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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

So last week I was riding home and parked at home. Walked away and got a warning from my Scorpio alarm saying low battery and sure enough the battery was dead it wouldn’t even crank.

So I installed a new battery and it cranked fine but after switching I’d off and on a couple of times it just died again! Batter warning again. And now it won’t crank.

Any ideas? Could it be the starter? Bad rectifier? I don’t think it’s the alarm system as it doesn’t draw THAT much power. It’s a brand new battery that’s been charged fully.

Cheers,

Mike



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Do you have a multimeter ? If not, get one. You switched the ignition off and on a couple of times and the new battery is dead ? I’d guess you have a bad switch or bad connection, but you need a meter to check battery condition first.
 
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And if the meter says the battery is good then you need to use the meter to check current draw to see what's killing the battery. Remove the negative connection at the battery, set the meter to the highest amp setting and install the meter leads between the negative battery lead you just removed and the battery negative terminal - a series connection. Slowly lower the amp range until you get a reading. The key off amp draw should only be a few milliamps. If the meter shows more than a few milliamps drain on the battery then you will need to methodically chase down what is drawing so much current.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys. Before I headed out to get a meter I had a look at the regulator and found that it smelled burnt and sure enough looks toasted!

Going to order a mosfet from JC. Hopefully that’s it. I’m charging up the new battery with my new Ctek charger. Hope it’ll be ok..








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Not very but that depends on perspective I suppose. Side cover comes off (need a special tool or can fab one to help pull the cover off the magnet), pop the stator off and pop on a new one. The wires run through a rubber plug and you’ll need some sealant there, but all told pretty simple. Use cardboard to replicate the bolt holes on the engine cover so you know what goes where.


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Not very but that depends on perspective I suppose. Side cover comes off (need a special tool or can fab one to help pull the cover off the magnet), pop the stator off and pop on a new one. The wires run through a rubber plug and you’ll need some sealant there, but all told pretty simple. Use cardboard to replicate the bolt holes on the engine cover so you know what goes where.


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Oh that doesn’t sound too bad! I ordered a new regulator already (mosfet). I also ordered upgraded battery leads. I know it’s hard to tell without meter readings but do you think it’s a good idea to replace the stator?

Last couple of months I’ve noticed that after starting up the bike and giving it a few minutes to warm up a bit the engine would stall as I engage the clutch handle when stoping at a nearby intersection. This issue would disappear once the engine is nice and warm. Could this be related to the stator or rectifier?
 

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If the "good" battery dies overnight just from sitting and not from the bike running than it isn't the R/R that's bad...although replacing the POS original R/R with a Mosfet is an excellent idea because it IS going to fail and do damage and leave you stranded eventually. A decent digital meter is only about $30 and is an excellent diagnostic tool for many things besides your bike, but if you don't want to buy a meter at least buy a cheapie volt meter and install that on your bike. Here' one for $1.55.

https://tinyurl.com/y6w2zpx8

I have one like this on all of my bikes. Stealthily double stick taped in front of the top triple clamp on the mounting bracket for the gauges. If I see the voltage start to drop while riding I know I'm on borrowed time and better get somewhere quick for a repair. It also tells you that the alternator is working and your battery is good. When the engine is running above idle the voltmeter should show about 14+ volts. Engine off it should show about 12.8 volts. Less than about 12.2 volts and your bike is DOA. Depending on how healthy your battery is, if the R/R cooks and stops charging the battery while you are riding you have maybe 10-12 miles before you are dead beside the road.

There are several good how-to-do-it's on checking the electrical system in earlier posts here about the junk original R/R dying.
 

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Change regulator if u have stock one mofset best option.
I delay to change mine and get burnt reg on road. Main Fuse blown no power at all.
Was lucky that happen not far from home. My father bring me new reg and fuse. Battery was already damaged but bike started and that Time i didnt know that. So after another trip with friend.
Battery was dying on road and get check engine those yellow Light. And again needed friend to go and buy new battery.
:| so now I just change faster than needed.
And yours cables already change collors.
 

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P.O mounted one of those cheap voltage meters on my Monster wired to a battery tender plug. When I disconnect the tender I plug the battery lead to the meter.
 

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Battery tender makes a nice little plug in unit now.


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Hello

I did mount/connect an Intact Battery-Guard.

This thing is monitoring the voltage 24/7 and the read out is done via Bluetooth and a smartphone through a app.

https://www.intact-batterien.de/en/battery-guard/

This little thing can be purchased all over the Bay etc.

You can find the app here:

https://itunes.apple.com/dk/app/intact-battery-guard/id934788238?l=da&mt=8

I am using the JMP app though

https://itunes.apple.com/dk/app/jmp-battery-monitor/id1035646316?l=da&mt=8

You can see the Guard here in my tray. It is the little thing in front of the fuse box. It is connected directly on the battery.

Ciaooo

Moller

 

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Hello

I did mount/connect an Intact Battery-Guard.

This thing is monitoring the voltage 24/7 and the read out is done via Bluetooth and a smartphone through a app.

https://www.intact-batterien.de/en/battery-guard/

This little thing can be purchased all over the Bay etc.

You can find the app here:

https://itunes.apple.com/dk/app/intact-battery-guard/id934788238?l=da&mt=8

I am using the JMP app though

https://itunes.apple.com/dk/app/jmp-battery-monitor/id1035646316?l=da&mt=8

You can see the Guard here in my tray. It is the little thing in front of the fuse box. It is connected directly on the battery.

Ciaooo

Moller

That's pretty nifty. Thanks for posting that, it is always great to keep learning new stuff here.

Best
 

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Ducati released a service bulletin but no recall for the regulators on Sport Classic. Had the same issue from 2008 to 2009. Finally my dealer replaced it and no problems since. The also lifted in bit a drill some air holes to it.
 

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Ducati released a service bulletin but no recall for the regulators on Sport Classic. Had the same issue from 2008 to 2009. Finally my dealer replaced it and no problems since. The also lifted in bit a drill some air holes to it.
I would completely get it out from under the seat, holes or not. It doesn't get enough air flow under the seat.
 

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I would completely get it out from under the seat, holes or not. It doesn't get enough air flow under the seat.
I'll second that motion. Especially if the new RR isn't a MosFet type.
 

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Just noticed that last post was number 666 for me. Thought I'd better do another and avoid sitting on that too long. But seriously move that RR out into the cool air where it won't get devilishly hot... It takes all of 10 minutes to do it.
 
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