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  Topic Review (Newest First)
Apr 16th, 2019 1:00 pm
anojones On my 2013 the lever is very soft compared to other bikes I've had. However, I can kick on the ABS stomping on it in a parking lot. It is super slow to stop, but I suppose if the ABS is on I am at limits of traction anyway. For the street, I don't have a problem since I'm all about the front brake. Might be an issue for those who are doing more offfroad.
Apr 16th, 2019 11:20 am
herveyw Sometimes I think this "crappy rear brake" thing feeds upon itself, we read a number of threads with lots of replies and complaints and that sets us off on a journey. "Soft" vs "Firm" always seems subjective to me, especially if you have more than one bike and are [subconsciously] making comparisons. I spent some time bleeding my rear brake last year; I also adjusted the pedal position which made quite a bit of difference to "feel". Obviously, one should take care to ensure that the brake is not binding at rest.

Now my test is simple: can I lock the rear wheel and trigger ABS at low speed, with no front brakes? If it's yes, then I'm done and stop worrying about it: in a real emergency, you're going to pull and stamp down much harder than normal; all the weight of this big bike is going pitch forward and the load is all going to be on the front tyre and brakes; imho, the contribution of the rear brake is probably limited, relatively speaking, under those conditions.
Apr 16th, 2019 10:55 am
[email protected]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Piscatory_6 View Post
I read somewhere that a guy put a banjo bleeder on the rear master cylinder and no problems since. I'm thinking of trying that.
While it may have worked in the one instance, I'm not convinced that bleeding at the lowest point in the circuit will provide consistent results. The fact there was air at the lowest point I think is more indicative of an ineffective bleed to begin with.
Apr 16th, 2019 6:16 am
Wolverine1
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcv57 View Post
Should i assume that any bikes manufactured after 2011 have this fix installed? I'm debating whether to bring this to the dealer or not. I'm wondering if installing the HH sintered pads will help at all
The HH helped mine. I think you need to re-bleed until the rear circuit is air free. I bleed with fresh Motul RBF600 every spring and I always have a firm pedal. A proper bleed is key but it seems most can't achieve it.
In '13 they got a 45 degree outlet on the master and a larger bore but if you keep reading that wasn't an end all fix.
Apr 15th, 2019 3:03 pm
U235Power
Quote:
Originally Posted by porkrind View Post
What I dorm which gets me to a sort of acceptable rear brake is this...

I unmount the caliper and undo all the clips that remain the brake line. That gets me enough free ply that I can put the caliper on the rear seat, and with some careful use of twine, I can keep the brake line routed so it doesn't dip or create a low spot on its way up to the seat.

Then I use my Motive power bleeder (the cap I had for my Lotus and my BMW conveniently fits the rear reservoir) filling it with a liter or more of fluid, pressurizing it, then letting it pump almost all of that fluid through the system at pressure.

I wish there was a way to trigger the ABS pumps while doing this but thatís a pipe dream. I am reasonably convinced that the last air bubble Iím trying to eliminate is in the plumbing for the linked brakes and thus not part of the regular fluid path. Maybe.

Anyway, I can lock up the rear, even if it is a little spongy. And I can definitely feel the difference when the computer is doing the linked braking thing as it firms up all of a sudden.

Itís livable. If it starts to irritate me I just wind on and pop a small wheelie. Then all is well.
I did something similar with success... In addition I added a speed bleeder and swapped to Dot 5.1 based on a local non-affiliated shop mechanics recommendation. After the bleed, I did a few short runs to activate the ABS (I used urban mode as that has the most intrusive ABS). Rear brake has been great for over a year now.
Apr 15th, 2019 1:56 pm
pcv57 I was mistaken about the front calipers...the bleed nipple is at the top. Front brakes have been bled and are ok. I removed the rear caliper, raised it up and bled it and got some air out of the line. I installed a bleeder at the ABS but I have not gotten any air out of it yet. I also took it out and engaged the ABS on the rear brake only 10 times as previously posted. The rear brake was much better but after a 200 mile ride, it's back to being soft again.
I was a post about a service bulletin addressing the rear brake issue but it's dated back from 2011. Should i assume that any bikes manufactured after 2011 have this fix installed? I'm debating whether to bring this to the dealer or not. I'm wondering if installing the HH sintered pads will help at all
Apr 10th, 2019 7:44 pm
Piscatory_6 I read somewhere that a guy put a banjo bleeder on the rear master cylinder and no problems since. I'm thinking of trying that.
Apr 10th, 2019 10:00 am
suruppak On my 2011, I put the bleeders on the ABS unit, then I always reverse bled the back brakes. Super-easy, takes 10 minutes and it's done.

I got the giant syringe-thingy from Aerostich.
Apr 9th, 2019 6:03 pm
Wolverine1 I’ve worked at a motorcycle shop for the past 4 years servicing quite a few bikes. I’ve never seen a front caliper with the bleed nipple at the bottom.
Apr 9th, 2019 5:51 pm
Wolverine1
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcv57 View Post
What I don't understand is that the front caliper bleed nipples are on the bottom so how come you don't have to do that to the front too?
Can you please share a pic of your front caliper showing this?
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