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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been reading and see multiple style Ducs have similar issues but, I have not seen any fixes.

I am having an issue with starting my bike if it sits for 12Hrs, overnight or longer.... The failed attempts will drain the battery requiring a charge and a jump. If battery pack is connected it starts without fail.

The battery is a new (12-2017) AGM YT12B-4. I have it on a battery tender, Placed volt meter prior to start and see it at 12.8v. I can hit the start button and it will turn over about 3- times. I can shut off the ignition in between each attempt and it does not help.

I was thinking about one of the hi-cap wire upgrades but, If I connect a battery pack it starts without issue.

Any suggestions on a fix or a better battery?

Friend of mine has no issues with Li Battery, starts first time, every time, and swears by them. His bike sits for months at time.
 

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A failing starter motor can draw much more amps than normal , your jumper battery has a lot more amps available. Other possibility is cables but it depends where you are connecting the jumper cables.
Battery should be ok but needs to be checked under load, use multimeter to measure voltage while cranking. If battery voltage drops below 10v while cranking either battery or starter are faulty.
 

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Sounds like a new battery is in UR future.
Note that if/when cranking, the voltage drops (sags) on any battery. If the battery is weak, and it goes below 10V, even for an instant, UR ECU will drop out and then "reset". See below.
Even new batteries can be "bad". I'd 1st, make sure UR connections are clean and tight. If it still has issues, bring it back for a refund or warranty replacement.

Below 10V, the ECU shuts down, removing the signal to the starter solenoid. At that moment, the voltage rises past 10V, ECU comes to life and if UR still holding the start button, it energizes the solenoid again. This happens in rapid fashion, maybe 2 to 3 times a second.
 

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The new lithium iron batteries, such as Antigravity, have a higher cold cranking amps and weigh next to nothing. Just beware they take a bit to "warm up" when cold. Also, a pair of high cap wires and a set of iridium plugs will help as well with cold starts.

My hyper was a bitch to start until I swapped the plugs and upgraded my battery. Now it jumps off without hesitation.

Link to a discounted antigravity stock size battery below offered by Shift tech, forum sponsor. This is what I have in my hyper & ST4.

ST204 YT12-B ANTIGRAVITY LIGHTWEIGHT BATTERY 12CELL - ON SALE - - Shift-Tech Carbon
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Jump pack is connected to battery terminals. This is a cold start. No attempts made prior. Starts without issue.

Without the pack I can Normally servo start roughly 3 attempts. Then battery will no longer go.

I will note some measurments without the pack.

TIA
 

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which model is it? monster, mts, sc?

so you can press the start button and let go and it will crank until it stops cranking without starting? and if you do that 3 times you will have a motorcycle that hasn't started and a battery that will no longer make it crank?

i'd start with a big lead kit. i like the motolectric, others find them outrageously priced. make sure all connections - battery to solenoid, solenoid to starter, engine case earth to battery earth - are clean and tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes, that is correct. Just hit the button and let go. It is a Multi.
Once started, after a ride , it will start with no issue within a few hours.
 

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>>> Jump pack is connected to battery terminals. This is a cold start. No attempts made prior. Starts without issue.
Without the pack I can Normally servo start roughly 3 attempts. Then battery will no longer go. <<<

If UR jump-pack makes it start, it sounds like the battery is marginal.
It's telling you that your starting circuit is fine, when you have a good amount of battery there. If you doubt any connections, do the 3 starting attempts with just UR battery, and then immediately run your fingers near each connection point of your large starting wires -- At the battery, the ground lug, the solenoid bolts, and the starter nut/stud.

If there are any connector issues, you will feel heat. Be careful, you can get burned, if they do become hot!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
lithium battery and No issue. I will try sensing heat though it is damn cold.
 

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F'n Li battery... are you "pre-heating" that biatch as "required" in this cold weather?

Can you swap in a conventional battery and see if the starting improves?


Not sure how/why posts 11 + 12 are switched...
 

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By "warming up" a Li. Batt for cold weather starts (and OBTW, they consider "cold", like in the 40's !!),

What you're supposed to do is turn on the key, and leave the headlight on for about 30 seconds to a minute. Then wait 1 munute. Then try to start.

You've never heard of this?

So you're quick get-away from that one-nighter just got embarrassingly long...

What it does is -- the 5 or so amps that the headlight and other stuff is drawing allows the current to gently heat the cells due to their internal resistance.

Li does not like "the cold".
Oh the price you pay for shaving a few pounds...

And that's just one thing. I've seen videos of these batteries igniting and bad news is, you cannot extinguish a Li fire...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The conventional batteries are the issue. Three conventional batteries purchased and tried. Bought a lithium battery and no issues.
 
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