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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,

I bought a used 1000DS multi a while back. It's not my first doc but given it's age (2004) i wanted to update the maintenance before I put serious miles on it. So I did the following ...

1. Replaced the air filter
2. Changed the oil
3. Replaced the timing belts
4. Adjusted the valves
5. Replaced the dead battery
6. Replaced a jacked up old clutch (new Barnett kit plus o-rings and LT's clutch basket).

Upon reassembly this puppy runs like garbage. It's nearly impossible to keep running and when I do get it to run down the road it has next to no power. All three timing marks (layshaft, and both front/rear camshafts) line up just fine (see picture). Any stabs in the dark as to where to start?
 

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How do the plugs look? Test the spark while you have the plugs out. If you have a compression tester, go ahead and test that too while the plugs are out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Cams were not locked but if you look at the pictures above they are all currently in the correct position. If I'm wrong, please tell me, but I've double checked that every way I know how.


In regards to compression ... I'm at 120-121 psi (cold) on both cylinders. I haven't found what the value is supposed to be on the 1000ds motors yet but I'm digging into it now. The plugs look well used but functional.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK, upon further investigation 120psi is low. I believe the standard is 135-165. I'm going to go double check my valve clearances to see if, perhaps, I have them adjusted too loose (I adjusted to the loose side of things).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nope, however I just took the belts off, quadruple checked everything and saw an additional 10-13psi added. I'm going to re-tension the belts and see what happens. Perhaps you you were right, Tamworth. I do hope you were :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So, the bike ran a bit better. After about 20 minutes it would idle, although not strongly enough to give me confidence. Perhaps plugs next. Man, this is frustrating. If feels like the brakes are stuck on when I give it the throttle. Just way underperforming what I think it should be.
 

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So compression is decent and spark plugs look ok. Did you check the spark? Decent color?

I'm going to assume the valve clearances are correct. The timing looks correct.

My next direction would be to look at the fueling system. You didn't mention anything about replacing the fuel filter. I've definitely had clogged/dirty fuel filters give me symptons like you are describing. One was a brand new filter that was a manufacturing defect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks, t-bills. I'll jump on that tomorrow morning. I am going to go ahead and replace the plugs to be safe.

I replaced one fuel line and will go ahead and replace the other. I'll also check and confirm that my new fuel connection isn't leaking causing low fuel pressure.

Do you know if the fuel filter is inside the tank on these? It's new to me but I did not see an external fuel filter at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Upon further observation, check out these plugs. The front plugs are decent. The rear plugs are nasty and fouled. I'll start with replacing them but am wondering if the coil designated for them may have an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I ordered 4 new NGK iridiums from NAPA that should be in this morning. It is CRAZY how wide the pricing on these are. Cyclegear was almost $13, dealer is like $18, and NAPA is $7.00 a piece. I'll report back soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It was running fine before. It had a slow start (due to a dead battery) but it had full power. Clearly done something.

I'm wondering if the first round of bad timing fouled the plugs. To get to the valve shims you have to remove most of the plug wires, coils, etc so I'll double check those connections as well.

Still, it could be that I may need to take another look at the valve adjustment I did. I went over that thing a billion times (due to how obnoxious removing and installing the Multistrada tank is) to make sure but I'm clearly the cause of my own problems here somewhere.

The only previously obvious issue with the bike was that the clutch would not shift into neutral at all and upon inspection the basket was TOAST so I replaced both the basket and the clutch pack.
 

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The fuel filter is in the tank on these. I’ve not worked on one of these Multistradas, so I’m not sure of the hose clamp situation. Some have used hose clamps that are single use crimp design. Get some worm clamps for the filter change in case it has these single use clamps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Sounds good! I actually bought a bunch of the single use oetiker clamps to replace a few fuel lines. I like them overall.
 

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It is likely (though not 100%) that it is something you touched. Your cam timing looks fine.
How are you setting belt tension?
You state it is like the brakes are on, if you put it on a stand can you rotate the rear wheel easily?
I am wondering if it is more a clutch issue as you changed this at the same time. Try just swapping the oem clutch pack for a test to see if it is better.

Did you do anything with throttle body sync?
TPS?
Battery out?
Any chance you installed the battery cables or another wire in reverse?
If you run voltage down a ground wire you can fry the internal ground in the ecu. often the bike will go full rich when this happens and it will run poorly for sure. Can you check CO?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hey DucVet. Thanks a ton for your input above. I don't have a rear stand but will see if I can get the rear wheel up with a bottle jack this evening. As for the OEM stuff, I dumped it. It was so bad I couldn't imagine finding a new use for it. However, the master cylinder and slave cylinder may need bled. The fluid doesn't look great so i'll add that to the list of things. Could be clutch drag. I'm planning to disassemble (take pictures of every piece IN ORDER) the clutch and reassemble (pictures again) to make sure that it has been done correctly. They aren't that complicated so I assume it has been done correctly.

Another point of note is that the clutch feel and function is better than before it was replaced. I CAN find neutral when the bike is running and rolling (though not a breeze) where as before it was an impossibility.


I'll answer your questions and then give an update below it ....

Ducvet's questions:

  1. How did I tension the belts: I tensioned based on LT's book. 4mm hex key on the vertical (rear) cylinder and 1mm feeler gauge on the front cylinder.
  2. Throttle Body Syn: I did not do any adjustment of the sync screws on the throttle body. I did, however, replace one of the fuel lines that runs from the fuel pump to the throttle body.
  3. TPS: I did not thing to the TPS stuff. I didn't really have to move anything in that realm so I left it alone
  4. Battery Out: I did remove the battery but did not hook anything up backwards. I fried a car ECU early in my 20's and have been crazy careful about this stuff since. I have charged the battery (new) while connected to the bike but all connections were made correctly (positive to positive, negative to negative) and only used a 3A charger.
A Quick Update:

After replacing plugs (all four, new iridiums) the bike WILL idle but is still hard to start (whether in neutral or in gear). It doesn't take much to make it shut off either (just the wrong action on the clutch lever). Upon return from a 10 minute quick ride I pulled the plugs (I'll take pictures later). The front plugs were on their way to a nice tan color. The rear plugs were still shiny metal. It clearly smells rich as the fuel curve is not correct or I'm not consistently burning off the fuel and have a spark problem. Not sure which at this point. Its beginning to seem that pulling the tank again is inevitable. I'm going to look over everything one more time and see if there is anything glaring that I can attack before doing so. Mine is definitely one of the ones that swells and doesn't go back on without some persuading.

More to report later after further investigation but for now ... back to work and out of the garage.
 

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The starting on these bikes are NOT great Imho at anytime in part due to the idle air control. I own a 04 1000ds and might swap mine to a cable at some point in the future. There are some IAC (idle air control) mods people have done and one is to simply clean it out. The IAC is a computer controlled air leak so if the ecu thinks the IAC is open but you have a blockage the bike does not know.

I am wondering if something with the clutch install is adding increased drag on the system and when coupled with a weak idle the bike does not work right. Keep a eye on the plugs to make sure it is not fouling them. The iac should control idle but know that the ecu is richening the mixture at every start no matter if the bike is hot or cold. This could darken a plug for sure until it burns off so the next question is should the other plug look the same? is that cylinder getting fuel?
 
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