|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|May 29th, 2019 11:52 am|
|max_gain||Ive always used manufacturers fully synthetic, Shell Advance Ultra 4T 10w-40 Performance Synthetic Bike..|
|Jan 26th, 2018 12:43 am|
Any full synthetic that is formulated for motorcycles will be fine. If you have a dry clutch, you donít even need the oil to be formulated for motorcycles. I used whatever motorcycle synthetic was available in my M900 Monster, changed at 5K to 6K typically (but sometimes as long as 8K), for the 24 years and 265K miles I had that bike, and it never needed a rebuild of the engine or transmission. Your needs probably wonít exceed that.
|Jan 25th, 2018 10:35 pm|
I also read the blog from 540 rat about his oil testing. I'm inclined to believe in his totally independent results more than what a company says about their or a competitors oil. He actually purchased the oils tested or people sent it to him so it is off the shelf stuff and no bias.
Based on his findings I've been using Castrol 20w-50 long life which is formulated for higher mileage engines. I have had the oil tested after 6000 km and it came back all within normal range with minimal viscosity drop and most of the zddp still available.
|Dec 18th, 2017 6:02 am|
I use shell advance 15w50 and change it every year or 12000km as per ducati manual. I have never had a problem with this oil on a air cooled engine all year. My winters are here around 5-10C and summers around 28-35C
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|Dec 18th, 2017 2:34 am|
|elevated||Hi. In the our region we usually use two type of synthetic oil 10W40 for liquid cooling engines and 20W50 for air cooling. 15W50 fits for both systems. Change interval is 5000-6000 km is normal for it, if you dont use bikes often as racing bikes on the tracks. I use Eni brand.|
|Nov 10th, 2017 11:11 pm|
I came across an oil fanatic who has scientifically tested hundreds (no typo) of oils and written a nice paper on the results. Based upon his article I'm running an odd choice in my water cooled Suzuki SV1000S and Triumph TT600 - Mobile 0W40 synthetic. That oil is designed for european turbo engines. It's not rated MA for motorcycles but so far so good with no clutch slippage. Was running Rotella 15W40 synthetic in the Suzuki and would get a bearing knock at idle after hard running. That's gone with the Mobil 0W40. I'm going to run a Castrol GTX 20W50 conventional in my 900 Sport and change it often. That oil offers more protection than the Mobile 15W50 synthetic I had in there! Lots of surprises in the paper. Read and make up your own mind but to me the methodology is top notch.
|Nov 24th, 2014 6:12 pm|
Yep, I'm hearing you.
And probably one of the last things to ever be made here, at the rate we're loosing industries and skills
The car manufacturers have had the skids put well and truly under them since the 80's
I do support local where ever possible, if I think it's a better product or service
However, in the case of the oil (as previously stated) I can run this stuff I'm currently using for 6,000 kms and still have some reserve capacity left, as opposed to other oils that are the same viscosity as it's poured fresh out of the new bottle(only it's cleaner).
|Nov 24th, 2014 3:52 am|
Originally Posted by Dirt View Post
|Nov 23rd, 2014 11:58 pm|
Originally Posted by Popinfresh View Post
Mobil 1 has been used as factory fills in a lot of vehicles for years.
And it was always primarily a Group IV(PAO) synthetic oil, and as such widely regarded in some ways to be an industry standard.
|Nov 23rd, 2014 11:52 pm|
Yes I know.
Maybe one day I'll get around to trying them out
For now I'll just stick to what's working well until something changes for the worse with it.
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