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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,

I am fairly new to my Duc, but I am having a problem. When I come to a stop my Duc stalls. It almost seems like the rpms are set too low. Being it is a ECU controlled fuel injection set-up I am surprised by the problem. It almost seems like there is a TPS problem or something to that effect. Does anyone out there have any suggestion of any common issues that can cause this that I can start with?

I have spent the past decade and a half as a Factory Trained Automotive Technician. I have over $65k US invested in tools in my shop. I am trying to avoid hitting the Dealership for something minor. As a Tech it pains me to through away money on a problem I may be able to fix myself. I own the Factory Service and Repair Manual for the bike.

I LOVE my bike, but this is starting to become annoying as well as embarrassing!

Thanks for any help you all can give.
 

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First thing is to get LT's manual for the quatro engines... http://www.desmotimes.com/ Lots of good instructions and garage-floor hints.

My 999S suffered from the same thing. I reset the valves, reset the TPS, sync'd the TB's, set the CO levels at 3% and the problem resolved by about 1/2 with the idle set at 1200 rpm. I didn't want a higher idle so I got a PC III usb and remapped the the bottom end and the rest of the issue disappeared. I reset the idle down to 1100 RPM and it's still good.

Just my own personal experience....
 

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mine does the same thing. i went to the stealership and the guy gave me some bs about one of the valves guides must be leaking or something. but if i hold it at like 1200 rpm it is fine when i pull in the clutch. i asked the tech to just bump the idle up, but he says its not that simple.
i have a pc3 on my 749, what can i do to the map to help?
 

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Go see Kyle at BCM in Laconia. He will set it up properly, it won't happen again. Mine stalled all the time when new, now I'm at 76,000 miles with no more issues. Kyle and BCM rock!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I know this is a VERY stupid question.........

Go see Kyle at BCM in Laconia. He will set it up properly, it won't happen again. Mine stalled all the time when new, now I'm at 76,000 miles with no more issues. Kyle and BCM rock!
I know who Kyle is, I have a friend that has known him for years owned a bunch of Ducs and recommended him. That and Laconia is only 40 minutes (20 minutes on the bike :D ) from my house.

But, and there is a but, is this an expensive repair?? I am a little pissed of that a bike bought with 76 miles on it would have major issues at 2000. I have worked for Mercedes Benz for years so I am used to "High-End" vehicles. I was hoping that the crap I heard about Ducs ALWAYS being in the shop was much like the crap about Mercedes Always being in the shop. Which is actually a bunch of garbage. I guess I, and all my riding buddies are just a little shocked is all. :confused:
 

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This is a well known issue. Please search the forums as it is discussed at least once a month or two. I should take a few minutes to write an e-book on this problem and sell it online. I'd make a killing! :D

The section of your service manual that discusses the CO% values for race trim is the key to solving your problems.

This is a cheap fix and only require the following in addition to standard hand tools:
Carb balance stick,
Technoresearch VDST,
Gas analyser (CO%)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Where could I purchase said tools??

This is a well known issue. Please search the forums as it is discussed at least once a month or two. I should take a few minutes to write an e-book on this problem and sell it online. I'd make a killing! :D

The section of your service manual that discusses the CO% values for race trim is the key to solving your problems.

This is a cheap fix and only require the following in addition to standard hand tools:
Carb balance stick,
Technoresearch VDST,
Gas analyser (CO%)
Thank so much Silversled for both of your posts. Do you happen to know where I could squire the 3 tools you mentioned. I am certainly not adverse to buying tools. Lord knows I have plenty already, but I would like to be able to have tools require to do my own service. I have worked on some of the most sophisticated pieces of automotive machinery on the planet, so I am very confident in my technical abilties.

Thanks again for your help.
 

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LucDuc,

For your convenience, below is a link to my post on the "other forum". This is the procedure I used on my bike to solve the stalling problem I had. It's origins come from the "CAG Tune" method.

http://www.ducatispot.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1888&page=8&highlight=silversled
where would you recommend getting this problem resolved in the tampa area? euro cycles hasnt a clue.
when i pull the clutch in it drops to under 1k idle and stalls. if i hold it at like 1200 it never stalls. seems like if the idle was turned up it would be fine, but apparently thats not that simple?
 

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First thing is to get LT's manual for the quatro engines... http://www.desmotimes.com/ Lots of good instructions and garage-floor hints.

My 999S suffered from the same thing. I reset the valves, reset the TPS, sync'd the TB's, set the CO levels at 3% and the problem resolved by about 1/2 with the idle set at 1200 rpm. I didn't want a higher idle so I got a PC III usb and remapped the the bottom end and the rest of the issue disappeared. I reset the idle down to 1100 RPM and it's still good.

Just my own personal experience....
A PCIII will not have any effect from idle to 4000rpms. A Nemisis will, but not a piggy vback system such as the PCIII. It might make the bike run better, but for idle issue's such as stalling there are other solutions.
Sometimes just changing the plugs will cure the stalling. It a simple task....just make sure you gap the plugs correctly.
My 999 also had a stalling porblem. I had a PCIII installed and although the overall performance of the engine improved the stalling was still there. To correct that I installed a new ECU that came w/ m Termignoni 54mm full exhaust kit. I had a Termi slip on before, I just removed that and installed the full. Surprisingly it cured the stalls.
But try a plug change and see what happens.
 

