Hi All,
I just finished installing the ducabike hydraulic clutch conversion kit on my 2017 Hyper SP.
https://ducabikedirect.com/collecti...ducts/afi06-kit-hydraulic-clutch-hyper-sp-939
This is the most ambitious mod project i've taken on.
Like most Italian mods, instructions are sparse (usually say 'have a qualified mechanic install' here and there)
A couple of obstacles that I hit, that I thought i'd share.
1) removing the clutch cover
I googled all over the place, got various tips here and there.
A gasket isn't used. liquid gasket Threebond 1215 is, and it really does its job. that thing will not come off easy.
Videos i found showed banging on the sides of the clutch cover. Not a good idea. There's a bushing that you might damage if doing so. (see the 5th pic attached)
Here's what worked for me. Obviously oil is drained at this point.
Heat. I attached my heat gun with zip ties to point it into the oil filter hole (cap removed). This allowed to get the whole assembly good and hot. This will sound crazy, but it took about 30 minutes with the heat gun running to get it hot enough to loosen up the three bond enough.
Using a putty knife, I was able to tap into the seam between the clutch cover and the engine, and loosen up the three bond and get the cover off.
2) getting the clutch plates back in.
This really drove me crazy. when removing the pressure plate initially, pay close attention to the way things look (I didn't, i was too excited about getting the clutch cover off , before removing the pressure plate.
When putting the plates back in, note that the outer steel gear is different (bigger) than the rest. (I'm skipping some steps here, had to install push rod adapter into bearings). It's critical that you have the gears/plates in the basket flush, and also the one larger steel gear in the teeth on the pressure plate. Here's the trick. at this point, you have to push the pressure plate in before starting the three screws. When pushing it in, based on the mechanism, it will rotate a few degrees. Hold it in, then start the screws.
3) the push rod is rounded on one end, flat on the other. Instructions don't say which way it should go. I emailed Ducabike (their instructions are lacking, but they are very responsive and helpful), and they advised that the rounded end goes into the slave cylinder.
4) it's also not totally clear on which if any ball bearings to use. you do need to put a single ball bearing into the rod adapter.
Most of this probably won't make sense without getting into the install details. I groped around on the web while trying to figure some of this out, so i thought i'd add some notes that might help others.
End result? It's sweet. Seems like clutch distance is half of what it was with the cable, and pull effort seems to be about 1/3 of what it was.
feel free to pm if questions come up.
I just finished installing the ducabike hydraulic clutch conversion kit on my 2017 Hyper SP.
https://ducabikedirect.com/collecti...ducts/afi06-kit-hydraulic-clutch-hyper-sp-939
This is the most ambitious mod project i've taken on.
Like most Italian mods, instructions are sparse (usually say 'have a qualified mechanic install' here and there)
A couple of obstacles that I hit, that I thought i'd share.
1) removing the clutch cover
I googled all over the place, got various tips here and there.
A gasket isn't used. liquid gasket Threebond 1215 is, and it really does its job. that thing will not come off easy.
Videos i found showed banging on the sides of the clutch cover. Not a good idea. There's a bushing that you might damage if doing so. (see the 5th pic attached)
Here's what worked for me. Obviously oil is drained at this point.
Heat. I attached my heat gun with zip ties to point it into the oil filter hole (cap removed). This allowed to get the whole assembly good and hot. This will sound crazy, but it took about 30 minutes with the heat gun running to get it hot enough to loosen up the three bond enough.
Using a putty knife, I was able to tap into the seam between the clutch cover and the engine, and loosen up the three bond and get the cover off.
2) getting the clutch plates back in.
This really drove me crazy. when removing the pressure plate initially, pay close attention to the way things look (I didn't, i was too excited about getting the clutch cover off , before removing the pressure plate.
When putting the plates back in, note that the outer steel gear is different (bigger) than the rest. (I'm skipping some steps here, had to install push rod adapter into bearings). It's critical that you have the gears/plates in the basket flush, and also the one larger steel gear in the teeth on the pressure plate. Here's the trick. at this point, you have to push the pressure plate in before starting the three screws. When pushing it in, based on the mechanism, it will rotate a few degrees. Hold it in, then start the screws.
3) the push rod is rounded on one end, flat on the other. Instructions don't say which way it should go. I emailed Ducabike (their instructions are lacking, but they are very responsive and helpful), and they advised that the rounded end goes into the slave cylinder.
4) it's also not totally clear on which if any ball bearings to use. you do need to put a single ball bearing into the rod adapter.
Most of this probably won't make sense without getting into the install details. I groped around on the web while trying to figure some of this out, so i thought i'd add some notes that might help others.
End result? It's sweet. Seems like clutch distance is half of what it was with the cable, and pull effort seems to be about 1/3 of what it was.
feel free to pm if questions come up.