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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

Looking for advice on where to start with this one. When the battery is in the bike the trickle charge never gets to 'maintenance' mode and after a couple of weeks of being in the bike is not capable of starting the bike. Out of the bike the battery will charge correctly.

Just in case, I replaced the battery. Same thing.

This started happening one day after attempting to start the bike and a puff (burst?) of white smoke went forward of the bike from under the front fairing.

With a charge in the battery the bike will start and run and the dash LED indicating charging system is okay.

Where do I start? All help appreciated.
 

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Just Visiting Your Planet
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10,230 Posts
Don't most charger leads have an inline fuse? I think they do. Have you checked it?
 

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As Brad says. Note that it should be "maybe" about 0.002 Amps. Less is better!

If you see more, watch the meter as you start yanking fuses, one at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Apols for late reply, I didn't receive any notifications of responses. I guess it is a setting somewhere.

Thanks all for advice. I'll give it a go and report back.
 

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Apols for late reply, I didn't receive any notifications of responses. I guess it is a setting somewhere.
Yup. You have to subscribe to the thread. Poke around the User CP to find the settings.

You can also do it through the Thread Tools menu.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Yorik. This might sound like a dumb question (electrics are not my strong point) - with the bike off, do I measure a current draw across the battery terminals? With my multimeter on milliamps I reckon Ive done two fuses, but I could have cocked things up. Using an different auto-ranging multimeter I get a zero reading on all counts.

Incidently, after about 48 hours on trickle charge it did finally get to topping out - so, I can look at the battery voltage over a week or so and see what it does.

Still want to measure at-idle amps though. Am I doing it wrong?

Many thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
found my own answer. yes - that is wrong! Disconnect one of the battery terminals and place the multimeter between battery terminal and disconnected wiring.
 

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found my own answer. yes - that is wrong! Disconnect one of the battery terminals and place the multimeter between battery terminal and disconnected wiring.
Good to see you found the corrrect way to use the Ammeter.

If you did connect across the battery, even momentarily, the fuse inside the meter is probably blown.

Also note that most VOMs have scales in amps that are too low to try to measure charging current. If you had a meter that "could" go to maybe 50 Amps, a great place to try to see the charging current on our DUCs is the huge fuse (40A fuse) near the battery. This fuse is between the battery and the RR. Yank the fuse, and insert the meter in place of the fuse.

You're better off measuring the charging voltage at the battery. At idle, it may be 13V. Above idle (2000 rpm), it should rise towards 14VDC.
 

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Note about the volts vs. ammeter modes:

On volts, it's like you're holding the 2 probes "with nothing between them".

Reading Amps: It's like you're holding a solid wire between the 2 probes.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Stick. I did learn exactly how to toast the multimeter fuse. ?

It seems I get about 1.85 milliamps with engine off so nothing alarming. The 'dont steal me' light was flashing and that bumps it up to 5-8ma every few seconds but that stops after some time.

I've got it charged so I'm just going to observe the battery voltage as the days go by.

Re the charging when running, I've no concerns there. Lcd hits 13.5 as soon as it is started. Regulator/rectifier is fairly new.
 

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Above 2K RPM the regulator should be outputting above 14.2 and not go above 14.7-14.9 max.

Below or above those voltages and the reg is not charging properly.

HTH.

M./
 
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