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Discussion Starter #1
The bike is on the lift getting a good look over, as I'm getting myself acquainted with things. I've only got to ride it on a couple short rides, but the clutch seems to chatter quite a bit on harder starting pulls, but does seem fine when just easily pulling out. I read up on quieting them down with changing the stagger of the clutch pack to not fall into the wear grooves. What can I expect when I pull it apart, banged up drive lugs or finger? I bought this thing from the cops impound lot, and I did notice the tire had more wear down the center than when I first saw it. I'm wondering if some smartass cop was doing a burn out with it?
 

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Nobody can answer you, go ahead and disassemble you will know what you have.

Measure stack height and post pictures of inner hub and basket, then we could help.
 

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The bike is on the lift getting a good look over, as I'm getting myself acquainted with things. I've only got to ride it on a couple short rides, but the clutch seems to chatter quite a bit on harder starting pulls, but does seem fine when just easily pulling out. I read up on quieting them down with changing the stagger of the clutch pack to not fall into the wear grooves. What can I expect when I pull it apart, banged up drive lugs or finger? I bought this thing from the cops impound lot, and I did notice the tire had more wear down the center than when I first saw it. I'm wondering if some smartass cop was doing a burn out with it?
If it was impounded it doesn’t take that much thinking power to say the previous owner probably wasn’t law abiding exactly...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well the previous owner did get into trouble, but not on the bike. He had to forfeit it "in leu of restitution", because he got his ass sued, and my buy in isn't going to help much. I've been looking it over good, and on the whole its in pretty good shape, but no evidence of recent services, so eventually it'll go out to Portland for a valve adjustment & belts. But I would like to zip around a little before that & I'm taking the covers off the belts to peek just in case. I was just wondering if these (probably originals), plate had a tendency to separate, or other quarks.
 

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What you are feeling is normal FOR EVERY DUCATI WITH A DRY CLUTCH. Do some searching here for the fix. It’s very easy and cost nothing.
 

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Nobody can answer you, go ahead and disassemble you will know what you have.

Measure stack height and post pictures of inner hub and basket, then we could help.
Sorry. You are completely wrong. Ducati dry clutch chatter is a very well known “problem” and the fix is well know.
 

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Install a spider spring retainer to replace the 6 individual spring caps. It eliminates the clutch stud flex that causes the chatter in a dry clutch. I have one on my SFS and it works great.
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Sorry. You are completely wrong. Ducati dry clutch chatter is a very well known “problem” and the fix is well know.
I think you haven't read the OP at the same tone than me. I took the "What can I expect when I pull it apart, banged up drive lugs or finger? " part ;)
 

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And I still think it's a good idea to disassemble and look for rust or glazing, sanding plates if necessary, measure stack height, clean and reinstall. Never hurt to service a dry clutch once a year anyway.
 

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I think you haven't read the OP at the same tone than me. I took the "What can I expect when I pull it apart, banged up drive lugs or finger? " part ;)
Hi Ricko. I read the OP has a clutch rattle/grind on a hard launch. This is apparent in ALL Ducati dry clutches, standard or slipper. It is not a product of an abused clutch as the OP may believe. Nothing wrong with pulling it apart to check for any other damage but whatever he finds it won’t be the cause of his complaint.
 

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Go find TomTom’s post about greasing the clutch....as stupid as it sounds it really works! I was skeptical.
 

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Ok I found it, should have searched before I posted.
 

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Yeah, unless you are used to it dry clutches are an acquired taste.

That said it's not a bad idea to pull it apart and clean it, scuff the steels get rid of all the built up dust and any other crap that has gathered and inspect it for wear. The steels run on the hub and usually last forever, the frictions run on the basket and they cop a hiding, the basket will wear and get jagged edges, the tangs on the plates will look like shit. Generally speaking the louder the clutch the more worn out it is. That said you can probably get away with a completely shagged clutch for a long time provided you can stand the noise.....

If you replace the plate set make sure you match the materials and the type, they can have different numbers of tabs/slots and never use steel plates in an ally basket or vice versa.
If it's a slipper clutch, all the above applies, except it will slip as it wears because the stack height changes, you can re shim it up to the correct height but from my experience it's best to just buy a new plate set and make sure the height is correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Finally got into the clutch, and the fiber plate are almost GONE, like less than.010" of fiber left. So I'm getting a new set & a basket ordered (basket is pretty notched out), would it be a good idea to use the "Lithium Grease method" on the new plates? I wish someone would make plates with oversized width drive fingers, I could save the basket by milling the grooves off.
 

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I always use the grease now. I don’t understand why. But I am a believer.
 
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