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Discussion Starter #1
I have just purchase this bike a week ago. Rides like a champ but after 20 minutes of traffic riding the bike reaches 222 F the check engine light comes on and as it climbs the bike starts to lose power. I pull off...turn the bike off and on the engine light shuts off. I noticed I was low on coolant but changed the coolant and let run for 7 minutes to allow for air bubbles to release and top off coolant. Ran for another 7 minutes and the check engine light came back on at 222 F. Fans are running, coolant and engine oil levels seem fine. Please help!!!!
 

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Check to see if your model has a thermostat. They can stick open (never heats up), or close (never cools down)
 

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One thing that's often overlooked on Ducati superbikes is that both oil and coolant radiator fin damage occurs from road debris. Without protection, the fins get bent over, air flow through the radiator is reduced, so coolant and oil temperatures rise over time.

After carefully straightening the bent fins, place aluminum window screening over the radiators to prevent future damage. Screen material with larger openings won't stop small pebbles. Don't worry, the inexpensive window screen material won't significantly reduce airflow and easily conforms to the shape of the radiator. Do it on a new bike before damage occurs. It'll keep the bugs out too.

You can always reduce operating temperatures by increasing the percentage of water in any water/glycol mixture. Plain distilled water has twice the heat transfer (cooling) capability compared to glycol-based coolant mixes, but water shouldn't be used alone as a coolant since it lacks corrosion inhibitors and water pump seal lubricating properties.

WaterWetter is often used because it reduces the surface tension of water (the property that makes it bead-up) thereby improving further water's superior heat transfer ability while also adding the necessary lubricants and corrosion inhibitors. It can also be added to a water/glycol mix.

Most important, WaterWetter will reduce coolant temperatures across-the-board under all operating conditions. It's big advantage is use in modified engines having increased heat loads, and under high-load, high-rpm track conditions.

The temperature gauge displays the range of expected operating temperatures. The midpoint is selected to correspond to the nominal design operating temperature.

If you're at speed on a warm day you should expect to see temperatures between the gauge midpoint and three-quarter point, (usually 100°C for water-cooled bikes) where the maximum gauge reading indicates the boiling point of a pressurized 50/50 mix coolant, the temperature at which the pressure relief cap will likely discharge coolant to the overflow tank.

When you get stuck in stop-and-go traffic, the temperature will naturally begin to rise because now there is reduced airflow through the radiator cooling fins. During these traffic conditions, temperatures in the upper quarter of the gauge display should be EXPECTED and not necessarily be a cause for alarm or an indication of cooling system problems.

Most stock-engined sportbikes are designed to produce their best power when coolant temperatures are close to 200°F.
 

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Ever since mine was new even stopping at a traffic light on a 90-100 degree day would have it instantly at 210+ degrees.

The cooling system is apparently very marginal for in town traffic. If everything isn’t perfect it’s going to overheat.

PS. I don’t ride it much any more but if I remember the fans don’t even come on until about 210f.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Leave five bike cool down overnight. Start and hold the top of the radiator tank. If the temp is going up and the fan/s are switching on but the top of the tank is only warm then either the thermostat or water pump isn’t working. My bet it’s the thermostat. Easy fix, painful to access.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I will change the thermostat hoping that fixes the issue. Just trying to find site to purchase from.
 

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You can test the thermostat by putting it in hot water, I don't recall at what temperature it should open but would be easy to find out. Might save you having a spare sat on the shelf.

I read somewhere the ecu will cut the engine at a critical temperature to save itself, I see 112c regular, it never worries me. I don't run my 999 with a thermostat.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Any idea why the check engine light would pop on at around 220 and not throw any codes? I appreciate everyone’s input
 

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Just done some diagnosis on the cooling system on my 848 (not too dissimilar to your bike).

Things I did in order:
- Let the bike go cold (overnight for me)
- Take side fairings off, so you can get to the radiator and the hoses
- Work out where the thermostat is
- Start the bike and start it warming up
- As it warms up, keep feeling the temperature of the hoses before and after the thermostat. The hose between the thermostat and the radiator should remain cool for a while, while the hose before the thermostat and the bypass (smaller) hose from the thermostate should warm up
- As it gets hot enough to open the thermostat, the hose running from there to the radiator should start warming up (pretty quickly)
- The radiator should start warming up - firstly around the inlet point, then across the radiator and to the tank on the other side, then around the outlet point (be careful feeling the temps on the radiator, as the fans might kick in if it gets warm enough - fast spinning things love fingers)
- After all of these things start getting warm and the temperature gauge reaches the point at which the fans should kick in - well... they should kick in, I suppose.

For me, my radiator had an internal failure, so failed at that point.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Received the part and took of old thermostat coolant housing. Can’t find any information on how to remove the thermostat bing. The two screws come out but seems the aluminum housing is sealed
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Changed the thermostat bing and coolant. Ran bike to 180 turned off let cool and topped off coolant. Turned back on and let run for 10 minutes in driveway and once it got to 215 the fans popped on and the check engine light followed. Any idea on why? There are no codes popping up the bike just seams to be running way too hot!
 

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I've seen 239F on my S4RS on hot days in traffic. I've taken to turning engine off at lights on truly hot days, and restarting on light change. I have two S4RS. Both same. Suspect this is normal. Fans don't kick in till after 212F.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I've seen 239F on my S4RS on hot days in traffic. I've taken to turning engine off at lights on truly hot days, and restarting on light change. I have two S4RS. Both same. Suspect this is normal. Fans don't kick in till after 212F.
I know they run hot but why the check engine light? And one time o saw it climb to 230 then had power loss so pulled into gas station shut off 1 minute and it was good
 

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Changed the thermostat bing and coolant. Ran bike to 180 turned off let cool and topped off coolant. Turned back on and let run for 10 minutes in driveway and once it got to 215 the fans popped on and the check engine light followed. Any idea on why? There are no codes popping up the bike just seams to be running way too hot!
I got mine to 221 while sitting in traffic before I started to get moving again but no engine light.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I got mine to 221 while sitting in traffic before I started to get moving again but no engine light.
I wouldn’t be worried if the engine light didn’t pop on. Just can’t figure out what could cause that. Trying to cancel out something’s before taking to dealer .
 

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Older bike, same-ish motor; my 998 would get stupid hot in traffic (I've pegged the gauge a few times). Did a few things like getting the coolant system fairly well cleaned out, switching to a metal coolant tank (not an issue on the 999) after mine burst. I finally ended up getting a lower temp thermostat and putting it in and wiring the fans to it to bypass the ECU turn-on point; now the fans come on both at like 180 instead of 212-217. It roasts the hell out of my legs but I no longer see above about 210 on the gauge, even in stopped traffic in the middle of July here in Florida. Wondering if you could wire up a switch to manually turn the fans on; I think with mine coming on a little sooner it keeps the motor from just running away with heat.
 
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