaping the ECU is not a big deal, TomTom can do that for you and then do the final fuel set up with a Power commander.
Some one else asked wether the 1098 air box would fit under the 999 tank, it won't fit on the throttle bodies in the frame because of the cross brace, and i don't think it will fit under the tank either. Hope this helps.
 

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Sadly funds wont stretch that far
What about updating your 999S to 'R'-spec? Might cost less and the power would in the ballpark of a standard 1098. Plus it would have the coolness of titanium bits :)
 

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What about updating your 999S to 'R'-spec? Might cost less and the power would in the ballpark of a standard 1098. Plus it would have the coolness of titanium bits :)
the only extra titanium would be the valves. and you have to swap the whole R motor as the major components aren't interchangeable.
 

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What about updating your 999S to 'R'-spec? Might cost less and the power would in the ballpark of a standard 1098. Plus it would have the coolness of titanium bits :)
Waste of money as the R spec is mostly about titanium bits as mentioned. If he were to do that he would be better off with the 1038cc kit, get the cams degreed, lighten and balance the crank, some porting and valve work. He have more HP/TQ with the 1038cc kit over both the R and 1098. Another option while it's out is to have the crank done.
I just had my lower end done, crank balanced, all new bearings....I think what was most impressive was the crank balancing. FBF did "race spec" balancing on my crank and the results were quite impressive....it's an incredible smooth motor right now and I swear it runs even better.
But it would be so costly to start throwing R parts into an alreday worn 999 engine, plus your just asking for trouble mixing new or worn ti parts to worn standard internal engine parts. Disaster!
The 1098 is a great choice....IMO the 999 analog dash is a better dash than the 1098's. I guess the 1098 is more trick and race bike like, but the 999 is a pretty cool dash with the big tach right where you need it to be...I was perusing BursiEvolution last night and they had a plug/play 1098 type dash "Falicon"? maybe, for sale...expensive.
 
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