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Discussion Starter #1
So the first time I took the clutch apart to replace the plates I remembered to put it in neutral first. But after replacing the clutch pack I was having a weird issue where the clutch would not ENGAGE. I know many people have an issue where it won’t DISengage, but I could put the bike in first and let the clutch out but the bike wouldn’t go anywhere or stall? I could rev the engine with the bike in first and clutch fully released and not go anywhere :( weird.
So I just took the clutch apart to reasses and then went to put it back together and realized I didn’t put it in neutral first this time. Any tips/ideas/guidance for me would be immensely appreciated.
 

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Grasp the shifter, shift to neutral. Your bike will shift through the gears just fine with no clutch, though you might have to turn the shaft a bit to find neutral. As far as the clutch not engaging ( connecting the transmission with the rear wheel), when you have your clutch stack out measure the thickness of the total stack (stack height) vs the spec in the manual.
Too thin of a stack and the pressure plate won’t be able to press the clutch plates together to connect the hub with the outer basket and the plates will slip. On a hydraulic clutch, there is limited travel. Stack height is your clutch adjustment to have a little clearance between the pressure plate and clutch when you pull the lever in so it disengages. If the clutch slips when installed without pulling the lever, you don’t have a thick enough clutch.
 

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what gear it is in is completely irrelevant. you've assembled it wrong. sounds like the pressure plate is not sliding onto the end of the hub correctly, like it's lined up wrong. ? something like that.
 

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Did you align the pressure plate correctly?
There is a small arrow on it to show where it aligns to correspond with one of the clutch drum pins.
If not in the correct place, there will be no pressure applied by the plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When I grasp the shift lever, there is resistance and I'm not able to pull it in hardly at all. Im not sure which shaft you are referring to that will allow me to turn it to get it back into neutral. Is it the rod that goes thru to the slave on the other side?
And the stack height is another thing that has been confusing to me, because I've read on many threads that Ducati clutch pack height should be right around 38mm. But the clutch pack that I removed and the new one that I ordered which is supposed to be specifically for this bike, is like 50mm (2 in)!? That's just the friction plates and steels by themselves. (11 friction, 10 steel)
Also, the order in which these are installed has seemed to be varying greatly across threads also. Some say start with a friction plate then alternate until ending up with the last being another friction then pressure plate. Some say start with one or even two steels then alternate.
I purchased a Haynes manual, but they sent me a link that only works for windows users, so I'm waiting for support to send me one that will work on my Mac.
I did understand how to correctly line up the pressure plate.
 

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you have an aptc clutch, so you need to follow advice for that only. late m620, m695, s2r800, m696, m796.

stop reading dry clutch threads - they're irrelevant to your bike. ignore any stack height info.

if you have a ducati pack, and it's the same as what was in there, then it shouldn't be an issue.
 
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