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Thank so much Silversled for both of your posts. Do you happen to know where I could squire the 3 tools you mentioned. I am certainly not adverse to buying tools. Lord knows I have plenty already, but I would like to be able to have tools require to do my own service. I have worked on some of the most sophisticated pieces of automotive machinery on the planet, so I am very confident in my technical abilties.

Thanks again for your help.
Carb balance stick, - Carbtune is the best but I made one with clear tubing, a yard stick, and ATF(red) fluid for about $5.
Technoresearch VDST, - Technoresearch or Desmotimes
Gas analyser (CO%) - Desmotimes

You can see all three in these pictures:

Technoresearch VDST running on a spare computer and homemade manometer (yellow yardstick hanging off ceiling)


Gunson Gastester (black box with red CO% readout):
 

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where would you recommend getting this problem resolved in the tampa area? euro cycles hasnt a clue.
when i pull the clutch in it drops to under 1k idle and stalls. if i hold it at like 1200 it never stalls. seems like if the idle was turned up it would be fine, but apparently thats not that simple?
Jeremyh007,

Of course Eurocycles doesn't have a clue. :) They are a straight up dealer who only knows what Father Ducati tells them. I call those dealers "part changers". I would recommend Sebastian who owns Melillimoto up in Ocala (www.melillimoto.com). Many of my friends will trailer their bikes up to him from Tampa/St. Pete. He is apparently a master! I do all my own work so I've never used him before.

Unfortunately there is no "idle" screw on our bikes like the good 'ole carb days. Final idle is controlled by the air bypass screw and fuel trim in the ECU.
 

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Jeremyh007,

Of course Eurocycles doesn't have a clue. :) They are a straight up dealer who only knows what Father Ducati tells them. I call those dealers "part changers". I would recommend Sebastian who owns Melillimoto up in Ocala (www.melillimoto.com). Many of my friends will trailer their bikes up to him from Tampa/St. Pete. He is apparently a master! I do all my own work so I've never used him before.

Unfortunately there is no "idle" screw on our bikes like the good 'ole carb days. Final idle is controlled by the air bypass screw and fuel trim in the ECU.
looks to be a 2hr trip for me. guess i will have to schedule a day to get up there and see if he can fix it
 

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A PCIII will not have any effect from idle to 4000rpms. A Nemisis will, but not a piggy vback system such as the PCIII. It might make the bike run better, but for idle issue's such as stalling there are other solutions.
..........................................
Sorry, but you are mis-informed..........

You would be correct if you were talking about the new PC III ex, but you will note that I referenced the PC III usb. It can affect the A/F map from 2% throttle and 750 rpm onward.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for all the help so far!!

I am going to get the tools to start to tackle this issue myself. I will keep all posted as to the progress.

Thanks again!:D
 

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I had a stalling problem on my 999 that just got progressively worse. I was forced to become an expert of TPS rset, throttle body balance etc.

In the end it turned out to be a spring that was installed the wrong way around in the ignition coil.

Hope yours is an easy fix

SF
 

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Stalling

I had a similar situation, and began to watch for the conditions that caused it. There were times where the starting power on my 05 749 battery was extremely weak (and when duc dealer reset ECU they had a "low battery" warning pop up) so I replaced my battery. They suggested if I had a weak battery could effect fuel system on start up???? Anyway, the stalling still occured from time to time, but never after stalling, when I would re-fire it. The other day I go to start my bike and the motor struggled to crank but started and the bike stalled about ten miles into the ride. Since I know the battery is fully charged, could this be caused by a failed or sticky clutch slave? It almost seems like something is limiting the bike from cranking.....note this does not happen when bike is warmed up. This also does not occur when bike cold but motor fires over strong. I am trying to isolate the conditions that cause this to avoid costly shop visit.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update requiring more help please!!!

My initial issue has gotten substantially worse now. She will not stay running unless I am on the throttle or I have the cold start half way open and even then it stalls sometimes if I come off the throttle quick. When on the rare instance I can actually get it to stay running i sound like I have air pushing out of the engine. Like a whooshing sound, but not a backfire sound. although it does that on occasion too when I am accelerating.

I am not sure but it seems like the timing is off, like the valves are opening when the cylinder should be compressing. I may not have any idea what I am talking about either. From my 16 years experience as a Automotive technician though, I am fairly certain the horizontal cylinder is not firing or at the very least is misfiring. I still don't know as much as I would like about this system, but I would have figured on getting some sort of check engine light as you would with a car with a driveability problem.

Thus far I have removed the timing covers (belts appear to be in great shape albeit a little loose), lifted the tank, pulled the plugs (found the horizontal plug fooled BAD), checked the coils springs (installed correctly and not corroded), Air filters are clean.

Bikes Vitals:
2005 749 Biposto
3600 miles
Purchased 3 months ago with 76 miles on it
(Never seemed to run as strong as I thought it should even then)

Ok, so I ordered my tools to start working on this.

Things I ordered from DesmoTimes.com:

VDST from TechnoResearch
Gastester from Gunson
Cam Belt Eccentric Wrench
Cam Lock tool
Along with various other odds and ends

I also purchased NGK Laser Iridium plugs.

I plan on:
Bleeding the clutch master
Replacing the plugs
Running an injector cleaner though it
Adjusting the Timing Belt tension
Resetting the TPS
Balancing the Throttle Bodies
Adjusting the CO output
Flush the coolant (nothing to do with this issue, but doing it anyway)

Any other ideas on what else I should do while I am working on the bike????
 
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