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You don't actually have to completely remove the cams to replace the outer oil seal if that's what failed.. If you have replacement cam gear nuts and the tool you can pull the gear and slide the cap off the end of the cam and leave it in place.

They easily slip on and off the ends of the cam with a little twist to free the o-ring. This is possible because the caps have to come off anyway to actually remove the cam and it will be easier to pull the gear with the cam in the head and the gear locking tool installed anyway for leverage.

I've tried installing the gears with the cam sitting on the tool bench and there's no way to hold it properly. Leaving it in the head and using the other cam gear to lock the one you want to remove it the easiest way. They are keyed so you can crack loose then remove the lock tool to spin the nut off.

Edit: All moot if it's not the outer oil seal which it might not be in which case yes pulling the cam is less work for just the o-ring. They are cheap though as other's have mentioned. You can make a rocker pin tool with some metal rod, a tap and a washer with some nuts holding it one end and slide a big socket on it like a slide hammer.
 

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Rare...but it does happen lol. If you have the cam nut holding tool I still recommend the gear lock so you can get more purchase as the little nubbins that lock into the gear and cam can be finicky.

Curious to see what has failed once you get in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I seriously appreciate all of the responses... did not want you guys to think I was blowing you off, just been really busy at work the last couple of weeks with runner/trumpet revisions for MonoR. First use of 3D printed intake components ever on a production vehicle. The DSM Novamid print media is pretty awesome stuff...
985569

Anyway, I'll try to wrap up the list of parts list of things I think I'm going to need to do this repair, and then ask you guys to look it over. Again, I appreciate the help with this.
 
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