First off my question, will a new, supposed virgin, Ducati Performance ECU #96506100B made for the 01-S4 work with a bike that has had the IMO removed with unchipped keys?
The back story of how I got to this point, about a month ago I picked up this 01 S4 from our local Copart. Bike was unwrecked, and came without keys, picked her up for only $450 bucks plus fees, paper work said it was donated, bike has 18k miles. First off bike was in fantastic shape, other than the obvious that it had been sitting out in the weather for a while, all fluids looked to be recently changed, no grime, dirt or leaks to indicate this bike was anything but loved by the previous owner. Only issue, without keys I had no way of testing anything, so I swapped out all the locks and ignition with a spare set I had (Unchipped keys) at least now I could test everything, of course bike would not start due to the immobilizer so after a search I found a guy in the UK who could disable the IMO feature in the ECU, guy Fixed it and returned the ECU this week. Before attempting a start I decided to check for spark. Well, here is where it gets interesting, I get a single spark soon as I crank bike then nothing, I get same result on both cylinders, turn off key try again, same result. Needless to say bike did not start when I hooked everything up. So after some forums searches I found another guy in the UK who had the same issue, after months of failed attempts and about 10 pages of advice he swapped ECU and bike fired up. So fast fwd to today. I found me a new DP ECU #96506100B which is made only for the 01-S4 with slip-ones and open air box, so I bought it last night.
Some cool history with this bike i was able to uncover, Bike was originally bought in Italy, I assume by an Army guy/gal, as it has a service decal from Team Agostini in Vicenza Italy under the seat, with the name D. Croket written with a white paint pen, I assume so dealer didn’t mix up seats while it was being serviced. Bike has European switch gear so lights can be turned on/off or use the mandatory parking light for nighttime parking in Europe. There is also a army base decal on the fork leg for a base in Alabama. So my guess D.Croket bought this in Italy, when they got orders back to the USA they brought the bike with them, somewhere along the line, bike possibly died due to a bad ECU it sat around as owner couldn’t get it fixed, then ended up in this situation either abandoned, stuck in a storage unit, left with a relative, who knows. My only hope is I get get her running again and finally hear this ole girl purr after all these years
in that case it has a side stand switch that is a complete cutout, not a "run in neutral" logic circuit. so clarify that first. it would stop it cranking, but i'm not sure if it's an ecu input or an ecu power related thing. it might just shut down ecu power.
otherwise, start button is an earth input into the ecu, which then earths the starter solenoid earth. if the immo has been disabled via the ecu being reflashed, then it should start regardless of keys or immo being correct or connected. so either the guy in the uk did you over, or there is something else wrong. that is the only way to disable the immo.
a new "virgin" ecu should start and run if the immo is happy. if you have keys that aren't coded to the immo it won't be happy, and i don't think in that instance it would start. virgin only means "not previously coded". the immo input is still required, as when the immo is happy it sends a signal to the ecu telling it that it is ok to activate the starter. no immo signal, no crank.
s4 ecu did shit themselves a bit, but usually it was a "lost spark on horizontal" issue.
Thanks for the info, I've looked several times at the side-stand and I haven't seen a switch which I thought was odd, so either it was bypassed or possibly never had one being a Euro-spec bike. I will double check that tonight, there should at least be a disconnected harness in the vicinity of the side-stand.
interesting, there is not a side stand switch, nor an obvious connector that's unplugged. when I have more time I'm going to have to dig into this more. thanks for the info
Found the connector, side stand has been bypassed with a jumper wire and if I remove jumper wire it kills the starter switch. However in the same location of that connector it did find a 2 wire loom that has been cut, inside that loom are a white, and black/purple wires. Not sure if that is the remnants of the side stand harness or something else, next step will be to trace and find out where they go.
My 2017 Monster 1200S has 4250 Miles. Low fuel light blinks slowly. The RANGE shows "---" and the gas pump on the gauge itself turns red, shows empty and both blink rapidly. Has anyone had this issue and what was the repair?
I'm a tall guy (6'5") and riding my monster can be unpleasant. I was wondering if anyone in the Taxachusetts area had a sargent/saddlemen/sellerie seat that they are either trying to part with or would let me sit on to see if it's worth the $500.
The other forums are running this thread so I figured we should do one too. Post your bike pictures here.
I might as well start it off
This is an old shot, pre-tail bob & brake upgrade. I'll try to post some more to it later.
So I bought my S4RS at the end of the year last year. It had 25,000 kms on it. Full Zard system, Airbox mod and DNA filter. The original owner confirmed that he had never had a tune put on the bike. I was pretty surprised at how well it ran but there were a few things I did not like. For example...
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