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Discussion Starter #41
After you fix your burned out sprag clutch you should really, desperately, check your valve clearances and cam timing. Most starting and idle issues appear to be derived from these or the TPS, which you can check for free using guzzidiag as mentioned before. With 26k miles, very poor compression on the front cylinder and no mention of this maintenance, they are due.
This has been the goal ever since doing the forks, belts, clutch and other small items just to get it to a consistent running and rideable state. I knew I’d be close or due with no knowledge from PO so checking won’t hurt.

I will say cam timing wise I’m not sure what more can be done once I’ve done a belt job and seen all marks lining up.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
New compression test results: 200 Vertical / 155 Horizontal. Had WOT with the plug still in other cylinder. Sprag pretty much gave out after doing the horizontal test.
Ran a leak down check. Vertical had roughly 2.5-5% loss, while Horizontal had roughly 10-15%. I didn’t search for the vertical leak but horizontal was coming through the breather tube on the case. Not sure what an acceptable loss amount coupled with a near 25% difference in compression PSI means health wise, never got that in depth with my aircraft recip class.

I’m also assuming I was at TDC on compression but not 100% sure either fwiw. But if coming through the breather then that really just leaves rings? Since I can’t start it to get it warm, I’m not sure if any thermal expansion will cause a lower leak value to occur of if this is to be expected. I’m also going to assume because of this, replacing valve shims is unnecessary at the time (but I may go ahead and check sometime this week since the tank is off and the rad will need to be drained...
 

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While the difference in compression and leak down are not going to give you best performance, economy and smooth running those numbers will not stop the engine from running.
Fix the clutch so it will crank properly.
How old is the fuel in it and what fuel is it?
 

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Discussion Starter #44
While the difference in compression and leak down are not going to give you best performance, economy and smooth running those numbers will not stop the engine from running.
Fix the clutch so it will crank properly.
How old is the fuel in it and what fuel is it?
I dumped whatever fuel it had when I got the bike and before new tires, rode it to a station and filled up with 93 (highest available).
I would discount this being an issue as I have siphoned half of the fuel out at one time and used it in a lawn mower that ran fine. Also used the same station to fill up when I had my R6 and never noticed an issue there through the summer. The injectors appear to spray normally but fuel pressure is unknown. But at this point I’d like to replace just the sprag.
If it runs and rides and starts consistently after this, I will consider selling for a Monster maybe. These fairings are overrated.
 

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First. Change the spray and check the crank angle sensor gap.
Second. Check ONE HUNDRED AND TEN PERCENT THAT THE CAM TIMING IS CORRECT.
Third. Regardless of what you think, replace the plugs. AND MAKE SURE THERE IS A STRONG SPARK.
Fourth. MAKE it possible to check the tps.
Fifth. Remove the airbox lid and watch that the injectors are doing.
If something is amiss then this procedure will show it. The injectors on a 999 dribble fuel at cranking speed, don’t be concerned. Make sure the battery is ONE HUNDRED PERCENT HEALTHY.
I know this will sound rude but if you continue to fuck around and do things at random all you’ll do is frustrate yourself and get nowhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
First. Change the spray and check the crank angle sensor gap.
Second. Check ONE HUNDRED AND TEN PERCENT THAT THE CAM TIMING IS CORRECT.
Third. Regardless of what you think, replace the plugs. AND MAKE SURE THERE IS A STRONG SPARK.
Fourth. MAKE it possible to check the tps.
Fifth. Remove the airbox lid and watch that the injectors are doing.
If something is amiss then this procedure will show it. The injectors on a 999 dribble fuel at cranking speed, don’t be concerned. Make sure the battery is ONE HUNDRED PERCENT HEALTHY.
I know this will sound rude but if you continue to fuck around and do things at random all you’ll do is frustrate yourself and get nowhere.
I’m still waiting on the cables from lonelec to arrive, but can the crank angle gap be found by using guzzidiag?
I’ll be looking into cam timing. A different thread had a nice video linked that I’ll attempt to replicate.
Plugs were replaced less than two weeks ago, and after pulling them out for the tests last night they were still brand new. Replaced the NGK iridiums that i put in two months ago with the Champs.
Will check tps when cables arrive
After researching injectors a while ago I observed them to appear as normal. I would rule this out, but alas, I do not know if fuel pressure is at 44psi or so (iirc this was the correct value to be at?)

Call me a fool for mostly working things in a completely incorrect manner too, please. The bike is not stored at the same place where I live so whenever I do get the chance to work on it I often get ahead of myself and over complicate things beyond necessary. I also don’t own myself a lot of the specific tools/gauges needed and borrow from friends, but one must start somewhere. It looks like I need a few things to do the cam timing properly, and the sprag and other items are taking a while to ship due to the virus. Above all though, I always appreciate the help here and ideas, I just may be a bit stubborn at accepting what the best course if action is at times.
 

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Do it in the order I suggested. No need to go nuts on the cam timing just MAKE SURE you aren’t a tooth out. CHANGE THE PLUGS. Just use the none iridium cheapies for the moment. Crank angle sensor is checked with a feeler gauge and the tps voltage can be checked by tapping into the wires.
YOU NEED TO BE METHODICAL AND DO ALL THE WHOLE PROCESS. Otherwise you are just wasting your time and that of anyone else here that is trying to help you.
 

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Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
Do it in the order I suggested. No need to go nuts on the cam timing just MAKE SURE you aren’t a tooth out.
If by cam timing you mean having the T's line up correctly during a belt change, then yes, I'm sure they are correct. If by a more in depth procedure of degreeing the cams, such as this video, then no, I'm unsure, however I don't feel like it should be as significant to affect the bike in even simply starting. Or maybe once again, I'm wrong.. But I do know that my marks lined up with what they were before, and are correct to specs.

TPS voltage check - is that in the service manual or no? Set of values that I'm looking for? / Edit: Did you mean resistance check? This looks easy to do, just need to find where the wires are.
 

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can i assume that nobody touched the belts and it ran fine? if so then remove the airox lid and look at what the injectors are doing when you crank it.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Sprag kit got delivered early. Once I got everything taken apart down to it, I was greeted with metal shavings and hair-like metal pieces everywhere... the spring had completely failed and the longest piece still intact was roughly 14mm long. Installed the new piece however I’ve run into a snag, as the inside diameter of the gear is larger than the needle roller bearing. Now I’m kinda screwed, as I read reviews that this piece should fit, and reviews that said their dimensions matched that to oem parts.
I’m curious to think that this really is intended for the 999S/R and not the 999, but I’m unsure. Do they use larger roller bearings that can be used on a standard US 999?
982073


982074


982076


982078
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I figured and was leery about purchasing the kit however it is listed as a compatible part for the R variant, but ebay as listed as compatible for a biposto. This was also the only kit listed as compatible too so maybe a fluke.
The case also had a paper gasket, and I partly want to assume the reason for such was to shorten or swap the spring. I couldn't see any other changes while inside of it. I'll wait and see if the company offers to ship out a correct gear, but I highly doubt it.
 
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