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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have a good baseline number?

I bought the bike lowered, forks up through top clamp good 1.25", shock "professionally" shortened by a "reputable" shop.
I din't like the handling so before I get rid of it I want to give it another try with better suspension setup

I had Ohlins USA restore the shock to stock settings (and replace the damaged shaft, wrong spring and rusted out bushings that "reputable" shop somehow missed) now I'm trying to figure out what is the correct length of the rear link and how many lines should be showing on the fork to have a decent baseline.

Appreciate any help
 

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Retired Pipe Polisher C2H6O+
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Well, I’ll just say that generally for the best handling raise the front all the way up, top of fork tube flush with the top of the triple. Then screw the rear link all the way out which is generally 5 threads showing on both ends.

From there find tune as needed to get the feel you want.


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Discussion Starter #5
Well, I’ll just say that generally for the best handling raise the front all the way up, top of fork tube flush with the top of the triple. Then screw the rear link all the way out which is generally 5 threads showing on both ends.

From there find tune as needed to get the feel you want.


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Thanks! Will do!

Unfortunately the shock isn't coming till tomorrow, had to call UPS for an intercept because they sent it to my house (residential) and that is 5-7pm delivery time while I get UPS at work around 11. Redirecting the package to another address may not work so I requested to pick up up at the UPS hub. Hope to have it by 9am, install, test-ride, go to work, finish all last minute carp, load up and be on the road by 5pm

Trailering to Antigonish NS, leaving the truck at my friends place, riding Cabot Saturday (if I get there early enough and not too tired after 12 hour all night drive) then catching a ferry to Argentia Sunday afternoon, riding across Newfie for 6 days and taking a ferry back from Port Aux Basques. Ride back to Antigonigh, trailer home ... it should be epic if I can pull it off
 

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Retired Pipe Polisher C2H6O+
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Be sure and check your link to make sure there’s still plenty of threads in the link with 5 showing. All the Ducati’s I’ve had stated 5 threads showing is max but check it to make sure.

Sounds like a cool trip. Have a good one.


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Retired Pipe Polisher C2H6O+
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According to the manual for your bike the length of the rear link measures center of eye to eye should not exceed 255mm.

You can start there for sport riding but you may want to start out shorter if you are “touring”.


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Discussion Starter #8
According to the manual for your bike the length of the rear link measures center of eye to eye should not exceed 255mm.

You can start there for sport riding but you may want to start out shorter if you are “touring”.


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I'm always sport riding :)

Will see how bad it gets with bike raised up, it was lowered quite a bit and I was tippy-toeing, usually does not bother me but with luggage up top it may be a handful to balance at stop. I know, I know... just don't stop ;) That's my excuse Officer, and I'm sticking by it.



I've done Newfie last year as part of my Trans-Lab loop with Maat. We only spent 3 days on the Rock so I really wanted to come back. Unfortunately Maat decided to do Alaska this year and I could not take the time off required so he went alone.

He was killed only couple hours after he left home...


https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...433272183739.171330.1047206621&type=3&theater
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Last year we did ADV style, made it up to Sabena crash site...



and we had proper bikes to do it! Rotax powerd BMW (left) Cagiva/MV built Husky that I'm fixing on the right



I'm about to vandalize the sign

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just measured my link, its at 260mm (10.25" on ye olde tape measure)... Odd considering shock was shortened. Looks loke someone extended the link to the max ans then some. It did look weird with rocker pointing sharply down on the shock side, I thought it was wrong but what do i know...
 

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IIRC the top of the forks were flush with the top triple on my old 1100S
 

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Discussion Starter #12
found this on Sport Rider

front: preload: 5.5 turns out Reb: 12 clicks out Reb: 8 clicks out (Manual says 10 turns in on preload, but other settings are same)

REAR: 10mm thread showing above spring collar (I have had ohlins set mine and it's 5mm? they also changed the spring to suit my fat ass) Reb: 10 clicks out Comp: 10 clicks out
*Front ride height: 5 lines showing on fork tube above top triple clamp
Rear ride height: 3mm thread showing on linkage rod.
I did that ^ and got 255mm link length

https://www.sportrider.com/suggested-sport-bike-motorcycle-suspension-settings
 

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Retired Pipe Polisher C2H6O+
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Sounds like you got a good starting point.

But I would still start with the front end high and lower as needed after riding it. In the past, sometimes Sport Rider set ups were for an alien on a race track. And by alien I don’t mean Motogp riders, I mean someone from a different planet. :)


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Discussion Starter #14
Sounds like you got a good starting point.

But I would still start with the front end high and lower as needed after riding it. In the past, sometimes Sport Rider set ups were for an alien on a race track. And by alien I don’t mean Motogp riders, I mean someone from a different planet. :)


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I'm a former Alien, aka Resident Alien aka immigrant :)

I like nose down = quick steering.

Looking at where the rear was set I think it's the reason for fucked up handling: with Link extended and shock shortened the rocker was heavily tilted towards the shock, which increases the spring rate even more. I think that was one of the issues I have experienced, weird feedback in slow corners, as suspension trying to compress the rear would not move and it would nose-dive
 

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You are no shit an alien. :)



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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
2000 miles later I'm still not sure of the setup, thought I had preload cranked in all the way in the back for this trip but just noticed it was all the way out...

My first impression was "f*$#k this pile of shit, I want my Tuono..."
but then I shifted the luggage weight forward and it got much better, I guess the trunk mounted that far back makes it a little wobbly off road (weird feeling, maybe the Tail trying to wag the Dog?) shifted heavier stuff to side cases and then later put tent and waterproof duffle full of stuff on to a passenger seat, much better.

My biggest issue was slow corners, falling in, mid-corner at the Gap and I may not get to test if for few more weeks, planning to make a pass through on the way South, just mounted new PR 5's since my PR3's just melted away on the last trip, still got to make sure I can take those extra few days off

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Gap plans scrambled, worked through half of the weekend that I was planning to spend on the road and then flew down Tuesday. I did take a long ride on the Tuono Sunday and I don't think there is any chance that Multi will ever hold a candle to it... now what? Sell or just get used to it?

I may do the Gap in September, if I'm trucking it will be on a Tuono :)

Wonder if 1200 can be as good as the Ape? MaxMach seems to fly on his
 

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My advice would be to stick with what you know works for you. Look at me with my KTM Adventures. I've keep trying other bikes and they never make it with me, and I always wind up back on a KTM Adventure. That's just my bike, much like the Tuono is your bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My advice would be to stick with what you know works for you. Look at me with my KTM Adventures. I've keep trying other bikes and they never make it with me, and I always wind up back on a KTM Adventure. That's just my bike, much like the Tuono is your bike.
Wanna trade? MTS for KTM :) (saw your post on ADV)

I am looking for a spare motor for Tuono, did full rebuild on the suspension, including all the needle bearings and even new fork tubes, figured it's good for another 40k, never seen one with more than 80k on the motor, so I figured would be nice to have a low mileage spare when I crack 100k on it
 

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Ride height?

I had my 1000S lowered- swapped the rear Showa shock for an Ohlins from a wrecked one, then had them shorten the lowering link 1/2" (1/14" at each end) and sliding the fork up 1" in the triple clamps. Seemed to improve the handling overall by lowering the CG (although upgrading the shock and redoing the forks with RaceTech certainly had an impact). If something like that was done on yours it may explain why thread exposure, etc. isn't having the expected effect. Food for thought...

Dave
 
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