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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I have been having this issue on my 06 749s for some time, at first after days ride the battery was overcharged to the point when steam was coming out of it. Replaced the battery with new AGM one. Next time the R/R packed up, the dashboard voltmeter was flashing and all, so got new MOSFET R/R. This was fine for a while, then the dashboard voltmeter started flashing again, so I checked the entire wiring and components as recommended on number of posts on this forum. Worked out that the 3 yellow wire from stator were not delivering Vac as required in the manual. Replaced stator and R/R. All was working fine so I went for days spin, and few hours in the ride the dashboard voltmeter started flashing again. Managed to get home just as battery went flat. So I am back at the square one.
I have run checks again, everything as per this post: Stator problem.
R/R is fine, stator that is in the bike reads 1.1ohms across all 3 wires, no shortening to ground (case), when bike idling, I can barely get .03Vac. This means the stator is gone again?! after barely 4 hours of ride!?
So my question is, what else could be the causing the failures?
The resistance in wires leading to R/R? Increased as the wires heated by engine block. All connectors are clean with no signs of corrosion or burns.
Could it be the rotor also? How do I check that?

I do not want to open the case, replace stator, all fluids and seals, spend hours doing this and all for a couple of hours of ride....

Thanks.
 

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Based on your post the stator appears to be OK.

There are more tests you can do. To start, often the electrical connectors can be a charging loss point. Ensure each connector is good and not corroded or burnt (use your ohm meter if necessary).

Next the system needs to be tested live. I once had a stator that static tested OK but did not generate current, when I removed the stator, the wires had corroded and crumbles in my hands.

To test the stator, set your Multimeter read to AC voltage and while the engine is running, test the voltage across each pair of leads, the 3 voltage readings should be similar. If you do the test with the regulator rectifier disconnected (open circuit) the reading may be around 70 volts (so watch out). It is better to have the stator connected (and under load) to test the regulator rectifier also the voltage will be much lower. This test will show if the stator is creating current on all three phases.

I'll add more after you complete the test and provide results.

Andrew...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Andrew,

Yeah, I did this test and was only getting 0.03Vac across all 3 connectors. Stator is not generating any substantial voltage/current when engine idling nor when it is reved.

All connectors are still as brand new.

Thanks.
 

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It seems that we're down to the stator or magnet. As indicated I had a stator that was testing OK turn out to be bad. At the time I was suspecting the magnet because I had recently replaced the stator (in kilometres - it was a few years though). However when I pulled the cover off it was clear the magnet was still working well and when I unscrewed the stator one of the cables crumbles in my fingers, so I replaced the stator and all was well.

Just to confirm, even though you said the connectors were good, have you tested the stator when the engine is running before the connector?

Andrew...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey Andrew,

Yes, checked the stator at the case with engine both at idle and revved.

It looks like I just have to pull casing off and look at he assembly again.

Thanks.
 
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