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  Topic Review (Newest First)
Dec 12th, 2017 9:27 am
ducvet
Quote:
I donít think the spacers will do much of anything unless they are installed between the cap and bolt.
Not between the bolt and cap but between the cap and post
Dec 12th, 2017 8:29 am
duc96cr I donít think the spacers will do much of anything unless they are installed between the cap and bolt.
Dec 12th, 2017 2:52 am
Punch
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradblack View Post
with the 1098 the caps had a lot less offset, so they're probably that style for across the range fitment, and spacers to suit. might need to make sure they aren't coil binding without spacers in an older application. i had to fit them to something someone bought in i recall.
This and the posts by Hejira 858, Duckman and Ducvet make sense.
For some unknown reason apart from alcohol and or lack of thinking logically I did not consider how the shimming would function.

The "pretty" gold caps I removed are quite a lot deeper than the Ducabike caps.
Now to try to remember where the OEM caps are to compare.
Dec 11th, 2017 2:50 pm
bradblack with the 1098 the caps had a lot less offset, so they're probably that style for across the range fitment, and spacers to suit. might need to make sure they aren't coil binding without spacers in an older application. i had to fit them to something someone bought in i recall.
Dec 11th, 2017 11:44 am
hejira 858 If you choose to fit the spacers under the caps, it would be prudent to check clearance between the outer edge(s) of the caps, and the inside of the cover - I know there's not a lot of clearance between the two, a and that 2mm spacer might take it all.

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Dec 11th, 2017 9:48 am
DuckMan
Need help picking a clutch kit

Bingo. Duckvet figgered it out.


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Dec 11th, 2017 9:34 am
ducvet It looks to me from the instruction picture the spacers are added to lower the preload on the springs by adding distance from the pressure plate and spring cup. The first clue was that the street bikes (hyper and monster) used them but NOT the superbike.

I would guess they simply push the spring cups out away from the bike and lower preload. This would give you less clamping force which may be acceptable on a dry clutch bike with under 100hp as well as a easier initial clutch pull. It does not change the spring rate but lowers the force needed to get the springs compressed so easier initial pull but equal strength to hold compressed.

They should as the pictures show go between the spring cup (small end) and the posts. With or without them the clutch should work it will only effect pull strength initially.
Dec 9th, 2017 10:25 pm
Punch Thanks everyone.

All good now and excluded the "shims"

I did not have a low range torque wrench and all mates were out.

As an interim I used luggage scales and calculated the kg required at 9.7cm on my Allen (hex) key to equal the nm required torque.

Now need to fit the new speedo drive and cable and go for a test ride.
Dec 9th, 2017 7:09 pm
Punch
Quote:
Originally Posted by spacey View Post
No actual knowledge of the issue, but perhaps the washer/shims are supposed to go on the bolt head side of the spring cap? Would they fit in the indentation of the spring cap? Obviously this isn't what the picture shows. Otherwise I was going to suggest what Duck Man already did. Final thought is, aren't you installing this in your Supersport not a Monster? Maybe I'm stating the obvious, but the paper doesn't give specific instructions for a SS.
The washers do not fit into the caps.

SS900 and M900 engine are basically the same.

All stock clutch components are the same.

Thanks though.
Dec 9th, 2017 7:05 pm
Punch Preload was my assumption as well.

Spring ID is the same both ends, so the washer slides straight through.

Also, the washer OD would be a very tight fit into the pressure plate hole that the drum posts fit
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